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Well, I failed the Seattle emissions test. The one I have to do to get the truck titled to me. But, they only give you fifteen days to re-title it! Commie *******s.....Some people WORK during the week around here, not many, but some.
So, the failure was only about 50 ppm over the limit at idle on the HC, everything else was OK.
Looking for input for those who have suggestions. Here is a shorthand version of the situation:
Got water out of tanks
Engine still seems to be skipping, though not very bad
Got HEET, Techron FI cleaner, and Marvel Mystery in tank
could not find any obvious vacuum leaks
Could be a bad plug or wire
maybe an O2 sensor? I don't know.
Trying to avoid spending the $150 on labor alone at a certified shop for the waiver.
My options are:
Go to certified shop, have them scratch heads for two hours and take reciept to the testing station for waiver = $150
Change plugs, maybe wires too, run some seafoam, hope it passes
Fill front tank with E85 and run the test with that, hope it passes
Go to the guy in the van set up across from the testing station who advertises "guaranteed pass" for $39.95 and up.
or......
Use the advice and wisdom from members on the forum to kick this problem's ***.
Am tempted to try pulling the plugs and replacing. Any suggestions on what type of plug would work best with an EFI '87 f-150 302? Any suggestions at all about emissions? Pretty desperate here.
Do they sell the stuff at auto supply stores there that says garanteed to pass emissions test, it is a fuel additive. Also change your oil, tune it up, and I would use regular unleaded to take the test.
In Ontario we're lucky, any vehicle 20 years or older does not need to go through emissions. Buy a code reader at your local NAPA store, they will point you in the right direction. Like the other guy said, clean your throttle body and IAC with some throttle body cleaner. Check your plugs, if you need to change them the motocraft platinums are the way to go, more expensive but work well. Check the wires by spraying water under the hood with a squirt bottle, do it at night so you can see and hear the results. Same with wires change them with motocraft. Put a new cap and rotor on it. Fuel filters are cheap change it. Air filters are cheap too check it. PCV valve change it.
First off what are all of your numbers, even the ones you passed on. This helps with diag. the problem. Second, yes the cat could be bad. The cat. conv. cleans up the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide NOT the NOx's, thats what the EGR valve does. Do not run E85 in the truck as it will destroy any rubber components in the fuel system and completely strip your metal parts of the fuel system clean and probably plug your fuel filter. I would change your oil before you go in again and take the truck out for a long drive on the open road to get the cat. good and hot and cleared out before you go in. Second after the long drive go straight to the emissions tester and don't shut the truck off so the cat stays hot. Most emissions guys don't properly warm up the cat before the test.
You answered the question right there the hour wait at idle!!! I would change the oil any way and do the long drive thing. If they have you wait like that you are better off shutting the truck off. Two cats, if it is OBDII truck normal if not yeah probably a cali. truck.
First off what are all of your numbers, even the ones you passed on. This helps with diag. the problem. Second, yes the cat could be bad. The cat. conv. cleans up the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide NOT the NOx's, thats what the EGR valve does. Do not run E85 in the truck as it will destroy any rubber components in the fuel system and completely strip your metal parts of the fuel system clean and probably plug your fuel filter. I would change your oil before you go in again and take the truck out for a long drive on the open road to get the cat. good and hot and cleared out before you go in. Second after the long drive go straight to the emissions tester and don't shut the truck off so the cat stays hot. Most emissions guys don't properly warm up the cat before the test.
"The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions"
-From How Stuff Works Website
The second stage cleans up HC and CO. You would be surprised at how much the converter actually DOES affect NOx. There is alot of other components I would check before replacing the cat due to bad HC levels, but that's just me.
Do a tune up first of all. Make sure that your timing is correct. New plugs, wires if they are bad and cap/rotor. Change your fuel filter and air filter. Never hurts to change the oil either. Get the basics taken care of before you worry about anything else. I would also run a can of seafoam through the intake as well.
My paps used to do a trick to pas Las Vegas emmisions. Run your tank till ur almost empty, run either CemChem from the gallon or Denatured Alcohol, only put enough in it to make it to the test and back to a fuel station, also run sea foam through the beast in your fuel and in you vacume line to the brake booster. Also to help things out change your oil out for some ATF for about 1 hour, this will clean it out and recondition you seals. Make sure to change back to regular oil before you go driving around, (ATF gets really thin inviscosity). Well, thats I've got besides whats already been stated above, (ie. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, air filter, cats...bla bla bla) Good Luck
Thanks for the help y'all. I gave her a tune up with new plugs and wires and it made a big difference. Lot's of other things too. Going in tomorrow for the re-test with fingers crossed!