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I got me a 130Amp. G3 alternator Saturday. Pick and Pull price $20.00. You can check it out in my Tech Gallery. Went pretty smooth I should have put my pully on it the one it came with was a little bigger. I'll be finishing up my E-Fan conversion this week and posting pictures in my gallery when finished.
Wow nice work dude. How did you know which alternator was 130amp when you were at the Pick-n-Pull? Did you need to change that mounting bracket or is that the stock one on your truck? How did you make the new 12 and 6 o'clock holes line up? I'm thinking I might want to do this swap too (you inspired me).
Don't forget you need to upgrade your charge cables too. Details on FordFuelInjection.com
Last edited by Skandocious; Sep 23, 2007 at 10:49 PM.
Well, I checked the G3s out on FFI and the crossreferenced the Taurus alts. at Autozone and all Taurus 3.8s have 130Amps. My stock bracket already had holes for the 130, I guess because it was an option for my truck. The charge cables already have the two 12ga. fusable links too. I ran it with everything on for about 30 min and the cable to the alt. never got hot.
I need to bump mine up one of these days. The way I'm going to do it is get a reman alternator and the charge cable for it from FFI.
As for not running a heavier charge cable... I guess you could get away without it, but it would safer to run a heavier gauge just for safety (and not to have a fire come out of no-where like the old 2Gs.)
Damn... That sounds ENTIRELY too easy. Can anybody confirm that the charge cables don't need to be replaced when upgrading from my 95amp to 130amp?
That would depend on if you are actually going to draw ~130 amps or not. If in doubt, just do a big 3. I would not feel comfortable with 12 gauge if I were drawing ~130 amps. I have a 130 amp 3G on my van and I did a 0 gauge big 3 and it works very well. And just because the cables are not getting hot does not mean that the cables are sized properly.
Like I said in an earlier reply my cable and the Taurus cables were the same gauge. The Taurus has a lot more power hungry options than my truck. My owners manual lists two 12ga. fusable links for the 130Amp alt and thats what I have. It's not going to catch fire, it will only melt the fusable links, and it's not going to do it parked it would have to be under full load or dead short.
I am not saying it wont work, I am just saying it is not ideal. When it comes to stuff like this, going by what Ford did is not always best because there is often a better way.
. And just because the cables are not getting hot does not mean that the cables are sized properly.
Amen to that. If you can feel ambient heat in your cable... you already have problems.
If you have any high priced electronics... amplifiers, capacitors, wired Sirius or XM radios... don't run the stock cable. If you'd like insurance against an alternator fire underneath your hood, spend the $20 and replace that wire.
I have the 160 amp alternator from www.fordfuelinjection.com... I didn't pay for the charge cable he advertised but I did re-create my own from stereo equipment.
If I start to have any problems I will definitly go to the larger cable and fuse that FFI suggests, but for now everything is fine. I trust Fords competence on their products, but their Explorers do catch fire.
If you have any high priced electronics... amplifiers, capacitors, wired Sirius or XM radios... don't run the stock cable. If you'd like insurance against an alternator fire underneath your hood, spend the $20 and replace that wire.
I have the 160 amp alternator from www.fordfuelinjection.com... I didn't pay for the charge cable he advertised but I did re-create my own from stereo equipment.
Don't cheese-out on this component. Not worth it.
Mike
It seems to me that if you are running stereo gear + a big alt you would need to do more than just replace that wire. That wire (alternator to battery positive) in addition to engine block to frame + frame to battery negative should all be upgraded in order to get the most out of the electrical/charging system not to mention the stereo itself assuming it is grounded to the chasis.
If I start to have any problems I will definitly go to the larger cable and fuse that FFI suggests, but for now everything is fine. I trust Fords competence on their products, but their Explorers do catch fire.
Competence is one thing, but going with the bare minumum on certain things to cut costs and to ease assembly at the factory is another. Ford may be competant, but there are many things that can be improved on that Ford could have done from the get go but did not just to cut costs and ease assembly thus further cutting costs.
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