Can anyone tell me how to test a coil pack for a V-10? I think thats my problem!

 

If your V10 has thrown a code...and you can pin-point the COP, then an easy way of telling if the COP is bad...is to switch it with a known good one. If the trouble code follows the cylinder, then you know the COP is bad.

You could always try this tool...
http://www.waekon.com/ps/cop/copintro.html


Good luck...

biz

 

O.k. hold on I'm a carpenter put the co what where?I need help bad,can you tell me like your telling a five year old!Thanks man.

 

If it has a check engine light it will be easy to pull the code with any scanner. If there is no check engine light there is a computer a shop can hook to your truck and see which coil is faulty.

I there is a tool to check the COP off the truck, but you could just try a new COP in the bad one's spot.

Does the truck "miss" while under heavy load ie low rpm lugging? This is where a bad COP is the most detectable.

 

Mine had a random miss. It didn't light the check engine light. It turrned out to be a couple of the boots between the coil and spark plug. All 10 of the coils were good and are still on the truck.

 

It probably will not light the CEL. To see which coil is bad you will need a code reader that can read PENDING CODES.

 

A few months back I thought that I had a bad coil on my 2000 F350 V10, but it turned out to be a plug instead.

Last week the 4.6 in my Town car started acting the same way. Scanner indicated that #8 was misfiring and the MIL (service engine soon light was on). I did not want to buy a coil if I didn't have to, so I decided to test it. I used a known good spark plug that I gaped to match the Town Car spec (52-56). I used a heavy cable (Battery cable) and hooked one end to the engine block and the other end to the base of the spark plug. I disabled the fuel pump relay and pluged the boot onto the spark plug with the cop attached. Placing it so that it did not touch anything, I then turned the engine over. I could see that the cop was only firing intermittenly. Maybe once every 20 to 30 RPM. I removed the boot from the coil and inspected the terminals. The large copper terminal that connects to the spring inside the boot had turned green with corrosion. I cleaned it good with my knife and a wire brush, sprayed electrical contact cleaner on it and blew it out with compressed air. It is a lot easier to do than it is to describe. Anyway, it now works fine and no coil purchase was necessary. Good luck with yours.

 

Oops. I meant to type 20 t0 30 revs instead of 20 to 30 RPM.

 

The easiest fool
Proof way to tell if you have a bad boot on a good coil is to wait till dark, open the hood with it running. And get a spray bottle and put it on
"Mist" spray everywhere under the hood and if a boot is bad, you'll see a lightening storm , the spark always will take the path of least resistance and the must in their give it. Just that..... If you notice, with a bad boot, it also developed a miss when it's raining outside but goes away when it's not. Moisture in the
Air ays havoc on bad or broken wires/ plug boots, or any insulated electrical that suffers from intermittent problems.
Hope this helps,it helps me every time to find bad if wires or boots on these fords.

Mike

 

Or another method.....

In the example DavidB provided in post #7, he knew #8 was misfiring, but didn't know what was causing the misfire. So, what you can do is swap the COP/Boot with another one, say out of cylinder #7. Swap the spark plug with #6. Clear codes and retest.

Now, the problem should have followed the bad part.

If #7 has a misfire, the COP/Boot is the issue.

If #6 now has a misfire, then the plug is at fault.

If #8 still has a misfire then the cause is probably not ignition related and you should start look at your injector or maybe a vacuum leak along the #8 intake port path, or worse yet a mechanical issue with cylinder #8.