Motor has "no balls"
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 277
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From: The Casa
Motor has "no *****"
I got a 1977 F-150 4x4 auto(C-6).She has a 351M in it.Motor was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago.It don't have anything performance on it exept a set of Hedman Hedders,and a mild cam.Becides these 2 addons its all stock.It still has the 2bbl carb if it matters.
Anyway what can I do to give it somemore low-end grunt.It got some good power after 2,000 rpm,but I need power off idle when im haulin to get the load moving.What do you think would be my best bet for this low end muscle.And if the truck is supposed to run like this, because it is too hevy,don't call me a Jack@$$ ,just tell me so. please.
Thanks for any suggestins.
Anyway what can I do to give it somemore low-end grunt.It got some good power after 2,000 rpm,but I need power off idle when im haulin to get the load moving.What do you think would be my best bet for this low end muscle.And if the truck is supposed to run like this, because it is too hevy,don't call me a Jack@$$ ,just tell me so. please.
Thanks for any suggestins.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Yuba City CA
This is when the 4 speed manuel takes advantage. Take control of your power by taking control of your gears..... yes ......ATX to MTX conversion. Its the only way to reach top rpm on first and second gear on these motors. My truck weighs nearly 7k, but off the line Im toe to toe w/ anyone bar none.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: western montana
wondering if the 'mild cam' might be an issue due to the lousy compression these engines make. it's easy to decompress them to the point they have little value down low. Might not be the issue either.
the headers should help quite a bit. if the lower end is fresh you could get a set of aussie 2v heads- closed chamber that would give you about 1.3 points of compression...would dramatically increase low end. i disagree with the standard tranny bit. you can add a shift kit and manually shift with a ratchet shifter if you want more control over gears and rpm.
You could lower the gear ratio front and back or some $. if you have oversized tires and 3.50 or higher gears that could be a major contributor as well.
Have you double checked vacuum etc...? what is your base and total timing? ck all the basics. A 4bbl carb and intake would help some...was the timing chain and cog upgraded? that would help as well.
The best of all options is to get the 400 crank and pistons when rebuilding...for just a little $ you get a real truck motor....much of this info is too late I know
good luck
the headers should help quite a bit. if the lower end is fresh you could get a set of aussie 2v heads- closed chamber that would give you about 1.3 points of compression...would dramatically increase low end. i disagree with the standard tranny bit. you can add a shift kit and manually shift with a ratchet shifter if you want more control over gears and rpm.
You could lower the gear ratio front and back or some $. if you have oversized tires and 3.50 or higher gears that could be a major contributor as well.
Have you double checked vacuum etc...? what is your base and total timing? ck all the basics. A 4bbl carb and intake would help some...was the timing chain and cog upgraded? that would help as well.
The best of all options is to get the 400 crank and pistons when rebuilding...for just a little $ you get a real truck motor....much of this info is too late I know
good luck
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
The single thing that makes these engines gutless is lack of compression ratio. Unless you do something about that, no matter what else you do, it will feel gutless.
Since the engine is fresh, your best bet would be a set of Aussie heads. That way you wouldn't have to tear apart a freshly rebuilt bottom end.
My $0.02,
Since the engine is fresh, your best bet would be a set of Aussie heads. That way you wouldn't have to tear apart a freshly rebuilt bottom end.
My $0.02,
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 349
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From: Ohio
my dad has a 79 150. it kind of does the same thing, but it doesnt seem to be as bad as you describe it. what would really help to make it better, would be an edelbrock carb and intake. you can get the both of them for a reasonable price, through jegs or summit or any other edelbrock dealer. yea, i wouldnt think that you would have to get a tranny conversion kit if you got a shift kit. that is just my opinion.
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From: The Casa
Ok I guess I didn't get as far into it as I should.
My timing is traight up.The engine pulls good vacumn,fresh vacumn hoses.The bottom end of the motor is still fresh,so I don't know about a 400 conversion.
I have been looking into a set of Aussie heads,but I didn't know if any mods were necicary.Now the I have some people telling me to go for the Aussie heads I am starting to look a litlle into them.Are these heads a direct fit or will they need some mods.Can I use stock valvetrain or will I need a specialized set.And last but not least will work need to be done to the bottom end(pistions,conn.rods,machining,etc.)
Thanks for all the suggestions.
My timing is traight up.The engine pulls good vacumn,fresh vacumn hoses.The bottom end of the motor is still fresh,so I don't know about a 400 conversion.
I have been looking into a set of Aussie heads,but I didn't know if any mods were necicary.Now the I have some people telling me to go for the Aussie heads I am starting to look a litlle into them.Are these heads a direct fit or will they need some mods.Can I use stock valvetrain or will I need a specialized set.And last but not least will work need to be done to the bottom end(pistions,conn.rods,machining,etc.)
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 295
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From: conway arkansas
aussie heads are the same head thats on your motor with teh exception of the closed chamber design like the early cleveland 4 barrell head, basically thats what they are with smaller valves and ports so they are more ecomonical to use on a daily driver or weekend cruiser really. they will bolt on your current motor without any mods to teh lower end, teh manifold and headers will still bolt up and the rockers will interchange i believe too that should really wake that ole motor up,
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
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From: NE Texas
8.0:1. I don't know exactly because most discussion about this relates to the 400, but I would bet that a set of Aussie heads would bring it to about 9.5:1 or a tad less.
One thing that you could do, depending on your experience level, would be to find a 400 crankshaft, have it offset turned for a 4.2" stroke, narrow a set of late 300 I6 rods and put this together with your existing pistons and heads. Make sure the pistons go back in the same holes with, of course, new rings. That would bring the compression up to about 9.2 or 9.3 and add about 70 cubic inches in the process.
This would give you the stump puller engine you are looking for.
After doing this, you would probably need to add three or four more fuel tanks to the vehicle so you would have some range, but you only complained about power, you didn't beg for fuel economy.
One thing that you could do, depending on your experience level, would be to find a 400 crankshaft, have it offset turned for a 4.2" stroke, narrow a set of late 300 I6 rods and put this together with your existing pistons and heads. Make sure the pistons go back in the same holes with, of course, new rings. That would bring the compression up to about 9.2 or 9.3 and add about 70 cubic inches in the process.
This would give you the stump puller engine you are looking for.
After doing this, you would probably need to add three or four more fuel tanks to the vehicle so you would have some range, but you only complained about power, you didn't beg for fuel economy.
