rattling calipers
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 219
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From: michigan
rattling calipers
I've replaced the c shaped anti rattle spring
but the thng has 180k on it, still loose
plenty of wear on the caliper and the frame on the axle
very annoying, very noisy, gets everyones attention
napa says no oversize goodies available
was contemplating, drilling and taping into caliper, and mounting a flat spring to reduce (eliminate) flopping around
enginnering seems sound,
but where do I come up with flat spring?????
bar stock would stop the rattle but eliminate caliper sideways float!!!
got 2 trucks like this f250 4x4 , and a g30 van
and the ford is so loose it tosses the c spring, and caliper, and then uses the wheel to retain the caliper
but the thng has 180k on it, still loose
plenty of wear on the caliper and the frame on the axle
very annoying, very noisy, gets everyones attention
napa says no oversize goodies available
was contemplating, drilling and taping into caliper, and mounting a flat spring to reduce (eliminate) flopping around
enginnering seems sound,
but where do I come up with flat spring?????
bar stock would stop the rattle but eliminate caliper sideways float!!!
got 2 trucks like this f250 4x4 , and a g30 van
and the ford is so loose it tosses the c spring, and caliper, and then uses the wheel to retain the caliper
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
What disc and pad setup do you have? The more metallic the pad, the better the performance but the more noise you'll get (and faster wear and more dust). The more organic (non-metallic) the pad, the quieter it is along with longer life but lower performance.
If you need to have semi-metallic or metallic pads, then buy a bottle (red or blue) of disc brake quiet at your local auto parts store ($3). make sure you liberally coat the backplate of each pad where it contacts the caliper and shims. This will help dampen the resonance (noise) during braking.
Hope this helps.
If you need to have semi-metallic or metallic pads, then buy a bottle (red or blue) of disc brake quiet at your local auto parts store ($3). make sure you liberally coat the backplate of each pad where it contacts the caliper and shims. This will help dampen the resonance (noise) during braking.
Hope this helps.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by rustyoldford
oh no
this is definaly a sloopy worn out mounting system
I can reach around the wheel and shake it myself
wheel of 1/8 maybe 3/16 free play no effert
this is definaly a sloopy worn out mounting system
I can reach around the wheel and shake it myself
wheel of 1/8 maybe 3/16 free play no effert
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 219
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From: michigan
support key??? thats the h shaped contraption YEP
chevy has a round bolt hole, and stays on
ford has a u shaped slot and falls off from time to time (then the rim retains the caliper
napa sells oversize keys for f150, not the big trucks (1/32, 1/16, 3/32)
guess I could get a new set of keys, weld 1/8 inch on, and mill it down till it fits
chevy has a round bolt hole, and stays on
ford has a u shaped slot and falls off from time to time (then the rim retains the caliper
napa sells oversize keys for f150, not the big trucks (1/32, 1/16, 3/32)
guess I could get a new set of keys, weld 1/8 inch on, and mill it down till it fits
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 219
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From: michigan
sorry
both have bolts
was just describing chevy retention hole and fords fall off slot
theres a lot of baklash ford bounces and spits out spring h shape key bounces over bolt and disappears caliper chews into rim
have tried adding silicone rubber in the past, to glue things together, but brake forces mush that right out
tried replacing calipers on ford at 100k, no help, calipers not worn, brake pounding forces streched out mounting brackets ,, and I'm certain once its stretched, the additional slack gives extra pounding force
currently thinking, remove spring, measure gap, subtract spring thickness, add .03? for spring travel, weld and mill h bracket that much bigger
both have bolts
was just describing chevy retention hole and fords fall off slot
theres a lot of baklash ford bounces and spits out spring h shape key bounces over bolt and disappears caliper chews into rim
have tried adding silicone rubber in the past, to glue things together, but brake forces mush that right out
tried replacing calipers on ford at 100k, no help, calipers not worn, brake pounding forces streched out mounting brackets ,, and I'm certain once its stretched, the additional slack gives extra pounding force
currently thinking, remove spring, measure gap, subtract spring thickness, add .03? for spring travel, weld and mill h bracket that much bigger
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: michigan
close enough,
as you can see, notch on ford won't retain h key when things get sloopy
currently has about 1/8 inch slop with new spring
I'm sticking with bracket being pounded oversize
NOPE! I'm not going to put c clamp on it- and get it red hot
as you can see, notch on ford won't retain h key when things get sloopy
currently has about 1/8 inch slop with new spring
I'm sticking with bracket being pounded oversize
NOPE! I'm not going to put c clamp on it- and get it red hot
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
Likes: 153
You can ( carefully ) put the spring in a vice long ways and tweek a little more arch into it. Make a shim out of some thin metal. Or what I usually do is put 3 dots of weld across the top of caliper and grind them down till it fits good again.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: michigan
in backwards?
I think thats impossible, but can't verify that without looking
I think I'll try the welding on the h key
I can get new keys, weld them at work, then disassemble in good weather
maybe this weekend
I think thats impossible, but can't verify that without looking
I think I'll try the welding on the h key
I can get new keys, weld them at work, then disassemble in good weather
maybe this weekend