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Intermittant problems at cruising

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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Intermittant problems at cruising

New to this forum, as I have bought a 88 Bronco II for a mere 700 bucks from a guy from work. test drove it, seemed fine. On the way home, ran perfect for at least 30 miles. The RPMs began to fluctuate, it would surge and then bog down a little. It did this for a few miles, and then it went away. Parked it, didnt drive it for two days. Drove it fine in the morning, and drove fine on the way home, though it seemed to do it for a few miles again, though not as bad.

Today, however, encountered major traffic. It seemed to do okay, until about 10 miles into it. The truck would drop RPMs rapidly, and I had to floor it to maintain a bare 35MPH, enough to get off the freeway. Left the freeway, started running okay. Jumped back onto the freeway, ran fine most of the way home. There is a stop sign near my place. I stopped, and it stalled out. It started okay, bogged a bit, but cleared up within a mile.

Checked fluids, all is okay. Not sure what to check next. I am not familiar with this type of car. Usually had mostly Nissans and Toyotas, and minimal problems with them, and knew the way around the engine. Any advice is appriciated, as this vehical is my life blood right now to get to work.

Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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If it helps, ran perfect on Friday to and from work, round trip of about 100 miles. Didnt floor it, just accelerated in a slow, consistent and calculated rate. After having much newer cars, I have been used to just flooring a vehicle to get going. However, I believe I should be able to floor it from time to time without issue. Still waiting if anyone has any advice. Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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Always get the VERY simple stufff out of the way first:

1 Pull the codes.

2. Put a vacuum gauge on it.

3. Check fuel pressure.

Since it sounds like you might have a clogged ca, the most importat test with the vacuum gauge is this:

Note the gauge reading at idle, then slowly increase engine speed to 2500 RPM's

If vacuum drops as you increase engine speed the cat is clogged.

So take /2 an hour to d tse simplelil
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Well, my computer was acting stupid, but I think you get the point.

Take a 1/2 hour to do these simple little tests & post back with what you find.

BTW, have you looked at the cat when it's running bad, is it glowing red?

Does it rattle if you bang on it with your hand when it's cold??
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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The Cat is brand new, less than 6 months, which is one of the reasons I went ahead and got this vehicle. The owner gave me a pretty comprehensive list of things he has done and replaced with invoices over the time he has owned it.

Even so, I cant look at it when its running bad, as usually, Im on the freeway. I suppose I could hire a midget and have him climb down there and see.

Ill go and pull some codes anyway, its been quite a while since I had to do that.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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If pulling codes does'nt give any clues see if you can catch it when it's bogging down & check fuel pressure.

I have an actual pressure gauge, but according to some posts that i've read here on FTE a tire pressure gauge will also work.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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ill ride under there for 5$ and a crash helmet...you supply the helmet
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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This is a different question, however, I dont want to open a new thread. I noticed it leaks a little coolant after it is turned off. I want to make sure it has enough till I can replace the hose that appears to be the problem. I dont see an expansion tank or anything, so is there a way i can fill it and not have too much in there, or will the excess steam out or something?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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on the driver side is the coolant overflow. add coolant there, if you add too much it will just spill on the ground when the engine is hot. top off your rasdatior first, then try filling the overflow 1/4 to 1/2 full.
the way it works is when the engine is hot, instead of blowing the seals or cap, it dumps the extra into the overflow. when the engine is cooling off, there is a vacume created, and it sucks the coolant back into the radatior
 
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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noticed the coolant overflow lid comes off. Seems bad to me, as if it wont create a vacuum. Wonder if some silicone will help seal it.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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as long as the hose from the raidator is under the surface of the water, it will work. pay attention next time you drink from a straw, same concept.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:28 PM
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Where should idle be for the 2.9L? Its usually between 100 and 300 RPMs, seems low to me.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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haynes has it as..refer to vehicle emission control label.... 2.9 isnt in the chapter for adjusting the idle. is it fuel injected or caurbereted? and... you have a tach???? i dont! bummer. maybe because mine was originally an auto, then converted to stick.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Its a 2.9, auto and does have a tach. It hasnt stalled out, but Im wondering if the tach is off. I know thats too low for idle.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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sounds low, most cars and trucks idle around 800 to 1000 rpm. i would check the tach first. there is a way they taught in auto shop useing a multimeter to check repm... well it was a voltmeter we used but i forgot how to do it
 
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