BW 1356 (E) Rebuild
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BW 1356 (E) Rebuild
Ok I know everyone will say that I should ditch the electric 1356 in favor of the manual one, however its hard to find all the linkage and stuff to do the swap these days.
It about time for me to do a rebuild on the t-case and I was wondering if besides the electrical issues if there are really any internal weaknesses in the electronic version compared to the manual one.
I'm an electronics tech so im not really too conserned with the reliability of the push button system. I am wondering if its any harder to rebuild the electric model, and if there are any things to look out for.
It about time for me to do a rebuild on the t-case and I was wondering if besides the electrical issues if there are really any internal weaknesses in the electronic version compared to the manual one.
I'm an electronics tech so im not really too conserned with the reliability of the push button system. I am wondering if its any harder to rebuild the electric model, and if there are any things to look out for.
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Go to go kart shop or website get some heim ends and threaded rod and you got all the linkage you could need, a quick jog to the boneyard for a stick with a 4x **** and your set. As long as you follow the old saying, Use it or lose it the electric should be alright. If you have larger tires that is a special operating condition so change the fluid more frequently!! every payday when you go to the bank throw it into 4wd while waiting in line if you have manual hubs you can leave them disengaged, then when you get to your street put it into 4 lo that way it is getting used regular.
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The only difference between the electric shift and manual is the shaft that moves the shift rod all the other parts are the same. The are real easy to rebuild and the weakest part is the pads on the shift fork. A good rebuild kit will have 1 input seal 2 output seals 1 shift shaft seal for manual and 1 for electric 2 spine seals the adaptor seal and sift fork pads. you will some silicone for the case halves and tail housing, I prefer the black or ultra black. The blue doesn’t last as long.
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I think i'm just going to stick with the electronic case then. I've never had any problems with the electronics, and the motor is easy enough to change out if nessecary. I've never rebuilt a transfercase before, is it really that easy? Is it a project that can be done in a days time if planned properly? Also are there any special tools besides the torq bits required?
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From: St Louis
If the shift fork pads are worn you may have to buy a new shift fork if it is the intergrated pad/fork. Ford does still sell them but you need to know more info on the case for them to order them. If you go to a transmission shop you should be able to get your forks there or a salvage yard that may rebuild them onsite as well. Otherwise, the cases suffer the same internal issues, chain slap on the inside of the case for a bad chain, sloppy planetary set for a bad inner bearing surface between the input and the planetary reduction, notched case where the oil pump retainer sits, and etc.
The shift cam can get flat spots worn on it in the electric case. Take careful inventory of it to make sure it isn't bad enough to cause poor shift quality.
The shift cam can get flat spots worn on it in the electric case. Take careful inventory of it to make sure it isn't bad enough to cause poor shift quality.
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You will need a pair of large snap ring pliers, The torx bit should be a T500 same as your seat belts mounting bolts, I don‘t remember the size of the nuts on the output shafts I think it‘s 1 ¼ . It should only take about 4hrs. To do, just find were you can get the parts you might need first then open it up. It helps if you have something to hold it input shaft facing down so you can unstack it and then restack it with the new parts. Just make sure you replace the pump hose in the case they like to brake then you run out of lube. You can use a piece of trans cooler line just get the right size.
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Getting all the parts seems to be the biggest problem. Of all the kits i've seen, none come with everything you might need. My t-case has 205,000 miles on it and has not been rebuilt so far as i know. I plan on replacinging all wearable parts in it whether they need it or not. Looks like i'm going to have to order about 3 different rebuild kits to get the job done.
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Here is a supplier for transmission and transfer case parts. They are a wholesaler but the one by me will sell to anyone with money. http://axiom.com/atc/site/index.aspx
if you get some one who will the part number was #K100992 this is suppose to have the chain in it but no forks.
There is also Natpro http://www.natpronet.com/ it's a new page but it has phone #s here is there part # rebuilder kit K2300B,
Chain 21888d , Range Fork 301968, manual TM1356 but they don't have the in-out fork, that is the one with replaceable pads(in the kit) as long as the old ones have not worn out to far
if you get some one who will the part number was #K100992 this is suppose to have the chain in it but no forks.
There is also Natpro http://www.natpronet.com/ it's a new page but it has phone #s here is there part # rebuilder kit K2300B,
Chain 21888d , Range Fork 301968, manual TM1356 but they don't have the in-out fork, that is the one with replaceable pads(in the kit) as long as the old ones have not worn out to far
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