I've got quite of oiling all over my tranny and I'm just curious where this is likely coming from? Does the rear of the trans come apart for servicing? Is it possible it's leaking from there? Also; this oiling is on the front and the rear of the transmission.. front would be what.. slave cylinder?

Thanks in advance guys. Also; do ya'll think it's possible to hurt anything by pressure-washing off the transmission to get a better idea of where the leaks are?

And.. last but not least, I seem to have a pretty bad leak around where the intake and block meet at the front by the distributor (lots of sludgyness). Are these bad for leaking around there? Same thing I asked as before.. would I hurt anything pressure-washing it?

 

the m5od has atf as the lube. there are 3 plugs at the top of the trans at the rear of the transmission shifter housing that cause it to leak. you may be albe to replace them without taking the top off,but i just took the top off and replaced mine.one thing is for sure if it is leaking fix it quickly because if you don't the trans will be ruined. I can't see any reason why you can't wash off the trans so you can see just where it is leaking from. of course you have an internal slave cylinder which means that it is in the bell housing and if that is bad you have to pull the trans. but if it was leaking that bad your clutch wouldn't be working.
while I had the top off I also replaced the shifter bushings,so now the shifter is tight not sloppy like it was before-- just a thought if you take the top off. Jack

 

Don't ignore the possibility of a drooling rear main seal. Even if it ain't the slave, and the oil is coming from inside the bell, you're gonna lose the clutch. (see my gallery) Is the bell housing wet too? The back edge of the oil pan? If so, at the top, or just at the bottom? Does it look like like the oil is tranny fluid, or engine oil? A tell-tale sign is the color and viscosity of the fluid, if it's enough to drip. If it's dripping, do check the level of the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder. My slave started leaking, and the master bypassed almost immediately after. For either the slave or the rear main seal, as Black89 pointed out, you're gonna have to pull the tranny. ATF is thin compared to engine oil, especially in my case since I use 20W50 Castrol GTX. Always have since the truck was new. Brake fluid (clutch system) is even thinner than the ATF, and is usually relatively clear and has the distinctive odor of Methanol/Castor Oil mix. Engine oil and ATF also smill different. You'll know what it is if you catch a sample. If it's a dripping leak, put something under the truck next time you're getting close to an oil change to capture the drips. A plastic pan is good. If the drops are black like the oil, it's the rear main. See my gallery for some photos where I changed my rear main. If you take it to a stealership, they're gonna want about $800 to R&R that tranny. Trust me, been there, done that. $1400 for a total clutch replacement and flywheel resurface, and then, the idiots didn't bother about the rear main. 11 months later, it was drooling and leaving puddles, and putting a new clutch at risk. I was NOT a happy camper, considering the seal only costs about $15. Flywheel was already off, so why not replace the rear seal on an engine with 135K on it? For about $200 for a good tranny jack, and $20 for cleaning material, and another $15 for the seal, you can drop that tranny and put it back in. It ain't rocket science. Pretty easy, actually. Just make sure to get the alignment tool for the disc if you replace it. You can make a tool to remove the hydraulic line for the slave. If you gotta go after the rear main, and the slave, pilot, and disc haven't been replaced, it's a good idea to do so, unless you find you don't mind yanking the tranny out. It isn't technically difficult, but it IS a lot of work. It can be done in a weekend, though. That too would be a good time to go ahead and pull the top on the box and re-seal it and replace the bushings. (something I didn't do). You be the judge about how much you want to do this time, but don't get ripped off by a dealer. If you have a garage to get outta the weather, even better. You'll need to raise the truck at least 12 inches to get the tranny outta the way. I used a combination of ramps under the back wheels, and jack-stands under the front end to raise the whole truck. When you get the bell housing bolts out and pry the tranny off the engine, make sure to tilt it forward a little, or you're gonna have tranny fluid all over the place. Plan B would be to take a yoke off a donor drive-shaft and put it on the splines of the tail shaft of the tranny.

The bell housing will probably be stuck on the back flange of the engine and the dowels. DO NOT BEAT ON THAT BELL!!!!!! If you look at the bottom edge of the flange on the engine, there is a hole on each side. Get a piece of 5/8" round stock to stick in there for a leverage point and pry the bell off while someone shakes the tail of the tranny. It helps if you have a 6'2" 230 lb 15 yr old on the other end of the tranny to shake it. The stealership BEAT mine off and I was not impressed. I know they did it, because my truck had 16 miles on it the first time I drove it. The tranny had NEVER been out of that truck. It now has 152K on it, and the clutch let go at 135K.

If you elect to do the work yourself, most importantly, MARK EVERYTHING before you take it apart. I used a small punch to mark the drive shaft and yoke, as well as the pressure plate and flywheel. It didn't have any vibration when I took it apart, and I wanted to make sure it didn't when I put it back together. Just make sure you put the punch marks in a place they won't hurt anything.

 

Usually parts #117 rubber plug and could also be #81 metal plug. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the image. Think I'll save that for future reference since Haynes didn't bother to put much about the M5OD in the book.

 

 

I had to do two replies it only lets me do one picture at a time. Any thing else you need to know about this tranny let me know. I've got an overhaul manual and a source for cheap parts.

 

You just made my day. Er, night, whatever. Twice now, when having the tranny fluid changed, some rather large and ominous looking metal chunks were on the magnet plug. It isn't making any noise or giving me any trouble shifting, but at 152K, it could use a bit of refreshing, I'm sure. My cousin told me I probably wouldn't get 50K outta the Mazda box, but I've got 3x that now, and not a single complaint. Still shifts good (as far as a truck tranny is concerned). I take it a little easier on the old truck now. No more juvenile burn-outs or abuse. It's a short bed standard cab, so it wheel hops REALLY bad if I do those things, which CAN'T be good for the box. Still quiet other than the usual whine in 1st or 2nd, but quiet as can be in 3 and up. If you've done one, I'd appreciate any insight on the job, and a good list of any special tools needed, along with a source for those. I noticed a little oily residue around the shifter going into the top when I dropped it for the rear main, but the plugs were all dry as bones. I'm not the OO on the truck, but it only had 16 miles on it when I got it USED. Titled in AL = USED. May as well call me the OO.

 

You can work on these with no special tools just a modified clamp on bearing puller(I used an all thread rod to extend the reach) and a 5/8" or 3/4" brass drift. When you get ready the work on it I'll give you a website they sell an Ebook and give you 30% off parts, and unlimited email to ask questions.

 

Hey, go ahead and send me the site. Who knows, I may get the e-book, and decide it's time if it doesn't look so bad. When you talked about extending the reach of the bearing puller, is that in lieu of using a press? If I had a press, would that make parts of it easier? I'm not real fond of beating on things that shouldn't be beaten on. Something I've learned from working on large electric motors.

 

You only have two bearing races to pull and the parts to be drifted off can only be done while they are still in the case. Drifting or pulling are the only way, a brass drift will not harm the parts.(I would hate to try put that trans. up on a press)

www.southwestgear.com

 

I'll snap a couple pics when I wake up (I work nights) to let you guys see for yourself. But so far, thanks for the insight. What a wealth of knowledge this place has.