Finally got it done.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
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From: Missouri
Finally got it done.
FEina52F1 here is how I did my rocker adjustment: I had a buddy rocker the rocker back all the way and I tightened it to a .020 gap between the rocker tip and the valve stem. That is the way Steve Christ said to do. Are you saying to adjust it your way with the lifter totally compressed or all the way up with no pressure on the lifer? I have heard of doing it your way several other times but I'm not sure if the lifter was flattened. I would assume you mean with the lifter expanded otherwise I would think it would never let the valve shut. I'm sure hyd. lifters have changed a little since he wrote his book.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 298
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From: Oztralia
Finally got it done.
So we are talking hydraulics (Yes ?)
You have to be careful you are geting the back of the lobe with none stock cams. The service manuals describe a way to get all valve set in less than 2 turns of the engine - but it can cause problems on bigs cams
With hydraluics what the aim is:is to get the only a few thou compression on the lifter. So if the float and pump up there can be no damage (piston and valve being in the same place) but also they will come down quick when you bring the rpm down. You should be sure that you have good anti-pump (strong clips) lifters.
With and FE it is hard as it is difficult to see when the lifter piston is just moving away from the clip but it can be done. So after the piston moves about 20 thou preload is good. You can do it cold as it doesnt matter about heat as all it produces it more preload.
If you have non-adustables tha shimming the rocker stands(evenly) can help but make sure all lifters have preload and that there arent any bottomed out hopefully the machinist set the valves at the same height.
Lifters havent changed much at all.
The tolerance have got smaller - which in an FE can be a problem as there is even less room for bubbles to blead out, (other engines pass oil thru the lifter to the rockers - thus the lfters can bleed quicklly)
Are your noises more towards an end ?
There are the anti-pump ups ie stronger clips and the
Quick Bleed downs (rhoads) that can slightly modify a cam profile with speed at the sacrifice of Noise.
Roller and Mushroom faced
You have to be careful you are geting the back of the lobe with none stock cams. The service manuals describe a way to get all valve set in less than 2 turns of the engine - but it can cause problems on bigs cams
With hydraluics what the aim is:is to get the only a few thou compression on the lifter. So if the float and pump up there can be no damage (piston and valve being in the same place) but also they will come down quick when you bring the rpm down. You should be sure that you have good anti-pump (strong clips) lifters.
With and FE it is hard as it is difficult to see when the lifter piston is just moving away from the clip but it can be done. So after the piston moves about 20 thou preload is good. You can do it cold as it doesnt matter about heat as all it produces it more preload.
If you have non-adustables tha shimming the rocker stands(evenly) can help but make sure all lifters have preload and that there arent any bottomed out hopefully the machinist set the valves at the same height.
Lifters havent changed much at all.
The tolerance have got smaller - which in an FE can be a problem as there is even less room for bubbles to blead out, (other engines pass oil thru the lifter to the rockers - thus the lfters can bleed quicklly)
Are your noises more towards an end ?
There are the anti-pump ups ie stronger clips and the
Quick Bleed downs (rhoads) that can slightly modify a cam profile with speed at the sacrifice of Noise.
Roller and Mushroom faced
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