This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".

After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal whch should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.

 

GREAT TIP... thanks...and welcome to FTE..

 

Very good info to have, thank you. WELCOME TO FTE.

 

The bit about heating the plug to keep it from striping I would like to understand better. When I was a teenager I worked a few months at a truck tire shop and we would often heat the nuts on a big wheel to get them off since the heat would make the nut expand and hence be slightly bigger than the stud.

So if you heated the plug as mentioned above then wouldn't it expand inside its threaded hole and become more difficult to remove?

 

One theory is that when the plug is heated it in fact does expand and at the same time will break any corrosion bond between the thread surfaces.
When it has cooled down somewhat, it is easy to remove as mentioned above without damaging the threads.

 

I'm guessing that the heat is to break loose the locktight which would also save the threads

 

Great write-up! Props given.

 

That is truly an excellent first post. Again, welcome aboard.

 

Very nice first post. Reputation points given Welcome to FTE. I see you being a big asset to this place in the future.

 

Thanks everybody!

To answer the question about the heat, in the instructions it was stated that the heat breaks down the loctite thus allowing easier plug removal (like piotrsko said). Even if your threads are a little mangled, I would still attempt this repair because the replacement plug has about 1/8" more threads on it than the original plug and this will allow the plug to engage threads that were previously unused. I actually performed this repair over the weekend and so far there are no leaks. However it is taking about twice as long to start in the morning than it did before I did the repair. I am going to hope that this is due to there being air in the lines but I really don't think that there is because even upon the first engine start after the repair was completed there was never a stumble, hiccup, pop, wheeze, miss or anything and the trucks runs smooth. Any suggestions?

 

Welcome aboard. This tip goes in my 7.3 maintenance binder! You get some rep points from me too .

Ernie .

 

Excellent contribution right from the start. Thanks, and WELCOME to FTE!!!

 

Just an update to my question about my extended cranking times, I put a few more miles on her and everything is back to normal now.

 

Has anyone else done this repair?

I take it the part number is for a kit from International.

 

Old post with great info for HPOP leak repair.

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This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".

After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgeable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal which should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.

Further into this thread it was"assumed" that the heating was to loosen the Loctite. Fat Baster further stated that the repair/replacement plug is
"Over sized" to compensate for any thread loss.

Rog