Will be replacing the lowers, tops OK, why don't they offer the top balljoint, NAPA says comes with control arm?

Jeff

 

If you get Moog parts, you still have to change the whole control arm but if they ever need to be changed again, Moog sells just the joint that will fit in a Moog control arm. They are greaseable as well. I would just assume change the whole control arm and be done with it, less headache for maybe $10 more per side is a good trade to me.

 

I don't think that the factory ones are serviceable at all. Like bigdaddII says, Moog joints would be a good idea. It is always nice to be able to grease things.

 

Yeah, thanks guys. I had called NAPA back again and they explained it exactly as BigDaddy did. Since tops are OK, I thought I would wait. I assume I can just support stuff and change the top contol arm-ball joint in the future by just unbolting the control arm and driving the old ball joint stud out of the knuckle, popping the new ball joint stud back into the knuckle and refasten the control arm. Am I assuming it will be this easy, or am I missing something?

 

You will need to replace the entire control arm the first time you do ball joints. You should be able to just support the lower control arm with a jack or jack stand. If you go with the OEM style then you won't be able to replace the ball joint by itself in the future, you will be stuck replacing the whole assembly. If you go with the Moog control arm then you will be able to replace just the ball joint in the future.

How many miles are on the truck? If it were me, I would replace uppers and lowers on both sides at the same time. It looks like the upper control arm with ball joint is only $40 or so from rock auto for the Spicer unit (non replaceable ball joint) which isn't bad at all. You will need an alignment anyway, so it makes sense to replace any parts that might be loose or older at the same time. Have the alignment shop check for slack in the tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms as well. If there is slop, replace them before they do the alignment. You will LOVE the feeling of a new suspension.

 

I would just change out the whole control arm and not worry about it. The chances of you ever have having to replace them again during the remainder of the ownership of your truck is slim to none. To me it is not worth the hassle of trying to pop out the joints, to change the control arm you just have to remove the cambolt and spacer then replace the control arm assembly and put everything back togather and go get it aligned. The first time you replace the uppers you will have to change the control arm.

 

Ok, you guys convinced me. Tops are 75 bucks each, Moog, from NAPA. Truck has 132,000 miles, Minnesota salty Winters, it is my work truck, has "too much" weight on it I'm sure. I did check rest of stuff, that's how this started, I had a bad DS Inner Tie Rod end. You are right, I need an alignment, might as well do the tops, get it re-aligned, should be good.
Thanks for the help...

Jeff

 

Where in MN are you at? I am from the Twin Cities originally.

 

Mister Cmk... North of Twin Cities, Linwood Township, between Wyoming and East Bethel, on Linwood Lake.

Jeff

 

I just did the front end of my 2000 f150 and replaced them with Motorcraft (factory) parts. The upper and lower ball joints are greaseable, along with the outer tie rod ends. It's interesting that the inner tie rod ends are the only non greaseable components from Motorcraft. While your in there, check that steering idler arm as the bushings go bad in it and they are not serviceable. Just replace the upper arm as it comes with new rubber bushings in it. With the age and mileage of the truck they are probably dry rotted and splitting. Be sure to get your alignment checked afterwards.

 

Iron miner..The inner tie rod end I replaced you can grease, but I got at NAPA, was not a Motorcraft though.

Jeff

 

I also had to replace the idler arm in our Expedition (same basic truck). It only had 60k or something like that on it when the part was replaced.