Today my buddy took a look at my truck and told me my radius arm bushings are shot and need to be replaced.

I was also told my passanger side lower all joint has about 1/4' play and need replacement.

I can handle the ball joint, but can anyone fill me in on the radius arm bushing? Is this an easy job and are parts available?

If anyone can help, please let me know

84 F150 2wd.

Thanks, Rob

 

Hello, the bushing job is not too bad if you have a few tools, air compressor with impact gun, grinder 4" or cutting torch. These will add in doing the job a great deal. The way I have always done mine;
1. scotch truck{rear wheels} Safety #1
2.place a jack on the frame {not on the "I" beam or radius arm} and apply a small amount of lift, just snug up the jack for now.
3.the mount where the arm ataches{where the bushing are} will most likely have rivets{the older models had bolts}that you will have to grind down the head of or cut the head off with torch.
4. Take the impact gun and remove the large nut at the end of the radius arm. You may have to use the jack a little in order to remove bracket and old bushing, depending on if the end of arm binds/rests against frame, some times just a simple pull with a pry bar will solve the problem and you want have to use jack. Remove the bracket,bushing and washers,etc.
5. Put on the new washers,bushings,bracket,etc. in the order they go{should be a paper with the new ones or look at the other side} and start the large nut on th Rad-arm but dont tighten yet.
6.line up the bracket to its holes in the frame and install Grade-8 bolts and nuts{large enough to just fit through the hole} and I use lock washers.
7. Once you have the bracket secured in place{ you may have to use the pry bar again} now tighten up the large nut.
This is basicaly how to do the job, or at least it has worked for me. NOTE: if this is your first time or you are a little new at mechanic/front end work, ask a friend to help. Always let some one know if you are doing a job like this for safety reasons, any thing can go wrong and if some thing does you dont want to be stuck there for hours before some one finds you.
You should be able to get a set of bushings at any good parts house,the reg. set will work fine, you should not need the "adjustable" unless it has a big lift kit or such and you would need other parts as well. Take your time and only do one side at a time.

 

I just wanted to say that I have done several sets of these and most of the time I get away with not removing the bracket. I know for a fact I did it on my 65 2wd and it should be the same general twin i beam setup. I wouldn't suggest trying this method without a come-along, and maybe a bottle jack or two. I would be more intimidated by the ball joint. But that's prolly cause I have never done one, and I've done lots of radius arm bushings. Lots of luck-don't worry, they really aren't too bad.

 

Yes I have seen it that way as well{not removing bracket} and it will work, but on some {like my 85} I could not get it to pull enough to do it that way, so that was why I sugested the other method, and on mine I cleaned the frame area and bracket and gave them a fresh coat of paint. My truck had been in contracting and had a lot of sand,dirt,etc. stuffed under it and I wanted to get it cleaned up. I always had an easyer time with the older ones because the bracket was bolted instead of riveted, I prefer bolts, thats just me, and it makes it easyer the next time.
As far as ball joints,they can be a big job, not too bad if you have access to a "C-clmp press".

 

I could not have advised this method on a 4wd, as I don't remember if I did it that way on any of mine. I've done it the way you mentioned too, and there are alot of times I thought that your way was easier. Pretty neat to be a part of something that can not only help someone do it themself, but gives them more than one way to do it!

 

I'm nut sure what way would be easier. I have plenty of air tools, and it sounds like removing the rivets is an air tool type operation ie, grinding wheels, wire brush, air chisel....etc.


I like the idea of pulling bracket off, cleaning it up, painting an reinstall.

 

I won't do ball joints....that coil spring can kill you.

 

I recently replaced the radius arm bushings and the axle pivot bushings on my 91 F350. I took the radius arm nut, and the axle pivot bolt out. released the top coil spring attachment. removed the brake line from the caliper and dropped the whole assembly out. The axle pivot bushings were worn almost as bad as the radius arm bushings. I just drove them out with a hammer and a large socket. Much easier than I thought it would be.

 

Wow! I wish they were all that simple!

 

Hi again, on the ball joints, you can change them with out danger or fear from the coil springs, it is not too bad a job if you have the "C-clamp press", if not it can be a little more difficult. You can do it with other tools but you must take care not to bend the bore for the joint or bend/brake any thing else.
If you do the radius arm bushing the way I did mine you wont have to worry with the spring either. "Just a thought".

 

If the vehicle is supported under the I-beam with a jack, the coil spring won't go anywhere.

 

The coil spring on these trucks also isn't under pressure in the same way that other coil sprung vehicles are. If you remove the upper coil retainer and jack the truck up by the frame the coil will totally unload and the coil bucket will come at least an inch off of the top of the coil.

Can't hurt you if it isn't compressed.

But otherwise I agree. Doing coil springs on your typical a-arm car gives me the ******* no matter how many times i've done it.

Justin

 

And to do the radius arm bushings without removing the brackets, putting the jack stands under the I beams is not an option. I usually support it under the frame rails at the front, with another pair for safety further aft.

 

OK, I replaced both bushings today. Drivers side took 3 hours, Pass side took 2 hours. Probably because I discovered that the air chisel is second to none!!!The big problem I had on the Pass side is the CATS were so close to the frame, made it difficult to get nuts tightened.

Now front end feels nice and tight, braking is improved also, no more pulling left and the mystery clunk noise when lightly tapping the brakes.

Thanks to everyone who helped. Project was a breeze!!!

 

Glad you got thru it ok. Told ya it was easy.