lowering a f6... ALOT
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,005
Likes: 3
From: Mcafee, NJ
lowering a f6... ALOT
i have a 49 f6 with a 239 flathead v8 / 4 speed un-schynro w/2 speed rear.
im flipping the rear axle so that the rearend housing will be over the spring rather than under.
the c-notch is made and will be welded in tomorrow.
it seems to me that the rear axle housing is equivalent right to left top to bottom (with the exception of the vent)
so my questions are as follows:
1.) Is the rear end symetrical?
2.) if i strip the axle down to the housing and flipp it and reverse it so that the spring perches/mounts r on the top will i be able to re assemble it and make it work?
it seems to me that the bolt pattern on the front and back of the housing r the same.
thx in advance
im flipping the rear axle so that the rearend housing will be over the spring rather than under.
the c-notch is made and will be welded in tomorrow.
it seems to me that the rear axle housing is equivalent right to left top to bottom (with the exception of the vent)
so my questions are as follows:
1.) Is the rear end symetrical?
2.) if i strip the axle down to the housing and flipp it and reverse it so that the spring perches/mounts r on the top will i be able to re assemble it and make it work?
it seems to me that the bolt pattern on the front and back of the housing r the same.
thx in advance
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 2
From: Marryville, Tennessee
I'm not that sure on why you are "flipping" your axle? Cant you just weld new perches on the bottom side. Wont that keep the geometry "somewhat" the same just 4" lower? Also doesent that put the rearend off to the opposite side? Just seems easier to reweld the perches then to go through all that? But all the rest with "C" notching is the way to go. Hope it all turns out for ya
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Mcafee, NJ
it just seems easier to remove the stuff, that i was gonna remove to clean anyway, and flip it than to cut out the perches bend a peice to weld in and reweld them onto the oppisite side...
unless its gonna kill the pinion angle which i know could be an issue but wouldnt it just make it the same angle but neg. ???? if it makes it the same but neg is that ook?
unless its gonna kill the pinion angle which i know could be an issue but wouldnt it just make it the same angle but neg. ???? if it makes it the same but neg is that ook?
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 352
Likes: 5
From: Elizabethtown, Ky.
Forgive me if I'm wrong but in late model model trucks the flip kits just means that the rear is put on top of the springs from the bottom of the springs. The left is still the left and the right is still the right. I don't know how your pinion goes into your rearend but in a 9", 8", or the mustang 8.8" you can not just turn the rearend upside down without causing a failure due to lack of lubrication for one but formost, it would be running backwards. 
In the later model truck kits they supply a "U" shaped bracket that hooks into the original perch to create a perch on the opisite side with the correct pinion angle.
In the later model truck kits they supply a "U" shaped bracket that hooks into the original perch to create a perch on the opisite side with the correct pinion angle.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
He has the Eaton style rear axle. He is wondering if he could disassemble his entire axle down to the housing. Flip the housing so that the spring pads are now underneath and then reassemble the axle.
It does look like you could do it but I don't think has tried that so you may have to figure it out through trial and error.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Mcafee, NJ
dueller u hit the nail on the head the eaton rear is what i have seems to me it will work also ... trial and error is fine with me and new and diffrent is what im aiming for ... i mean fter all who lowers a f6 12" in the rear with out losing payload capacity
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 352
Likes: 5
From: Elizabethtown, Ky.
Ok, I understand. Couple of things to think about and they might be correctable. Bolt location of the pumpkin to make sure you can bolt it back in. And the spring perch angle.
You might be able to drill new holes and mount new studs to be able to mount the pumpkin.
Also the way the perches are mounted (welded) they might be way off of the angle that you need. You might be able to use wedges to correct this but it might be too much in which case you will have to cut them loose and reweld them anyways.
I myself would buy some perches, set the rearend in them, set the pinion angle and weld them up. JMO
You might be able to drill new holes and mount new studs to be able to mount the pumpkin.
Also the way the perches are mounted (welded) they might be way off of the angle that you need. You might be able to use wedges to correct this but it might be too much in which case you will have to cut them loose and reweld them anyways.
I myself would buy some perches, set the rearend in them, set the pinion angle and weld them up. JMO
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Mcafee, NJ
well the housing is empty and it seems that the front drivers side has a 1/2" cut out between bolts for the 2 speed assembly... but I think its a small enough cut out that I could make it with a die grinder...time will tell