Cooling liquid leak
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: south of France
Cooling liquid leak
My Aero has pre-90 V-6 Vulcan 3,0L, several year ago I've changed the thermostat housing for a new one cause I had a massive leak. These last four days I've crossed France side to side to bring my elder son to his architecture school where he begin next monday, when returning home a cooling liquid smell increased slowly in my van; at home I've seen liquid around the thermostat housing. On my model the housing fit with two bolts, I think later it came with three; at this time I'm scratching my head and asking if this is not a reccurent problem in this engine.
To add another problem I think I've been "flashed" today with a laser radar by the "Men in Blue" (the french "Gendarmerie") on the highway over 110 Km/h. Pffffff........
To add another problem I think I've been "flashed" today with a laser radar by the "Men in Blue" (the french "Gendarmerie") on the highway over 110 Km/h. Pffffff........
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Pinceau,
What cookkd said is true. Alot of times the worm style clamps if run down too tightly will start to draw the rubber out and away from its body through the side slots of the clamps. My best recommendation for you is to simply loosen the clamps. Pry or slide the hose off of its connection and then cut away an inch or two of the suspected trouble end of the hose. Reinstall it, but with a newer, wider clamp. I've noticed wider clamps (wider band area) being sold. They would work better for you in the long run since they are designed to secure more of a wider space. This allows for more even distribution and cancels out the "cutting" that I suspect is happening to you.
note: when I replace my hoses whether heater hoses or larger radiator hoses, if you get with the auto retailer that is selling the hoses-ask for them to bring the whole lot out. The reason is this. There are some companies that will make larger/longer replacement hoses so when you ever come up on a possible emergency you'll have the added length to remove an area of hose and still be able to drive down the road.----Respectfully-Boz
What cookkd said is true. Alot of times the worm style clamps if run down too tightly will start to draw the rubber out and away from its body through the side slots of the clamps. My best recommendation for you is to simply loosen the clamps. Pry or slide the hose off of its connection and then cut away an inch or two of the suspected trouble end of the hose. Reinstall it, but with a newer, wider clamp. I've noticed wider clamps (wider band area) being sold. They would work better for you in the long run since they are designed to secure more of a wider space. This allows for more even distribution and cancels out the "cutting" that I suspect is happening to you.
note: when I replace my hoses whether heater hoses or larger radiator hoses, if you get with the auto retailer that is selling the hoses-ask for them to bring the whole lot out. The reason is this. There are some companies that will make larger/longer replacement hoses so when you ever come up on a possible emergency you'll have the added length to remove an area of hose and still be able to drive down the road.----Respectfully-Boz
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 624
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by bozzzz94
Pinceau,
What cookkd said is true. Alot of times the worm style clamps if run down too tightly will start to draw the rubber out and away from its body through the side slots of the clamps. My best recommendation for you is to simply loosen the clamps. Pry or slide the hose off of its connection and then cut away an inch or two of the suspected trouble end of the hose. Reinstall it, but with a newer, wider clamp. I've noticed wider clamps (wider band area) being sold. They would work better for you in the long run since they are designed to secure more of a wider space. This allows for more even distribution and cancels out the "cutting" that I suspect is happening to you.
note: when I replace my hoses whether heater hoses or larger radiator hoses, if you get with the auto retailer that is selling the hoses-ask for them to bring the whole lot out. The reason is this. There are some companies that will make larger/longer replacement hoses so when you ever come up on a possible emergency you'll have the added length to remove an area of hose and still be able to drive down the road.----Respectfully-Boz
What cookkd said is true. Alot of times the worm style clamps if run down too tightly will start to draw the rubber out and away from its body through the side slots of the clamps. My best recommendation for you is to simply loosen the clamps. Pry or slide the hose off of its connection and then cut away an inch or two of the suspected trouble end of the hose. Reinstall it, but with a newer, wider clamp. I've noticed wider clamps (wider band area) being sold. They would work better for you in the long run since they are designed to secure more of a wider space. This allows for more even distribution and cancels out the "cutting" that I suspect is happening to you.
note: when I replace my hoses whether heater hoses or larger radiator hoses, if you get with the auto retailer that is selling the hoses-ask for them to bring the whole lot out. The reason is this. There are some companies that will make larger/longer replacement hoses so when you ever come up on a possible emergency you'll have the added length to remove an area of hose and still be able to drive down the road.----Respectfully-Boz
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 463
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Cut the old hose and use a plastic connector to join old to new. Saves a bunch of bucks.......
