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I think I used a racheting box end wrench for that one ? Or was it a funky Torx head bolt ? Been awile. If it was the torx, I think I used a long 1/4" extension to reach it.
You need one of these. Darned if I can figure out who sells them though.
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For testing the injectors, you can improvise a tester with a fuel pump hooked up to the injector with flexible hose, and an electricity source with a push button (door bell) switch in the circuit. Place the injector in a jar and apply fuel and voltage, and watch the fuel spray pattern. A partially clogged injector will give a noticeable uneven pattern or a sickly single stream. The spray can be continued for a specified time and volume of output measured, and compared to the other injectors if desired.
This is best performed outdoors, and by someone who is confident of what he's doing, there are clearly some serious hazards. You can also clean injectors by hooking them up to the pressurized fuel backwards, which "reverse flushes" them.
Watch out while open air testing injectors, HYPODERMIC injection of fuel is not fun and you will DIE!! Be very careful doing this!! Wear gloves and eye protection!! What is the problem with the truck that makes you feel the injectors are bad?
I've had this truck for nearly a month and it has always pinged going up inclines. So I just let it go until I had time to do a full tune up and check the timing. Anyway, last weekend I was taking a load of cabinets up to my in-laws place and the pinging just stopped and then I noticed there was a loss of power. I pull off at the next exit and noticed it was sputtering/skipping like it wasnt running on all cylinders. So I put a new set of autolites plugs and wires on it with no difference in the way it runs. After a lot of thought on conversing with a few mechanics, we think injector(s) took a dump. This is why I am needing to remove the intake to get to the injectors on the passenger side of the motor. I'm wondering if the injectors are really the problem and if they can be taken somewhere to be tested?
First thing to check in that case is your plug wire routing. I had the same thing happan to me, and someone brought it up, so I checked it. It worked!!!! The sbf has two cyls on the same bank that fire in order. If those wires cross, you can get a cross fire and will cause that problem. There was a TSB about it, but I cant find it now.
I've had this truck for nearly a month and it has always pinged going up inclines. So I just let it go until I had time to do a full tune up and check the timing. Anyway, last weekend I was taking a load of cabinets up to my in-laws place and the pinging just stopped and then I noticed there was a loss of power. I pull off at the next exit and noticed it was sputtering/skipping like it wasnt running on all cylinders. So I put a new set of autolites plugs and wires on it with no difference in the way it runs. After a lot of thought on conversing with a few mechanics, we think injector(s) took a dump.
Have you done a compression check? Your description points a loss of compression due to damaged valves or a hole in a piston. The piston is usually the first to go because aluminum melts at a lower temperature than steel, and premature detonation(pinging) rapidly raises combustion temperaturs above what aluminum can handle. It's unlikely the pinging had anything to do with the injectors as well, more likely a vacuum leak, EGR leak, air injection system leak, or faulty sensor. A bad map or temperature sensor or any of these leaks could throw the system off enough to make the motor ping without throwing a code. Nice ehh.
If you haven't taken it apart already run 2 bottles of iso heet and 2 bottles of heet, You'd be suprised the things $6.00 can fix if there isn't a cel or any codes trying gas line dryer will save you some dough and time!! Water has high surface tension and the small openings in the injectors are easily blocked maybe you got one or two partially or totally blocked by water. I would check the knock sensor the wires inside it are very tiny and subject to corrosion and breaks, Put your multimeter on millivolts and connect it to the contacts and with a long narrow brass punch and hammer knock on the block next to the sensor, You should see a spike of voltage with each tap!! It is a piezo transducer they do fail occasionally!! Also at night get a spray bottle filled with water and spray down the wires from dist to spark plugs, start the truck turn off all light and check for sparks, If there is wire to wire or wire to metal sparks you need to reroute the wires or cover them in split loom, If you got sparks to low voltage wires that is very bad and needs to be fixed with the above measures!!
If the injectors were not supplying enough fuel, it could very well have burned one or more pistons from running lean. I've seen it before in these. What did the plugs look like ?
The plugs were all worn even and pretty clean. I am going to do a compression check next to see what that comes up with. BTW, this motor is just shy of 101k miles, and with the luck I've had with 302s, it would be a big surprise and disappointment if this one needs replaced. The 331 might be going in sooner than expected....