My Aero has pre-90 V-6 Vulcan 3,0L, several year ago I've changed the thermostat housing for a new one cause I had a massive leak. These last four days I've crossed France side to side to bring my elder son to his architecture school where he begin next monday, when returning home a cooling liquid smell increased slowly in my van; at home I've seen liquid around the thermostat housing. On my model the housing fit with two bolts, I think later it came with three; at this time I'm scratching my head and asking if this is not a reccurent problem in this engine.
To add another problem I think I've been "flashed" today with a laser radar by the "Men in Blue" (the french "Gendarmerie") on the highway over 110 Km/h. Pffffff........

 

That's a possibility, but I would not rule out the ends of the heater hoses which are also in that area. They have a tendency to develop leaks about where the clamps are.

 

Pinceau,
What cookkd said is true. Alot of times the worm style clamps if run down too tightly will start to draw the rubber out and away from its body through the side slots of the clamps. My best recommendation for you is to simply loosen the clamps. Pry or slide the hose off of its connection and then cut away an inch or two of the suspected trouble end of the hose. Reinstall it, but with a newer, wider clamp. I've noticed wider clamps (wider band area) being sold. They would work better for you in the long run since they are designed to secure more of a wider space. This allows for more even distribution and cancels out the "cutting" that I suspect is happening to you.

note: when I replace my hoses whether heater hoses or larger radiator hoses, if you get with the auto retailer that is selling the hoses-ask for them to bring the whole lot out. The reason is this. There are some companies that will make larger/longer replacement hoses so when you ever come up on a possible emergency you'll have the added length to remove an area of hose and still be able to drive down the road.----Respectfully-Boz

 

Just as an afterthought......The end of the hose is kind of bell shaped and it narrows down to the standard size (5/8 or 1/2 don't know which). The entire hose costs an arm and a leg from the Stealer, almost 200 bucks if I think. NAPA has a replacement that is only about a foot long. It has the larger diameter that fits on the nipple and then narrows down to the correct size. Cut the old hose and use a plastic connector to join old to new. Saves a bunch of bucks.......

 

Cut the old hose and use a plastic connector to join old to new. Saves a bunch of bucks.......

The thought is great, but if you over tighten the clamp you can create a stress crack thus recreating your original problem. If you choose to go this route simply go to your local hardware/plumbing store and buy a 3 to 4" piece of steel pipe to fit into the diameter of the suspected problem hose. Push it inside the hose opening about at least an inch and a half then run the clamp down on the hose. Other than it metal being hot to the touch you'll have a more permanent fix.

One other idea is this. Go to any local parts dealer and request the colored dye that you can put inside of your cooling system. Instead of making this a guessing game-you'll have a definite answer. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.---Boz

 

Find a matereal like "paraneet" of 3 mm thikness, make a gasket (with skissors), use silicone germetic and ride for joy!

 

thanks for your advices, dear friends; in France parts cost the two arms and legs (for example an A4LD tranny cost 4600€!!) and alternatives solutions are welcome; I stay too much in the original parts. I'll try to fix this problem like this.

 

Ford Ranger PU's and many of the Ford mid/compact cars of the 80's and 90's came with the Vulcan engine

sources for your thermostat housing coolant outlet pipe

electrolysis is a problem in many newer rigs because of failed small corroded off grounding straps and all the dissimilar metals in engine cooling system

try putting new ground straps from engine to frame and from heater core and radiator to frame

 

let me disagree. Ford used many componets usual for american cars in europe. 2.9 Cologne engine has the same thermostat, like vULCAN, BUT MADE BY Valeo, A4LD is usual on Scorpio and Sierra, but U have to use stock bellhousing for Vulcan. Your problem is really easy to solve, very easy and U can make this gasket yourself. With scissors.....

 

my apologizes pinceau
I misread your post and thought the housing or pipe had corroded thru

do check the sealing surfaces for corrosion pitting
pablo has set you on the right course
lots of silicone RTV automotive grade rated silicone sealant

years ago, before silicone RTV, we used thick axle grease on paper water pump and housing gaskets. lasted forever and prevented corrosion
but messy to clean up

 

I agree with you, but I think I've not been enough clear in my problem description, in fact, for obscures reasons my previous thermostat housing has warped more than a millimeter, this phenomenon came slowly to finish in a massive leak. I'm really bored because this problem hurt my mechanic habits, I'm a Stakhanovist of torque wrench, Loctite, grease, and eventually gasket coumpound. If Ford changed this part for a three bolts housing that was to solve a problem here I think.

With regard to corrosion I've heard and seen amazing things; for example in one of my previous car, a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup". On each side of the removables sleeves there was a vertical line of heavy corrosion, a serial of holes, like casting bubbles; showing that to a friend, a motorcycle mechanic and moto-cross champion, he said: "Strange, is not it? this is particular to this engine, few others develop this symptom; you have to jump rubber engine supports with big straps and it's done. Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."

 

I'm a Stakhanovist of torque wrench
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Now i reccomend U to have less enthusiasm and be cool. Threads in aluminium parts are easy to damadge. Have U ever rethread holes? I had to do it......

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a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup".
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That's why ford newer used Pegeout 2.1L diesel, but 2.0, 2.3, 2.5 and 2.8 diesels by Pegeout. 2.1 is overbore 2.0 that's why gasket si so weak.
Now ford use developed on Pegeout Duratorq diesel.

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Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."
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It is true. Fortunatly panes have air-colled engines, but in Russia gasoline airctraft engines are very rare, exept of old AN-2 (pick-up truck with wings), sport planes like Yak52 ore Su sport series.....


Well. My recomendation. Change coolant every year and flush cooling system.

 

If the housing is Aluminum it will be affected easily by rapid Heat/ cool cycles that can occur due to air in the system. Aluminum is notorious for warpage & distortion in engines. I think in this engine it is very important to purge out the air, since this type of intermittant cooling in the system could warp or damage areas in the water jackets /heads etc which can lead to ominous coolant leaks which cannot be easily traced !
A sign of this could be "cyclic" movement of the temperature gauge needle (even after a new thermostat is fitted). If there are small blockages in the system also air will be very difficult to get out.

 

If the housing is Aluminum it will be affected easily by rapid Heat/ cool cycles that can occur due to air in the system. Aluminum is notorious for warpage & distortion in engines. I think in this engine it is very important to purge out the air, since this type of intermittant cooling in the system could warp or damage areas in the water jackets /heads etc which can lead to ominous coolant leaks which cannot be easily traced !
A sign of this could be "cyclic" movement of the temperature gauge needle (even after a new thermostat is fitted). If there are small blockages in the system also air will be very difficult to get out. Also a weak water pump could cause similar problems.