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Here are the instructions from my manual on brake bleeding:
Manual Bleeding Procedure
NOTE: Bleed primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems separately, bleeding longest line first on each system. Do not allow reservoir to run dry during bleeding operation. Never reuse fluid that has been drained from hydraulic system.
Loosen master cylinder to hydraulic line nuts and wrap shop cloths around tubing below fitting to absorb escaping brake fluid.
Depress brake pedal slowly forcing air trapped in master cylinder out at fitting.
Hold pedal down and tighten fittings, then release brake pedal. NOTE: Releasing brake pedal before fittings are tightened will allow air to enter the master cylinder.
Repeat steps 1 through 3 until air ceases to escape at fittings and brake pedal is firm.
Bleed brakes as follows: RR, LR, ABS valve, RF, LF
Bleed the Rear Antilock Brake System (RABS) valve.
Bleed the front brakes using same procedure as for rear brakes.
Check brake operation and ensure pedal is firm, road test vehicle.
How did air get into the system to begin with? There may be other problems here that we can diagnose that you might not even know about.
When you step on the brakes, pump them up a few times. Does the pedal stay where it is, or does it slowly sink? The answer to that will tell you if you need a new master cylinder.
YES you need to bleed the ABS valve. Or, if you want to eliminate it, you can do so with a small piece of brake line. The ABS on these trucks is worthless anyway.
Do I have RABS on my 91' F-250 lariet. I drive it about 2-3000 miles a year. After it's sat a while and it's rained. When I first drive it the rear brakes lock up the first few applications. I read if the shoes are on backwards that will cause this. I havn't had a reason to take it apart to look. I drive it so little it's not been an issue. I built a one man brake bleeder out of a 1 gallon yard spray pump. I havn't a chance to use it yet.
I replaced the rear lines and cylinders. In my novice bleeding experience I did let the reservoir go dry. I will re-bleed them to the specs that Wingman69 has posted and let you all know how it goes.
youll find it on the frame rail under the drivers seat just about even with your pedals directly below the firewall snagged the wires on mine muddin and had to rewire minus the plug in
Answered my question about bleeding the rABS. I wasn't sure what the "other" bleeder on my van was. I had to replace the rear brake line, rusted a hole. getting ready to bleed the system this AM and wanted to see what that other bleeder was.
Does my truck have one of these? and if so, where would I find it?
Does anyone happen to have a part number for this?
I am about to rebuild the brake system on my truck. I have just about all the parts I need, but was thinking about just replacing this valve since my truck has almost 260K miles on it, just so I don't have to worry about it causing problems later.
I knew the RR, LR, RF, LF bleeing procedure, but didn't realize that the RABS valve needed to be bled also.
After it's sat a while and it's rained. When I first drive it the rear brakes lock up the first few applications. I read if the shoes are on backwards that will cause this. I havn't had a reason to take it apart to look.
This is normal. The drums are slightly corroding due to moisture and can even happen overnight. The first few times the brakes are applied, it cleans up.
Handsomerob.......I hope you are aware that when bleeding brakes, the bleeder must be closed each time before the pedal is allowed to come back up.
Bleeding is kind of a two man/person (wifes and girlfriends are handy sometimes) job.
Pressure should be applied to the pedal, ....then the bleeder should be opened. With the pedal still depressed, the bleeder should then be closed..............then the pedal released.
Then the pedal pressed again before the bleeder is opened again, and the bleeder closed before the pedal is allowed to rise.
Over and over again till the air stops coming out.
Even with a piece of hose over the bleeder and the other end submersed in a can of fluid, air trapped in the hose can keep huffing and puffing back into the wheel cylinder.
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