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Clanks after cold start

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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Question Clanks after cold start

only after ir's been sitting for a couple of days. It did this a couple of weeks ago and then I changed the oil. Today is the first time it's had a chance to be started after sitting for a couple of days since I first heard the noise. The noise lasts maybe a few seconds and consists of maybe half a dozen good loud clanks like someone is hitting a frying pan with a metal spoon. I used a mechanic's stethascope after the noise had stopped and couldn't isolate it but I didn't listen to the cover behind the distributor where I think the push rods and lifters might be.

I could use some help with this. Thanks.
 

Last edited by Alex2507; Oct 1, 2007 at 05:05 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Typical valve train clatter cause all the oil has drained away. It quits right away because the oil pump goes right to work.
Don't worry about it.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
Don't run oil with the Ilsac rating or the energy conserving logo!! Thinner oil will get up there faster to lubricate it but it will also run down faster, So it has it's plus and minus either way you go. What oil are you using now? I run diesel 15w40 oil in my bronco it has 300k+ miles the higher zinc levels keeps it protected on dry start ups and during extreme conditions(high temps, running at angles I shouldn't) I change it out every 5000 miles and have let it go longer!!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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There was a TSB about this on 95s. They installed a check valve in place of the nipple the oil filter screws on to.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 03:36 AM
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I use Penzoil with Lucas. The noise happened before and after an oil change. Thias time I used high mileage oil. 10W40. I'll look in the junkyards for a check valve. Some oil filters claim to do that, don't they?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 08:07 AM
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Yes, some oil filters don't have check valves or they have lousy check valves. The most notable of those is Fram, which statistically is probably what you are using. I switched from Fram to Motorcraft and have never had another problem other than when it's time for an oil change.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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+1 on the motorcraft filters, They are quality filters. Cut open your current filter and then run a motorcraft filter, open that up after you change the oil. I bet the MC filter has more pleats and a better material than your old one!!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Are you guys saying the valve train doesn't drain of oil, so no valve clatter whatsoever....just because the oil filter has a check valve?
If so, that is preposterous. #1 the filter is like 2 ft lower. #2 ..the route to the filter from up above isn't FULL of oil.
I use MC filters....I get a clatter occasionally.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Smile False Alarm

I do use Motorcraft. The problem I believe turns out to be that I keep a milk crate full of spray cans. That was all good and fine until I threw in an aluminum drywall lifter. That thing sings up a storm when tapped. Sounds just like an aluminum speed square when dropped. Well yesterday I put it in the cab to make room in the back and this morning that strange clank came from my passenger seat.

What a relief.

Thanks for the input. It's always appreciated.

Alex
 
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Originally Posted by srercrcr
Are you guys saying the valve train doesn't drain of oil, so no valve clatter whatsoever....just because the oil filter has a check valve?
If so, that is preposterous. #1 the filter is like 2 ft lower. #2 ..the route to the filter from up above isn't FULL of oil.
I use MC filters....I get a clatter occasionally.
No, we are not saying that the anti drainback valve prevents the one or two ounces of oil in the valvetrain from leaking back into the pan. What we are saying is that the antidrain back valve will prevent the nearly full quart of oil in the filter from draining back into the pan. The pump can fill the valvetrain almost instantly. It can take it a few seconds to fill the valvetrain and filter both.
 
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