Ok, I found info on here and changed my oil pump and pan gasket. It took some doing, but I got it all back together. The truck started right up...oil pressure gauge went up to half, and there were no leaks. I let her idle for a little while in the drive, then took her out for a drive. The oil pressure gauge went down a little, but stayed in the normal range. When I was almost home, it was going back down below normal at an idle and the motor developed a little click. The oil level is good. I was afraid that maybe I didnt get the pump seated with the rod up to the dizzy, but the pump went up to the block by hand real easy with the rod in the pump. Plus, the pressure went up right after I started her. So, Im thinking all is good down there. What can I do about the tick? Thanks!

 

Try to find out where the tick is coming from; lifter, rocker arm, etc. and go from there.
I run Valvoline 50W Racing oil in all of my cars.

 

hogbus, If your truck has a FE engine in it, and if it has some miles on it, you need not to be overly concerned with oil pressure. The oil feed in that series is aimed at the top of the engine rather than the crank, and the pressure is monitored at the oil filter near the crank.

The engine bearings expand once they get hot and allow more oil to pass through reducing the pressure at idle. The engine is getting oiled in most cases.

Most of us know that sitting still and idling the FE will get overheated quickly because most don't have a fan shroud like the newer vehicles do. I let mine get a little hot shortly after the engine was rebuilt and noticed the oil pressure dropped to 3-4 pounds. I quickly got the truck moving and with air flowing again, the pressure returned while the temp came back.

I can not buy into the 50W oil theory. Using a thicker oil (more resistance to move through the small openings) to get pressure up does not seem right to me. The auto industry is going to lower weights like 5W30 and 0W30 to get better lubing while some fans here are pushing mud through their systems to see a higher number on a gauge. The FE a 1950s design was last used in 1976.

John

 

I don't run the 50W Valvoline Racing oil because it's thicker, I run it because it's one of the few oils that still contains a large amount of the additive ZDDP (zinc), which is necessary for flat tappet camshaft longevity.
The reason that the auto industry can now run the lighter weight oils that don't contain ZDDP is because there are no more flat tappet designed engines being manufactured. Everything is roller these days.

 

good info! i have a 72 f-100 with a 360. Not sure it is an FE though. Its got a fan shroud...before the oil pump swap, the pressure was good when driving then went down below normal at every stop. now, its lower but still in the normal range when driving....its only dipped down below normal a few times. Ive just recently got it running again after being not driven for 5 years....the mechanics that worked on it put 10-40 QS (I know...ewww..QS), so Im thinking about draining the oil, replacing the 10-30 with 10-40 (NOT QS) and replacing one quart with some rislone. Ive pretty good luck with that in other engines. Maybe some Seafoam too...it worked pretty well on the crown vic I had. The only thing concerning me is the ticking...dont want to cause any damage....its gonna be a year or more before i can rebuild the engine.

 

I would not worry about a little tappet/lifter noise. I'm running a 20/50 syn racing oil in mine. I have some variable lift hydraulic lifter in it. These make a little noise at idle, but soon as you get above 1000 rpm they quiet down. If you install a gage and see what it's actually running, you only need 5psi / 1000 rpm to protect a engine with a good grade oil. But your hyd lifter generally like around 25psi.

I'm not sure I would use a 0-30 oil. These FE engines were not built with the high tolerance the newer engines use. I would look at a 15-40 diesel grade oil. It will give you a higher film strength than a non diesel (don't remember the SAE class S?). And should reduce the valve noise and reduce oil consumption (ring blow by).

 

why would you not just use the 10w30 like the truck is supposed to?

 

You can use 10w30. You just need to check the temp band for your area. 30w normally is not recommended if you have ambient temp in the 95-100F range. In my area this applies, or switch to syn and most any viscosity weight will work. I run a 0w30 in all my cars. Lighter the visc the better your gas mileage will be, unless you are do towing. Then you need a heavier oil.

Years ago (60-70s) most mfg had a problem with multi visc grade oils, the reason most ran single weights. The additive used would break down and cause rings to stick. With the modern oils these do not apply provide you change your oil on a regular interviles.

 

Run the weight oil that makes you happy be it single or multi weight for your truck and how its worked then get yourself some of GM's E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant. It's also used as a run-in for breaking in a new cam and new motors. Helps prevent scuffing. My happy mix 1 oz per/quart in the truck all the time plus other flat tappet vehicles even if they have a cat.
I bet this gives better protection overall than whats available with modern oils including 20/50 race oil with none for regular oils.

 

Buy all the GM EOS that you can now. GM is discontinuing EOS.

 

I am using Rotella 15w40. My rebuilt engine has less than 1k on it and I want make sure there is enough zinc in it for the break-in. I may run it permanently on the stuff.

 

Now that's a bunch of bad news to hear about.
There must be an additive for us to use on performance
motor builds like the aftermarket.
Any reason why GM's stopping this product?

 

No, I don't know why they're discontinuing the EOS. I heard the news on 460ford.com
I know Comp Cams makes a break-in additive.
I did a Google search a while back and came up with a few companies offering an additive but I don't know how reputable they are. I know the EOS has been a proven product.

 

Just when your feeling happy with protection (not Trojan's) they change the program. I'm not wanting to waste a 40 year old CJ cam I have besides other flat tappet motors like the 56 Porsche Speedster motor. Screw the EPA on this one.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

I heard the majority of the diesel grade oils, such as Rotella, still have all the good additives. However I did buy two cases of EOS!!!! I think this winter when I build the 428 for the T-Bird I'll just spend the extra $$$$ and go roller cam and lifters, thought. Think I'll save the EOS, still like the solid lifter cams!!!! Engine builder buddy of mine suggested break-in on a new engine with Rotella 15-40, then switch to a synthetic....