I found a good deal on a Miller arc ac dc welder (not so good if it doesn't work) anyway I have a 220 plug in my garage for my compressor (compressor is 30 amps) but is wired and has receptacle for a fifty amp plug. I wired it that way purposely so I could use the plug for something else in the future.

So I have a 30 amp Breaker in the panel box for the compressor. I plugged the welder into that plug thinking ok maybe I can weld using the 30 amp breaker or maybe it will just trip the breaker. I couldn't get a nice arc going and the breaker never tripped. The welder is rated at 47.5 amps so I think I need a 50 amp breaker and will try it again, if that doesn't work then I spent $80.00 on a peice of garbage.
Any thoughts on the 50 amp breaker vs the 30 amp breaker? I hope that is all the problem is.

Thanks for any sugestions

Josh

 

What are you welding, what number rod and what amp setting do you have it set to?

 

a piece of a 51 truck frame (a scrap piece for testing on) about 3/16" ? thick

rod # 7018 3/32 " I started out about 90 amps and went up to about 150 amps

 

That's a big rod for just 3/16. You can weld 1/2 plate with that rod. I personally used 7014 when I welded my frame.

There could be the chance that you got a bad batch of rods. My dad once bought a different brand of 7018 and couldn't even get the darn things to start. He went back to the other brand and it welded fine.

 

51 dueller is right, the rods have to good and dry to work properly (even a little humidity in the rod isn't good). While using the welder, if the 30 amp breaker didn't trip, then a 50 will not help. What may help, is the size of wire, if the wire is too small and the run is really long, the welder will not perform like it would with a shorter and larger wire feeding it. Try a few newer smaller rods on clean metal. Good Luck.
...Terry

 

you can not simply just change the breaker to a larger one. The wiring feeding the breaker will not support it. Ex 14 ga is 15 amp, 12ga is 20 amp, 10 ga is 30 amp.. So to support a 50 amp breaker, your shop wiring would have to be of heavier ga.. If you were to use existing wiring with a draw of 50 amp. the wiring could actually cause a fire in you walls.


JimG

 

If your 30 amp breaker did not trip then you were still within the rating of the breaker, I use my Lincon 225 on a 30 amp breaker and unless I am welding heavy material it will not trip. I would keep the 30 amp breaker to protect your wiring and find out why your welder is not working. You need a nice piece of plate and some dry 6013 or 6011 1/8 rod and try it again, 7014 would be good as well, the rod you were using is too big for the job.


wgc

 

Are you useing AC or DC 7018 likes DC + polarity . Are you sure of your electrode size 3/32 or 1./8 would weld ok with that welder. REMEMBER safty
first and practice makes perfect.


Have A Good Day-----Hotwrench

 

DItto on the electric... if the 30amp breaker didn't trip, a 50 amp won't do anything except create a fire hazard.

 

A 3/32" rod is a SMALL rod. It can be used easily on 1/8" steel. Running at 90 amps would be plenty, maybe too much. At 150 amps it would turn red hot and melt in two before it could be burnt all the way down. Check the polarity, run it on DC reverse (electrode positive). There is an AC 7018 as well. A 7018 does not like dirty metal. Use new rods stored in an air-tite container. Check with a welding supply store. They may check out the welder for free if you buy stuff from them. The only time it would need 50 amps input is when the machine is turned to the hottest setting.

 

Is the compresor 220 and does it still run? If a voltage leg isn't working, no load to pop anything. Miller dealers are good to work with, let them check out your new welder. Most will do it free, wanting your future business. Have a great day,chuck

 

3/32" is a small rod, but is adequate for what you are working with. I usually used 1/8" for 1/4" plate and such, so the rod size isn't the problem if you know what you are doing. Your amperage seems excessive, however. 7018 rods are a low hydrogen rod and on a job site, might be kept in a warming oven because they are susceptible to absorbing moisture. I have heard that it is possible to "rejuvenate" them by putting them in an oven for a while. However, I am not sure if this is your problem. 7018 rods can be used on AC or DC+. I typically ran mine on DC+. If you know how to break-down the numbering system of SMAW rods, it might help. Also, a welding rod just isn't a welding rod, but a 7018 rod is a pretty good "universal" rod as it is good for all position welding.

I don't know what your experience is with stick welding, but if you are new to it, this is probably your problem. The biggest problem new users have is how to get an arc started. The best way I can describe it is to strike it like a match. You might want someone to show you if you have never done it before. However, if you have stick welded before then I have know idea what your problem is, probably something with the machine, or you need to break the glazed over "flux" off the end of your rod. You can't restart a partially used 7018 rod that easy I find.

 

Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions,

The wiring in the wall from the panel to the oulet is wired for a fifty amp breaker, and the plug and receptacle are aslo rated for 50 amps I just used a 30 amp breaker because thats the rating on the compressor. sounds like maybe thats not going to be the problem though.
I do have about a 30' power cord from the receptacle to the welder and the leads are also extra long. I was using DC

I will try a different rod before looking at shortening the power supply.
I have stick welded a little bit about 12 years ago so I wouldn't say I know what I'm doing but didn't have any trouble starting a rod back then?

Thanks again

Josh

 

my opinion as well. Good luck.