Fellows, I've run into a problem with the conversion of my '65 F100 2WD to disc brakes from a 1973 F100. After mounting the spindles with new kingpins, I see that the stop bolt on the axles don't hit the proper points on the new spindle assemblies and actually jam the spindle assemblies when I turn the wheels all the way in either direction. The square-headed stop bolts go slightly over the points on the spindles that they should be hitting against, as if the spindle assemblies are riding too low on the kingpins, causing a misalignment of the stop bolts and the points on the spindle bodies that should make direct contact. I think I have everything properly mounted on the new king pin setups. Have any of you run into this problem? Any info would surely be appreciated!!!

 

I urge the Spindle out swap proponents to start a list of the issues that don't come up with a complete I-beam swaps.

It may or may not take a little more effort to swap out the I-beams, and you bring in matched set parts that don't have slight design differences.

I'm sorry but I don't have an answer for your question.

John

 

Thank you, Sir, for your comments. I think it's a good idea to set up a section for abnormalities in the disc brake swapout procedures. The problem I've encountered has never been mentioned in any of the threads I've read and has the potential to be deadly if the wheels should jam unexpectedly in a turned position. I'm such an amateur at the swap that I might just put the parts together without even knowing that I might be commmitting suicide. Perhaps someone such as yourself who has many years of experience in using this website could set up an area for such problems. Thanks, Mike M.

 

I seem to remember that the kingpins are different and that you need purchase ones to match the I-beam year rather than the spindle year. II've book marked a bunch of swap article and will need to go back to confirm my previous sentence. What year did you buy the kingpins for?

 

Hello, Carras ----- I bought the kingpins to fit the 1965 axles. I did a lot of reading before buying them and all the articles I read in this forum and others said the same thing you are saying, to buy the kingpins to match the year model of the I-Beams, not the spindles year model. Also, the articles said that there is a difference in the '65 axles from all other years, but, I don't know what that difference is. If the difference creates a problem like I've encountered, I would have expected to find someone reporting it in some of the forums. Thanks for taking the time to help me! Mike M.

 

Im doing that for my high school senior project on a 66 and i found a walk through on a sertain web page. it covers swaps from 61-66. but they had a section in there about modifications 65-66. here it is copied and pasted. lol i think i might have to return the king pins i got and get the ones mentioned below.

Special Notes For 1965-1966 Modifications

This section By Dennis K. Austin


Things to buy;

SPINDLES, ROTORS, & CALIPERS

Spindles from a junk yard. Take the spindles from a '74 F-100/150 truck. Try to get a set of spindles with good rotors and calipers. The rust that may be on the rotors will clean up with emory cloth. The calipers you will trade in for new ones as instructed on the main page.

The junk yard may cut the old king pins with a torch. So, the donor king pins can not be used for anything and you do not need them anyway. If they do use a torch make sure that they did not cut into the king pin holes in the spindles. Check before you buy them. Stick you finger in there and feel around. If they have major cuts in there from the torch then the spindles are useless. If there is a little scoring then the plastic sleeves, from the new king pin kit, will work okay if you clean this up with emory cloth. I have been told that if there is any scoring or cutting into these holes the brass bushing can not be used.

STEERING LINKAGE

The '65 steering linkage will probably be worn out. Its over 30 years old. A good way to tell is to see if your linkage "ball joints" flop about. You will see this when you pull the old spindles off. If they lay over to one side and you can easily push them to the opposite side then they are shot. Replace it with a new steering linkage kit for a '74 model. That way you do not have to shave 1/8" off the spindles as mentioned on the main page. The linkage kit will fit perfectly to the spindles and to the '65 steering arm. A kit comes complete with crown nuts, cotter pins, etc. This kit comes in three boxes.

KING PINS

The new king pins should be for a '65 model truck. That is MOOG part #8496N. These will line up perfectly with the new spindles and the I-Beams. This kit comes complete with everything new. You will not need anything from the old king pins. Follow the instructions on the main page.

 

Wyatt66F100, Thank you for your input! Maybe we can figure out what the problem is soon! MM.

 

It's been number of years since making the upgrade on my 65, fortunately took necessary components from donor 76. Intended using newly purchased 65 tie rods but if recall found they were not interchangeable and ended up using from donor. Also, had to use donor pitman arm.

dave

 

Dave, Thanks for your input on this matter! I, too, seem to have used the right parts for the brake conversions (according to all the articles), so its a mystery to me why there is an obvious problem with the stop bolt not hitting the correct point on the body of the spindle. Hopefully, others will read these threads and can point out what's going wrong with the installation of the disc brakes. As many of these conversions have been done, surely I' m not the only one who has seen this problem before. Thanks again, Dave! MM.

 

Mike M.
Welcome to (FTE)

If I'm not mistaken I think the stops on the 73-79 spindles are engineered (designed) into the spindles.

Wally Womack

 

Mike, could the parts store have given you the wrong kingpins? Do you have the old ones to match against. Seems to me that you've covered the bases