ive checked all of the summit cams and none are computer compatible, unless i overlooked one but i doubt it. But it doesnt matter if first is useless cause its an automatic, let it shift to what ever it wants whenever it wants. i dont care if it stays in first for a second cuz im not shifting in and out of it.

 

I don't believe the cam would have to be computer compatible.

 

Start here http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...+Manufacturers

And then go through their catalogs and/or call or E/mail them. Tell them what you have and what you want and go from there.

 

clifford knows theyre sh** though. you can get a cheaper cam from summit but it doesnt come with everything you need to install it... like jonbass40 said, dont get too wil unless you intend on puttin a LOT more into your engine.. get the 264 or 272.. also dont get 3.73s for your rear.. even a stock tire size needs a 4.10 to get goin or burn em.. im waitin till i get my headers on to put my 4.56s in

 

They may know something, but they won't tell you what it is until you write them a serious check. Why spend twice as much on your engine to get that last 1% of power. Not worth it.

You don't need 4.10 gears to get your tires burning unless you want to get them burning in 3rd gear. I have no trouble lightning them up with 3.08's and I'm running more tire than stock. Having 4.10's would just mean your out of 1st gear before your foot gets all the way to the floor.

Most cams won't tell you if they are computer compatible because they haven't been tested in a computer controlled engine. The main factor that determines if it will work and play nice with your computer is idle vacuum. That is determined by the amount of overlap the cam has. A solid street cam will have less than 20 degrees of overlap. 20-25 degrees is pushing it, and over 25 degrees may need some reprogramming to make it work. To determine how much overlap the cam has, add the intake and exhaust duration together and divide that by 4, then subtract the lober separation angle from that number to get the amount of overlap. For example, a Comp 268 has 268 degrees of duration on both lobes and is ground on a 110 LSA. (268+268)/4 is 134. 134-110=24 degrees of overlap.

 

If you need all of the parts hear is a good kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

 

I hate to be a killjoy, but I think you could gain significant performance improvements with a manual transmission and a free flowing muffler alone. Watch not all "performance" mufflers are true performance. I looked inside Thrush turbos and Cherry Bombs and in both the tubes get smaller diameter within the muffler. My Raptor maintains full tube width throughout.

 

having a manual has always been the way to go if your performance oriented.. but silver streak.. ive got 4.10s with my 33" tires right now and cant burn em without crow hopping..

 

*sigh* search is ur friend.

check my sig, i have pretty much every mild mod that can be done. only thing left is a ported head. i also helped several people build efi 300s, one of which is a good friend that i got some seat time behind the wheel of and lemme tell ya...that summabitch runs good.

im also adding electric fans, eventually. i have all the parts, just no time.

 

By crow hopping are you talking about your footwork, or the truck jumping up and down because of wheel hop. If it's the latter, the problem isn't the engine. I've got 255/60/15's on right now and they are no challenge at all to light up. I used to have 275/60's on and they weren't hard either. Your talking about big mud tires and he's talking about a lowered street truck. Obviously with a tire 20% larger than stock you're going to need at least 20% more gear to turn them, probably 25-30% because of the added weight.

 

Yea hes right im using stock rims with stock size tires, Mines auto like i said and even with 3.08s i can light up those tires but their small compared to mudding tires. I think the way to go will be to find the rear end from an explorer and swap the LSD and the 3.73 into mine. I got a hook up on boneyard stuff, and i can get one thats not too beat up. Oh whats the opinion you guys have on lowered trucks? Just curious since ive never heard on another lowered 92-96 on this forum.

 

The first thing I would do is make sure the air flow in and out is good. First a free flowing muffler or cat back system will help. I don't think the after market headers give that much more performance than your stock EFI ones. Consider a new high flow cat.
The K&N filter is a good option, but since the 300, 302, and 351 use the same filter system I don't think there will be much real improvement. Make sure the throttle bores are clean. Naturally make sure the ignition system is operating properly and try advancing the timing 2deg at a time. Next I would consider the upgrade to bigger fuel injectors(with FPR) and next the cam. Do a search for the chevy lifter upgrade.
I have 3.55 gears and a manual 5spd in my 94 and its pretty good combo. Its good off the line and good gas mileage on the highway(17-20).
Good luck and don't be discouraged. The 300 stock is about 145hp and that can be streched to 200hp with those mods. Synthetic lubricants can also help since we have seven main bearings.
Personally I am old fart and will go with the high flow cat, 3" magnaflow SISO, K&N filter, timing change, chevy lifter upgrade, and electric fan.
regards
rikard

 

u wont see 200 hp with those mods. its the chevy rocker arm mod, no lifter.

u need a lot of airflow to hit 200 hp.

 

Yep, you aren't even going to get close to 200 hp without going into the motor. Maybe 175 or 180. The good news is that you can make huge gains once you've made the committment to open it up and mod it internally.

 

the cam in my sig is a good starting point. the killer on these (and more stock Ford engines) are the cylinder heads...more so the exhaust side.