delayed shift into drive
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delayed shift into drive
My 89 Aerostar (3.0L al4d) tranny works great once in drive but getting it to engage is a matter of waiting awhile. Never immediate but will engage after 10 seconds to 2 minutes. I dare not rev much because sure as heck it will engage at the top of my revving and I am off like a dragster. reverse works great, OD is fine, up and down shift is super. Only a delayed response to placing the van in any forward speed setting. Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Check the transmission fluid to make sure it's clean and not low. The second sign of low fluid is sluggish engagement. (The first is a low indication on the dipstick.) Check both sides of the dipstick and use the lower reading.
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I checked the tranny fluid level and it was quite high, the result of a slanted driveway when checking. Released the fluid until just right. It now shifts into gear within 1 minute, unsure if a coincidence or not. I added a full quart of X-trans, keeping the level just right per your instructions. No difference yet but having it slip into gear quicker and with some regularity is a huge improvement. I have new o-rings for the servo but have not tried as reverse works so darn well I think it may NOT be the servo. Thanks again!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
When mine started doing this I had the bands ajusted, this helped it out alot. I have had them ajusted a couple of times, but the trans has 150000 miles on its rebuild and I'm thinking that it may be time for another rebuild.
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delayed engagement into first gear
Thanks all for the input. The fluid level is important to have exactly correct on this tranny yet my situation has degraded. The tranny is now taking 30-60 minutes to engage into 1st gear when cold, never does engage when already warm so... I have stopped driving until I can remove the valve body and check all other factors. I hate to do a rebuild as the tranny works perfectly in all other aspects.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Wichita
Your symptoms indicate that your tranny is not well regardless of whether it works in "all other aspects". You should respond to this before you end up stranded somewhere.
When my Aero was having trouble similar to this it was the o-ring on the filter. As a last effort, you might try changing the filter, fluid and o-ring.
When my Aero was having trouble similar to this it was the o-ring on the filter. As a last effort, you might try changing the filter, fluid and o-ring.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
I don't mean to sound like the bearer of bad news, but when the A4LD tranny starts to seem like it is working perfectly, it is actually excessively worn. Ford trannys are supposed to be firm, and when they get to where the shift smoothly, they are starting the wear out the friction surfaces. Have you replaced the fluid? Chances are the bands are excessively worn, which is what is often happening when the transmission won't engage. The bands need to actually grab and instead they drag. Its kinda like dragging your brakes, its not enough to actually slow you down much, but it sure wear them out fast.
The positive side is that you will probably not require a total rebuild to correct the situation. If you have the time and another vehicle you can drive, you can even do it yourself. Use quality aftermarket upgrade parts, such as stronger bands, pressure boost valves, adjustable vacuum modulators, etc. Makes the transmission shift firmer, faster, and last longer.
The positive side is that you will probably not require a total rebuild to correct the situation. If you have the time and another vehicle you can drive, you can even do it yourself. Use quality aftermarket upgrade parts, such as stronger bands, pressure boost valves, adjustable vacuum modulators, etc. Makes the transmission shift firmer, faster, and last longer.
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Thanks everyone, I should have added that when the tranny does shift into gear, its quite firm, not sluggish or vague at all. Seems to be a problem whereby my command to shift is not being implimented. Is there a DIY pressure check I can run on the main pump? I have several gauges, one reads to 200 PSI, and lots of brass fittings laying around, perhaps that would pinpoint/eliminate a worn pump. Any suggestions?
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As stated above, the number one cause of A4LD problems is low fluid level. The engine/transmission has to be at operating temperature, on a level surface, to accurately check. Once you start adding/subtracting fluid it becomes difficult to tell where the fluid level actually is until ALL residual fluid has drained down from the dipstick tube.
If the level is accurate and problems persist, there could several reasons. Has there been any recent maintenance work such as filter/fluid changes? If so, you may have a missing/dislodged/damaged o-ring on the filter which is preventing proper fluid pick up to the pump.
Other possibilities from this point could any number of internal malfunctions - pump wear, solenoid(s) issues, valve wear/blockages, etc.
Yes, there is an external pressure port for checks. A reputable transmission shop can usually diagnosis pressure problems quickly and around $35-45 for a simple pressure test.
If the level is accurate and problems persist, there could several reasons. Has there been any recent maintenance work such as filter/fluid changes? If so, you may have a missing/dislodged/damaged o-ring on the filter which is preventing proper fluid pick up to the pump.
Other possibilities from this point could any number of internal malfunctions - pump wear, solenoid(s) issues, valve wear/blockages, etc.
Yes, there is an external pressure port for checks. A reputable transmission shop can usually diagnosis pressure problems quickly and around $35-45 for a simple pressure test.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
manual with pressure tests
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...de=A4LDmanuals
some of the test pressures approx 300 psi
do the stall speed tests after pressure tests
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...de=A4LDmanuals
some of the test pressures approx 300 psi
do the stall speed tests after pressure tests
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