First,how the heck do i get the dowel pins out of a FE head?Two stayed put but two are in the heads.
Also,anyone know a online source for FE torque specs and sequence for 352 heads?Thanks

Now the tip for those that might not know:
I was removing a set of headers from a dead 360 i have and coudn't get to the bottom bolts for nothing.Expecially 2,3&6,7.I just dug through my many tools and grabbed my MatCo 7/16 horseshoe wrench and man did that do the trick!!!Perfect for those underside bolts,all done from up top!A little slow going but the perfect wrench.

Thanks for any help!

 

Grab on to them with a pair of needlenose and they should come out. Here are your torque specs and sequence. Top row of numbers is the intake side.

9 5 1 3 7
10 6 2 4 8

First round should be 70 ft lbs
Second round should be 80
Finish off with 90.

I like to put 10 more pounds on the longer bolts to get the actual torque closer to the same amount.

Oh yeah, I usually get under the truck and get the bottom header bolts from there. Much easier.

 

Hey dude,aprecciate your great help!!!Those specs will be handy tomorrow

As for the dowels ans header bolts,the dowels are flush and cant knock them though other side cause of bolt hole bore is same as ID of dowel pin.I wish i could get some pliers on them.Is is a big deal to leave two dowels(one on each head )in the head?Or is the head postionining super important even though all bolt hols line up?
You would be right on the lower header bolts but i was working on a junkard truck with no tires in the mud.So folks keep that wrench in mind of getting them off a truck you cant get under.

 

I guess the junkyard removal would be better off done from the top. Junkyard dirt is some of the nastiest stuff in the world. I would get the dowel out somehow and install it before you put the head on. They are there for properly locating the head and gasket to the block.

 

Bend and grind up a L shaped punch to get the dowels out
THEY ABSOLUTELY NEEDED !!

>Grab on to them with a pair of needlenose and they should
>come out. Here are your torque specs and sequence. Top row
>of numbers is the intake side.
>
>9 5 1 3 7
>10 6 2 4 8
>
>First round should be 70 ft lbs
>Second round should be 80
>Finish off with 90.

Well I'd be going 40, 60, 80, 100, on ALL the bolts,
Using a good lube on threads and under heads.
Clean threads and ensure holes are empty.
If you get "cracking" as you torque you need better lube or bigger steps( eg 40 70 100). Make sure it is a steady/smooth motion.

Too much tension the first pass can cause the gasket to squeeze towards the ends. I fact for Alloy heads I usually do the first low tension sequence reversed.

The 1/2 inch bolts are a long way from elastic/twist limit and good lube and smooth motion negates having to have different setting for different length. If you use a moly lube you may have to back the setting off or face over tensioning the bolts. International Compound is great it is a GM 2-Stroke Diesel product.

>I like to put 10 more pounds on the longer bolts to get the
>actual torque closer to the same amount.

 

I have been told you want the gasket to squeeze out a little when you torque them down. That is the reason for the sequence. Edelbrock says to put the 10 extra even on their chrome moly bolts. The torque steps I used I got from steve christs book when I did aa set of gaskets with iron heads. I used the edelbrock instructions on my alloy heads which I don't remember what they were.

 

Thanks for the help guys.I will get the pins out somehow then.
As for the the torque secquence i have built many,many engines and am new to FE's.So i will just take rats orig plan.
Thanks again!

 

This is dangerous, but in order to get the dowel pins out of some diesel engine in the shop, one of the mechanics heated around the dowel causing the dowel to literally shot out!, but don't be looking down and watching from the top, its like a 22 bullit.....BE CAREFUL!!!


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