When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am going to put my BTS-VB in this weekend, and after reading a few posts I am confused. I assumed it would be easier to change the tranny fluid while I have the pan off. I have read some posts that say you shouldn't change the tranny fluid until you have X number of miles. My truck is an '03 f-250 with 90k miles, it is 4x4 CC Long Bed. So my questions are: Do I change the tranny fluid at the same time I do the VB? Do I flush the entire tranny with the TC? What tranny fluid do I use to refill? If I should wait until X number of miles what is the magic number? I also bought the new drain plug with the spot for the tranny gauge that i am going to install while I have the pan off. Any suggestions with this or other mods to do while the tranny pan is off please suggest. On a side note i am also installing my gauge pod with tranny, boost and pyro gauges. I am hoping to use the tranny drain plug for the tranny gauge, the AIH delete with the boost fitting for the boost gauge, and am not sure where to put the pyro, I think I ordered the pre-turbo pyro gauge kit. If anyone has any suggestions, comments, or concerns with this install please give your input. And last but not least, i will be installing my train horns this weekend. I have the Kong Mk II with 5 gal tank and Viair 380 compressor. I plan to mount the horns on one frame rail with the tank on the other. Again anyone with any suggestions, comments or concerns, please feel free to reply. I am looking fo any advice i can get. Thanks in advance.
Okay, you pretty much have to change the fluid to do the VB unless you catch the old stuff in a really clean container and can easily pump it back in. If you haven't done the regular 30k tranny services, I'd go ahead and do it anyway. You can use Mercon V (Ford has okay'ed the Merc V because they quit making Merc III), or go full syn like Mobil1 ATF, Royal Purple, or Shaffers. Those are obviously much more $$$. Up to you.
Now, what I would do is drain the pan and install your new VB. Reinstall pan. Fill with like 6 quarts and have a helper start the engine with the return line from the cooler taken loose from the tranny and plumbed to your dump pan with a short piece of clear tubing. When the fluid starts to sputter, have helper stop engine and add ~6 more quarts... Repeat. When you see nice, fresh red fluid, stop engine again and re-attach cooler line to tranny and top off. Good procedure can be found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...nsmission.html
About the gauges, you have the boost pickup under control. The tranny gauge I'm confused about. There is a test port on the driver's side of the tranny just above the pan. Remove the plug and the sensor should fit right in place. No screwing around with a drain adapter. For the pyro, you have to drill the exhaust manifold or up-pipe and tap the hole if you have the threaded sensor, or simply wrap & tighten the clamp if you have the non-threaded type. Should be in the directions. Here is how I mounted mine:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/Accessories/BM80250.asp Here is a link to the tranny drain plug adapter. I didn't know there was already an easy spot to install the tranny gauge, so I will probably go the route you suggested. My next question is very newbish, but, I have never even payed attention to the tranny as far as drain options. Do I already have a drain plug? I just assumed there wasn't one, because the truck is a later year, and that I would have to be crafty when I took the pan off, then dump the fluid. I would much rather use the test port and not have to drill any holes in my pan. Also is there anything else I should do for the 30K tranny service? I am going to just go ahead and do it because I don't know what has been done to the truck as far as maintenance (Only had the truck for a few months). Thanks for the advice so far.
Yep. AFAIK, all of our trucks have a drain plug in the pan. What changes in mid to late '01 was the removal of the TC drain. But if you use the method described earlier, the TC drain isn't used anyway.
There is a difference with how the gauge reads vs. where you put the sensor, and I believe most (all?) of these gauges were designed to read the temp from that port, so I'd definitely use it. DM has a nice section showing how to install gauges -- check this page out. It shows the test port location (down at the bottom of the page): http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/PSD73gauge-p1.htm
The 30k service is usually just changing the fluid, so doing that when you install the new VB is about it. Other than the "optional" filter. I'd go ahead and get another filter since you're dropping the pan anyway.
I would change all the fluid and the filter, especially, if I wasn't aware of the maintenance schedule by the previous owner. I recently switched to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF after my transmission rebuild. It ran about ~$5.59 a quart. I have my trans temp sensor in the test port on the left side above the pan in front of the shift linkage. No need to drill any additional holes. Seems to very accurate in this location.
Right on guys, thanks for the advice! I am getting pretty excited about this weekend, even thought the weather forecast calls for a high of 48 degrees and snow. But I'll be damned if I let a little weather get in the way of my priorities. Yeah right, who am I kidding, I will definitely be in the shop with the heater on. Thanks again and if there is anything else I should know or do while I am doing this stuff please comment.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.