Front mount change FT to FE?
Huntington, IN 46750
Have a 55 F-600 that HAD a Y-block in it with 5spd. I only have the trans now. I bought a 360 to put in it and the b/house from a big truck FT engine with ears that will mount at stock location and is deep enough to fit the larger trans shaft. I also have the front single mount for under balancer. It bolts on the FT with timing cover bolts. On the 360 the spacing is same for holes, only one is a long bolt and thus farther away from engine and other three bolts won't touch the mount unless I put in a 2" spacer back of mount at each bolt and longer bolts of course. Anyone ever done this and know if it will line up with frame holes? I did drop a 359 FT in a 56 COE once and it fell right on holes in frame. But, don't remember where mount was or measurement on front of engine. Guess I could mount the front and b/house on engine and try to get some measurement. OR, should I cut the mount off at one tall bolt and bolt it up tight to other three bolts on front? Someone must have dealt with this before?
I read your post several times and I'm not
sure if I understand your problem.The front
mount you have,does it sit on the truck frame
rails and are you trying to use existing holes?
The FE marine mounts I've seen bolt up to the
the timing chain cover and rest on rails with
rubber isolators on either side of block.Is
this similar to what you are using.The marine
mounting system also uses a cast iron timing
chain cover instead of alum.Does your 360
have this type of cover?
Huntington, IN 46750
I have the standard Aluminum timing cover on 360. The mount has single large bolt at bottom w/rubber to go in single hole on frame. That's OK. Now, the upper part of mount aligns with the four time cover bolts, BUT, one is thicker material there, where timing marker is, and it holds the other three 2" away from cover as is. I'm thinking I need to add three 2" spacers and longer bolts to these three bolts OR need to cut off the mount bracket at the longer material area and not use the fourth bolt. AS you can see there will be a 2" difference in distance from rear mounts on b'house to the front mount depending on which I choose. I did not measure the distance required on frame yet and compare it to engine yet. I Have to get the mount and b/house set on engine I guess first. Just thought maybe someone had put in one of these engines in older truck and knew tips on install. Maybe I'm just ahead of myself here. Just got it home yesterday, and it IS cold outside here! I hate winter!
I got it now.I haven't done this swap so I
couldn't say what works and what won't. The idea
of a two inch spacer plus the length of the bolt
going through the TC cover is kinda scary.Can the
offending mount be removed and rewelded so that
a spacer need not be used?If it can that might be the
answer.You need all four bolts to provide enough
clamping pressure to keep from bending them and
to keep all the oil in the cover.I would also
try to get a cast iron TC cover.I wished I
could be of more help but anyway good luck.
Huntington, IN 46750
Yes, I measured and it would need to be out on spacers to get my 33" length between mount center holes on frame. I'm making spacers now. I suppose the alum cover is maybe a weak point. Is there standard iron covers for 360's? I'm trying not to dig in to deep on this project and just hope to have something running/driving enough to sell possibly. I'll relook at modifying the mount. I know if I cut-off one bolt hole at end it would bolt up to engine tight,but then be 2" short of measurement and I would have to add metal to front of mount to put the rubber part on. The rubber part does just bolt on to the flat spot on mount, maybe that's the way to go. I'll check on that idea.
When I posted last I was working from memory and
and as time passes that doesn't always cut it. I went
out to the garage and looked at some FE TC covers I have
and realized something.You need a case iron cover.Some
aluminum covers require different length bolts. The
iron cover uses the same length bolts,about 2" longer
than the short bolts on the alum cover.See if you
can locate the iron cover and you should be good
to go.I still wouldn't recomend the alum. cover with
spacers.Ford didn't go that route and I don't think
I would either.Maybe someone on this forum,or other
FE forums could provide you with an iron cover.I've
seen one on E-bay cheap.It seems that except for boats
or heavy trucks no one wants something that heavy.
It is iron (some FE were also) but it was designed for the big crank snout (has a different water pump huge front pulley etc...). The front mount bolts directly to it with the timing cover bolts.
You cant fit an FT cover to an FE (with out some engineering).
You will have to go the spacer route but with a alloy cover I'd be trying to pick up maybe 6 bolts and or maybe going up a bolt size.
The problem is the main load on these bolts is "shear" and bolts are meant to clamp. Maybe weld the spacers to the cover and make sure it is all square and true.
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Huntington, IN 46750
Yep! knew they were different as I had one FT that I was gonna try to put FE front on for my truck, but NO_O_O_O! nuttin' fit. Yes, I'm goin' the spacer route as I looked again and cant move mount in anymore as it hits the pan and lower edges of cover. I understand the shear idea, gonna risk it. I also need the mount out there to match measurement needed. This is nearly done deal,get longer bolts tommorrow. Why do I always get/do the weird stuff?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Not weird stuff just different.Hey we all do it,
just some more different than others.The spacers should work
the question is how long.Man you have little to risk.
If you WORK the truck then keep an eye on the front cover.
If you are going to sell it well thats another story.
Keep us informed.

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