The thought is great, but if you over tighten the clamp you can create a stress crack thus recreating your original problem. If you choose to go this route simply go to your local hardware/plumbing store and buy a 3 to 4" piece of steel pipe to fit into the diameter of the suspected problem hose. Push it inside the hose opening about at least an inch and a half then run the clamp down on the hose. Other than it metal being hot to the touch you'll have a more permanent fix.
One other idea is this. Go to any local parts dealer and request the colored dye that you can put inside of your cooling system. Instead of making this a guessing game-you'll have a definite answer. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.---Boz
The thought is great, but if you over tighten the clamp you can create a stress crack thus recreating your original problem. If you choose to go this route simply go to your local hardware/plumbing store and buy a 3 to 4" piece of steel pipe to fit into the diameter of the suspected problem hose. Push it inside the hose opening about at least an inch and a half then run the clamp down on the hose. Other than it metal being hot to the touch you'll have a more permanent fix.
One other idea is this. Go to any local parts dealer and request the colored dye that you can put inside of your cooling system. Instead of making this a guessing game-you'll have a definite answer. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.---Boz
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: south of France
thanks for your advices, dear friends; in France parts cost the two arms and legs (for example an A4LD tranny cost 4600€!!) and alternatives solutions are welcome; I stay too much in the original parts. I'll try to fix this problem like this.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
Ford Ranger PU's and many of the Ford mid/compact cars of the 80's and 90's came with the Vulcan engine
sources for your thermostat housing coolant outlet pipe
electrolysis is a problem in many newer rigs because of failed small corroded off grounding straps and all the dissimilar metals in engine cooling system
try putting new ground straps from engine to frame and from heater core and radiator to frame
sources for your thermostat housing coolant outlet pipe
electrolysis is a problem in many newer rigs because of failed small corroded off grounding straps and all the dissimilar metals in engine cooling system
try putting new ground straps from engine to frame and from heater core and radiator to frame
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
let me disagree. Ford used many componets usual for american cars in europe. 2.9 Cologne engine has the same thermostat, like vULCAN, BUT MADE BY Valeo, A4LD is usual on Scorpio and Sierra, but U have to use stock bellhousing for Vulcan. Your problem is really easy to solve, very easy and U can make this gasket yourself. With scissors.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
my apologizes pinceau
I misread your post and thought the housing or pipe had corroded thru
do check the sealing surfaces for corrosion pitting
pablo has set you on the right course
lots of silicone RTV automotive grade rated silicone sealant
years ago, before silicone RTV, we used thick axle grease on paper water pump and housing gaskets. lasted forever and prevented corrosion
but messy to clean up
I misread your post and thought the housing or pipe had corroded thru
do check the sealing surfaces for corrosion pitting
pablo has set you on the right course
lots of silicone RTV automotive grade rated silicone sealant
years ago, before silicone RTV, we used thick axle grease on paper water pump and housing gaskets. lasted forever and prevented corrosion
but messy to clean up
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: south of France
I agree with you, but I think I've not been enough clear in my problem description, in fact, for obscures reasons my previous thermostat housing has warped more than a millimeter, this phenomenon came slowly to finish in a massive leak. I'm really bored because this problem hurt my mechanic habits, I'm a Stakhanovist of torque wrench, Loctite, grease, and eventually gasket coumpound. If Ford changed this part for a three bolts housing that was to solve a problem here I think.
