[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-02 AT 10:11 AM (EST)]I'm looking at an engine (1964 390 hipo) that is all there (minus h2o pump/ignition/carb) and has been rebuilt with no miles on it. It has been sitting for 30 years! That's right, it was rebuilt in 1970 and hasn't been touched since! I was told that it was opened up and there was no rust found and then re-oiled and closed. My question is what sort of inherent problems can I expect to encounter with an engine that has sat idle for that long? What can I look for? What sort of price is fair: do I treat it as if it were rebuilt recently or deduct some $$ since it has sat for so long? Any information is greatly appreciated!!

-Bryan

 

Bryan, that is a great question, and I think has a lot of variables. What is the guy askng for it?
http://www.clubfte.com/users/jowilker/USFlag.gif
John

jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group

In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

$1500

 

$1500

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-02 AT 01:17 PM (EST)]He's asking $1500...

...sorry about the multi-post.... stupid network!!!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-02 AT 01:27 PM (EST)] If there was no rust, the engine is probably OK, with a couple of exceptions.

1) Having sat so long, you may have some difficulty getting the rings to seal after the engine is installed and running. As with almost anything, they may have taken a set (formed to the size and shape of the cylinder at the position they are now sitting and lost some of their tensile strength). I have overcome this problem by doing something that makes most professional mechanics cringe; take the vehicle out and run it up as fast as it will run in first or second gear (do it only once). My ex-brother-in-law worked as a mechanic all his life (for companies such as Ford, Rambler, Jaguar, BMW, and Mercedes), and he would often do this very thing if the rings in a new overhaul were allowing oil to flow past into the combustion chamber. I never saw him blow an engine, and surprisingly enough, he was succesful much of the time.

2) Be sure you pull the pan, remove the rod and main caps and reapply a good assembly lube to all the bearing surfaces. While you are in there, shoot some oil up on the timing chain and gears. In other, words, lubricate everything as if you doing a rebuild, and were ready to button it up and install.

3) Even if the guy says it has been oiled again, pull the valve covers and squirt oil along the rocker arms and down on the lifters.

You can't be too careful.

Personally, if the price was right (knocking off some in case the rings won't seat or one breaks plus a little for that inherent fear that a 30-year old rebuild might blow), I'd grab it in a minute.

Eddie

 

I would suggest a kerosene overhaul at least.
It is so easy to check every thing now.

I had an engine sit for a few years after overhaul, and even though it had been caustic tanked and cleaned the extended dry out resulted in much "new" rust flakes and scale coming loose and fouling the radiator and other small water holes.