1997 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4 manual

First of all the starter works intermittently. I push start it with the manual trans when it doesnt work. But I have borrowed a trailer and cant push start that so I need it fixed this week.

When I turn the key the fender solonoid clicks. Nothing more.

I tried using a jumper clamp across the fender sol's large copper terminals with ignition run position. Nothing

Tried Connecting battery pos to one and then the other large copper terminal of fender sol. Nothing.

I am curious to the function of the terminals on the starter mounted solonoid. Perhaps this truck has been worked on and does not need 2? The starter solonoid has 2 large copper connectors and a small blade connector. What are the functions of these terminals and are the two large ones backwards compatible (the solonoid can be installed 180 opposed from its current position too.)

I have a new fender solonoid and new starter mounted solonoid.
I pulled the starter off and checked through the motor thouroghly. The motor spins with power and all interenals are functional perfectly and are well greased.

Thank you.

 

While you have the starter off run it to the auto parts store. They'll test it for free. If you feel confident enough connect some jumpers to your battery and tap the other ends onto the posts on the starter. I'll bet that the starter is your problem.

I dont know how you would have replaced the starter solenoid on the starter since its built into it. Or at least it is on my 94.

 

The solenoid is just a big switch, really. The small wire is attached to your key. One of the large wires goes directly to your battery, the other goes to the starter.

When you turn the key to the start position, you send 12V to the small wire. The solenoid is now energized, turns into an electromagnet and a little plunger inside the solenoid moves(that is the clicking sound you hear). The plunger contacts the bottom sides of the 2 large studs(inside the solenoid) completing the circuit. You now should have a complete circuit from the battery to the starter. The starter should turn. Releasing the key cuts the voltage to the small terminal, the solenoid deenergizes, and the plunger releases, opening the circuit.


You mentioned jumping the two large terminals on the the solenoid. I have also done this on many vehicles. The best way to do this is with a screwdriver or two. If you can, just use one screwdriver to touch both terminals at the same time. New solenoids have a piece of plastic which will prevent this; If that's the case, you will need two screwdrivers- put the points of the screwdrivers on the terminals then work them in such a way that you can touch the screwdrivers together at the same time. This will complete the circuit , and the starter should spin. It is possible the truck will start, so use precautions.

If you still have no spark, you likely have a bad starter, but you need to rule out a bad solenoid to starter cable. To rule that out, you need to run a heavy jumper cable from the positive side of the battery directly to the big lug on the starter. If this does not spin the starter, replace the starter, it's shot.

good luck -jim

 

One problem is that the factory usually uses steel nuts on these copper studs to handle hundreds of amps of current. They rust a little, cause a bad connection and often heat up enough to burn the bakelite underneath. I used to replace the nuts with brass, but the new starters use metric threads and it's hard to find metric brass nuts.

 

The problem was the starter mounted solonoid. I bench tested the origional once I traced all the wires and figured out what did what. It would only function if pressed in by hand half way. The new solonoid I installed upside down which promptly fried the internals which is why it did not work either. It would be nice if Ford had put a directional marker on these items like 2 different sized bolts to hold it on. Not to put Ford down to much since this is only my first ford but it certainly isn't as idiot proof as the old chevy starter.

I have cetainly checked the entire solonoid and it is round with two semetricly placed bolts no markings only the blade connecter is set to one side toward the engine. Now I know. And so does anyone else who reads this hehe. Have a good day all and thank you for your help.

 

Sorry you had to learn that the hard way, but thanks for warning us of that danger. It sure seems like a bad design to be destructively reversible like that. These new solenoids are also crimped on so they can't be taken apart to reverse(!) the contact studs when they wear down or resolder an overheated connection.