2000 F150 4X4 120K+ I have been having the P0401 code over the past 14 months. I change the DPFE and it goes away for 3-4 months. A month ago that fix lasted 10 miles. I used the Haynes trouble shooting and it appeared I had more problems. I changed the EGR VALVE, EGR VACUUM VALVE, and the DPFE. I had also bought the EGR TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD TUBE because I figured it may be clogged between the two lines to the DPFE. The nut holding the tube to the exhaust manifold was rotted 75% off (hard to see with heat shield covering it). Replaced all the above, cleared codes, test drive was like brand new truck. The next time I drove it, it was a nightmare!! #7 & #8 missfires, Muliple missfires, P0401, P1151. Swapped #7 plug and Coil Pack with #2. Codes changed to #8 missfire, P0401 & P1151. Cleared codes have driven 100+ miles and now only getting P0401 and P1151 Pending. Drives rough part of the time. I can not find any exhaust leaks.
HELP!!!

Gus

 

I have replaced my pressure feedback sensor twice now and it too only last for a few months. I have a 2001 Ford Ranger with 3.0 liter Vulcan V-6 engine, 5-speed manual and two wheel drive. It is now just over 80k Miles. It's been doing this since I got it last year at only 62k miles.

 

Just in case it applies: DO NOT USE AFTER-MARKET DPFE SENSORS! In many reported cases, they only last a few months.

The ones from Ford were re-designed to withstand the moisture and heat of the system and are now much, much better than were the originals.

BTW, unless the EGR system is properly diagnosed, it wall cause the unwary to waste considerable time and money trying to fix it.

Where have you guys been buying those sensors?

Steve

 

Steve is correct about buying OEM only. I had the same issue with my 96, and once I did buy the one from Ford, I never had an issue afterward.
Rich

 

I don't see that you removed the throttle body and cleaned the EGR ports. Those ports clog up and cause a P0401.

 

Since the posting I did pull the throttle body and it was plugged up, also the tube from the exhaust manifold was rotted off at the nut. Replaced tube and cleaned the TB. Had good luck all winter and about a week ago got a P1401, swapped out the DPFE an older one and then the code changed back to a P0401. I have not look at the TB again yet of bought a new DPFE yet.

 

Auto Zone for me. Buying the sensor from the dealer cost an arm and a leg. I was quoted $150 versus $72 from Auto Zone. Some Ford repair shops do not sell parts directly to the customer, you'll have to make arrangements for them to install the sensor. Labor is what? $95 per hour now! Two hours in the shop and a $150 sensor. That only $340.

 

I've never seen a Ford dealer where they don't sell parts over the counter to anyone with cash, check, or a credit card. Of course, some will charge over list price... You're quite likely either a) mistaken or b) exaggerating.

There are site sponsors and other internet sites that will sell you genuine Ford or Motorcraft parts for 30-50% off list. You just have to do your homework.

Keep buying those AZ DPFE sensors. That way, you'll get plenty of practice replacing it.

Steve

 

I'll Google those web sites that were mention. I can't do anything as of now since I paid my truck loan. I'm currently cleaning empty homes on the market for a realtor company, as well as mowing lawns and also repairing mowers. When I build up enough dough, I'll get the genuine article.

I have taken out the EGR valve, tested it with a hand vacuum pump (Mighty Vac) and it opens and closes very smoothly. Also cleaned it out. Checked both the pipe and port. Both are quite clean. Blew out the rubber hoses with compressed air and water. Made certain they were totally dry before reinstalling them.

Seems when I do tests to the vacuum soleniod, it runs good for a while. I did check the hoses from cracks. They all look good from what I can see. I have the "Vulcan" (Star Trek) V-6 engine - 3 liter. After changing the engine oil it's more quite in operating temp.

Did use higher octane only cause I picked up the wrong hose. Didn't change anying in the pinging noise. Only here that if I lug the engine at too low of rpm.

Engine cooling system has been drain, flused and refilled as I bought the truck. I made certain of that before I signed any papers. I had too many times of buying a newer used vehicle where I had to replace the water pump about 6 to 9 months down the road. The service garage also put on a new serpentine belt as the old one was cracked.

As to the mpg for my Ranger standard cab - short bed 2WD pickup, I drive allot easier tham most drivers do. We tested the speedometer with a GPS and it is at most 1.2 mph faster (0.8 on average) than what I am actually going - tested between 45 to 65 mph. The mpg is a bit lower this year than last year do to more stations selling E-10 mix.

As to dealer cost - what I said previously is what I was told. Whether the guy was just jacking around with me or what, I don't know. But I will Google for those other web sites. I would much rather get the same OEM part as cheap as possible since I am on a tight budget.

Maybe even check out Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts, Truck Parts & Auto Body Parts Online - Free Shipping on most Auto Accessories & Performance Parts - AutoPartsWarehouse where I bought an EGR valve for a 1999 GMC Jimmy SLT for $180 where the GM dealer wanted $250 for the exact same Delphi part.

Thanks for the info

PS: What an arangement of smileys

 

I bought a DPFE from O'Reilly's a few years ago. It looked just like the Ford part-even had the Ford part number stamped on it. It lasted about 50 miles. I replaced it with the genuine article-which only cost about 10 bucks more from the dealership-and its been good ever since. I'd say try to find a different dealership.

 

I checked the paperwork on the purchase of my Ranger. The DPFE was replaced prior to me financing this Ranger pickup from a Ford dealer - they used OEM part. I called them yesterday and they said it was the newer version DPFE they installed. But that sensor only lasted about 6 months, nearly the same amount of time as the Auto Zone part.

The dealer also said that it could very well be something else causing the problem. Possibly faulty O2 sensors, worn plugs, worn vacuum solenoid or hoses/connections, modified ECM or reprogramming of the ECM. In other words it can be a whole hosts of things causing the truck to run rough.

Kinda ironic that going to Kalamazoo it ran beautifully. Coming back though it ran rough at the beginning and ran smooth afterwards. Seems to me something sticking caused be heat buildup from shutting off the engine for a while. After the heat is pumped out by the cooling fan, it runs better.

 

Been chasing the P0401 for over a year. 97 F-150 4.6L. Changed the EGR valve, trouble light went out for a while then came back. Finally took the throttle body off and cleaned it out real good. The two EGR ports were plugged almost close. Seems to have done the trick. Trouble light hasn't been back. Probably didn't even need the new EGR valve. My advice for anyone else with this code is to remove and clean the throttle body first.

 

A simple thought when replacing sensors. Are you guys removing the negative battery cable while doing the repairs/replacements?