Advice about intake gasket replacement..
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From: Orangeville, Ontario
Advice about intake gasket replacement..
Basically all I'm asking is how much of a mess I'll end up making because my trucks in the garage for the winter and I don't want to **** my mom off too much, ha. I'm assuming I should probably drain the antifreeze for this?
Obviously I've gotta torque everything correctly on re-install.. use rtv instead of those crap gaskets on the ends.. What kind of gaskets do you guys prefer to use? Fel-pro alright?
Just making sure I'm covering everything here guys, thanks in advance.
P.s. I'm going to remove my air pump and associated piping. What kind of plugs do I need for the rear of the heads?
Obviously I've gotta torque everything correctly on re-install.. use rtv instead of those crap gaskets on the ends.. What kind of gaskets do you guys prefer to use? Fel-pro alright?
Just making sure I'm covering everything here guys, thanks in advance.
P.s. I'm going to remove my air pump and associated piping. What kind of plugs do I need for the rear of the heads?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Venetia, PA
Im guessing you are doing the lower intake manifold too. The upper is pretty much unbolt, peel off the gasket, replace and bolt back in plus removing the TB, vacuum lines, coolant lines ect. The lower shouldnt be too hard once you get the upper off. Just make sure you dont drop too much crap down into the heads. Fel Pro gaskets should be good, just make sure to do a neat job with the RTV or you will have gobs of it everywhere. Try and get the RTV to stand up tall on the ends rather than just putting down a nice thick, wide bead. That way you will still get a good seal, but all the excess wont smoosh out the sides, it will get pushed down and fill all the gaps. Good luck and take your time, because doing it once slowly is faster than doing it twice quickly!
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Yeah, I forgot to specify. Doing the whole top-end beside the heads pretty much. How do I take out the distributor without messing up my timing too much? Is it just a matter of popping it out or is there anything else I have to worry about.. never done it so.. thanks!
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What.. you guys don't like the cork gaskets for the front and back of the intake? Here's the trick, clean the block mating surfaces completely free of oil, dry it, and glue the front and rear cork gaskets to the block with contact cement. Use RTV between the cork and lower intake. No leaks, and better yet, no frustration.
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From: Lafayette, IN
Originally Posted by TheRoadVirus
Yeah, I forgot to specify. Doing the whole top-end beside the heads pretty much. How do I take out the distributor without messing up my timing too much? Is it just a matter of popping it out or is there anything else I have to worry about.. never done it so.. thanks!
Jason
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From: Orangeville, Ontario
I can get a timing light no problem, I've just never done it before and was thinking it's bad to be off to much.. I just want to get it close? and then minor adjustment, I guess.
Best to drain the anti-freeze, right?
Best to drain the anti-freeze, right?
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Post Fiend
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From: Lafayette, IN
You don't have to drain ALL the antifreeze, just enough to get it below the level of the intake manifold. Heater hoses don't always drain all the way, so they can cause a bit of a mess if you bump them while the intake is off. Distributors can be kind of tricky, as they sometimes are stubborn in coming out, and then when they do (whether stuck or not), the shaft will rotate about a quarter-turn. As long as you put it back in the same way it came out, and don't turn the shaft while it's out, you have a decent chance of it going back in correctly. Sometimes you'll end up a tooth off and have to pull it and re-install it again.
Your biggest risk is breaking the intake bolts, particularly the front 2 and back 2, as the holes they go in pass all the way through ears on the block, so junk gets up into the boltholes, making them more likely to snap. I broke 2 the last time I had an intake manifold off...had to drill 'em out and re-tap.
Jason
Your biggest risk is breaking the intake bolts, particularly the front 2 and back 2, as the holes they go in pass all the way through ears on the block, so junk gets up into the boltholes, making them more likely to snap. I broke 2 the last time I had an intake manifold off...had to drill 'em out and re-tap.
Jason
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You probably won't need to remove the distributor. I can pull the intake off of my 'Stang with a 302 with it in. I actually did my head swap without removing the dizzy. Its a snap to remove the distributor, but it can be done without pulling it.
Ditto on the intake bolts. The rears weren't bad for me, but I did break the front drivers side. If you have sharp drill bits and a punch, you might be able to drill it out yourself. Make SURE that you start drilling straight though. Get a 7/16" (I think thats what it is) tap or thread chaser and clean up all of the bolt holes and threads. I think that the end ones are the biggest pain as they are closest to the water jacket and they are exposed to open air rather than the middle ones that go into the valley. Good luck!
Ditto on the intake bolts. The rears weren't bad for me, but I did break the front drivers side. If you have sharp drill bits and a punch, you might be able to drill it out yourself. Make SURE that you start drilling straight though. Get a 7/16" (I think thats what it is) tap or thread chaser and clean up all of the bolt holes and threads. I think that the end ones are the biggest pain as they are closest to the water jacket and they are exposed to open air rather than the middle ones that go into the valley. Good luck!
Last edited by MisterCMK; Oct 4, 2007 at 01:07 PM.
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Originally Posted by TheRoadVirus
Yeah, I forgot to specify. Doing the whole top-end beside the heads pretty much. How do I take out the distributor without messing up my timing too much? Is it just a matter of popping it out or is there anything else I have to worry about.. never done it so.. thanks!
http://www.performancedistributors.com/technical.htm
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Thanks, perf.
As far as those front and rear intake bolts go, hopefully it won't be too bad because this isn't the original engine as far as I know (where are the block casting numbers on a 5.0?) and it hasn't been in here too long. But I'm praying I don't break them anyways. But hey, more learning experience if I do, right? I don't have any sort of time constraint on this work.. deadline is april. So that's alright
.
Thanks for the responses guys. Don't know what I would do without this site to fall back on.
As far as those front and rear intake bolts go, hopefully it won't be too bad because this isn't the original engine as far as I know (where are the block casting numbers on a 5.0?) and it hasn't been in here too long. But I'm praying I don't break them anyways. But hey, more learning experience if I do, right? I don't have any sort of time constraint on this work.. deadline is april. So that's alright
. Thanks for the responses guys. Don't know what I would do without this site to fall back on.
Gasket match it at the least
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Well, the thing is.. the reason the intake is coming off is because there's a leak down the front of the engine and that looks like where it's coming from. But it very well could just be where the upper coolant hose meets the block. The upper-plenum is coming off either way for a good cleaning and my MAF installation.
Last edited by TheRoadVirus; Oct 4, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
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