With regard to corrosion I've heard and seen amazing things; for example in one of my previous car, a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup". On each side of the removables sleeves there was a vertical line of heavy corrosion, a serial of holes, like casting bubbles; showing that to a friend, a motorcycle mechanic and moto-cross champion, he said: "Strange, is not it? this is particular to this engine, few others develop this symptom; you have to jump rubber engine supports with big straps and it's done. Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."
With regard to corrosion I've heard and seen amazing things; for example in one of my previous car, a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup". On each side of the removables sleeves there was a vertical line of heavy corrosion, a serial of holes, like casting bubbles; showing that to a friend, a motorcycle mechanic and moto-cross champion, he said: "Strange, is not it? this is particular to this engine, few others develop this symptom; you have to jump rubber engine supports with big straps and it's done. Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."
Last edited by pinceau; Sep 30, 2007 at 04:19 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
I'm a Stakhanovist of torque wrench
_____________________________
Now i reccomend U to have less enthusiasm and be cool. Threads in aluminium parts are easy to damadge. Have U ever rethread holes? I had to do it......
__________________________________________________ _______________
a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup".
__________________________________________________ _______________
That's why ford newer used Pegeout 2.1L diesel, but 2.0, 2.3, 2.5 and 2.8 diesels by Pegeout. 2.1 is overbore 2.0 that's why gasket si so weak.
Now ford use developed on Pegeout Duratorq diesel.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."
__________________________________________________ ___________________
It is true. Fortunatly panes have air-colled engines, but in Russia gasoline airctraft engines are very rare, exept of old AN-2 (pick-up truck with wings), sport planes like Yak52 ore Su sport series.....
Well. My recomendation. Change coolant every year and flush cooling system.
_____________________________
Now i reccomend U to have less enthusiasm and be cool. Threads in aluminium parts are easy to damadge. Have U ever rethread holes? I had to do it......
__________________________________________________ _______________
a Peugeot 504 with Indenor 2,1L diesel; an antique and fragile engine winning the "broken head gasket World Cup".
__________________________________________________ _______________
That's why ford newer used Pegeout 2.1L diesel, but 2.0, 2.3, 2.5 and 2.8 diesels by Pegeout. 2.1 is overbore 2.0 that's why gasket si so weak.
Now ford use developed on Pegeout Duratorq diesel.
__________________________________________________ ____________________
Believe me or not, an aircraft old mechanic said to me that it's the piston moving in the sleeve, it generate static electricity and arcing between bloc and sleeves; the jumper strap cancell the phenomenon, how and why, I don't know."
__________________________________________________ ___________________
It is true. Fortunatly panes have air-colled engines, but in Russia gasoline airctraft engines are very rare, exept of old AN-2 (pick-up truck with wings), sport planes like Yak52 ore Su sport series.....
Well. My recomendation. Change coolant every year and flush cooling system.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 830
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by pinceau
My Aero has pre-90 V-6 Vulcan 3,0L, several year ago I've changed the thermostat housing for a new one cause I had a massive leak. These last four days I've crossed France side to side to bring my elder son to his architecture school where he begin next monday, when returning home a cooling liquid smell increased slowly in my van; at home I've seen liquid around the thermostat housing. On my model the housing fit with two bolts, I think later it came with three; at this time I'm scratching my head and asking if this is not a reccurent problem in this engine.
.
.
A sign of this could be "cyclic" movement of the temperature gauge needle (even after a new thermostat is fitted). If there are small blockages in the system also air will be very difficult to get out.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by pinceau
My Aero has pre-90 V-6 Vulcan 3,0L, several year ago I've changed the thermostat housing for a new one cause I had a massive leak. These last four days I've crossed France side to side to bring my elder son to his architecture school where he begin next monday, when returning home a cooling liquid smell increased slowly in my van; at home I've seen liquid around the thermostat housing. On my model the housing fit with two bolts, I think later it came with three; at this time I'm scratching my head and asking if this is not a reccurent problem in this engine.
.
.
A sign of this could be "cyclic" movement of the temperature gauge needle (even after a new thermostat is fitted). If there are small blockages in the system also air will be very difficult to get out. Also a weak water pump could cause similar problems.
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