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For the first time in 3 years I saw headlights !!!
I tested the new harness with 2 amp. on the bat. charger, I have turn signals thru column, flashers, headlights, indicators on dash for turns and high beam, interior light and a hit on the starter from the push button starter (2 amps wont spin it...just clics like a dead battery).
Horn doesnt work...?
Next step is to install coulumn for now, fab-up the throttle cable and linkage, choke cable and put gas in her....prime oil pump, battery in and .....we'll see from there.
Best case senario.......she fires right up
worst case....wires melt, I crack a cold one and start saving for a o.e.m.
harness and 12 v. kit or I re-wire completly from raw wire on spools!
I have appreciated all of the advice everyone has given me up to this point...I will keep progress posted....THANK YOU ALL
later, Ed
Good work! Is your horn stock? 2 amps probably won't do anything. If it is the stock 6v horn, you might want to take it off and pull the "bowl" off the end. Then you can adjust the screw there with the horn connected to the battery (12v), to make the right sound on 12v. Doesn't hurt to clean the points too.
Yep F-1, my horns are stock. I know about the screw you're referring to and was planning on "playing" with the tones when they worked. I didnt think about low amp not being able to sound them, just thought they would be weak. I cleaned and painted and have meter-checked for circuit so I know they are grounded.
I'm off work tomorrow and plan on tinkering. If I get fussed at by my wife for the time spent I can just tell her ...at least I'm not building a pizza oven in my backyard like my brother! Now the heat is on him!!!
I hope everyone had a great weekend
later, Ed
William, next to the starter, your horn requires the most current. The headlights and heater motor like plenty of current also. When you get the power to it the horns they will talk to you. I will be thrilled like you when I hear my engine turn over and see some lights responding to power.Keep up the good work.
Later, Mike
Last edited by birdman1; Sep 23, 2007 at 09:52 PM.
Gas, Water, Oil, Electrical...check
battery borrowed from my toyota truck...check
54 Ford y-block 239....click-click-click ?????
New start selenoid...check
I guess the battey having only 12.5 volts of charge aint gonna roll the old 239 dinasour over...battery charging and cold beer break time!
Ed
I'm getting a fast, repeated "click" at selenoid when trying to start.
I had bought a new one, specified for 12volt setup. The one I got was the 3 post (batery, starter switch and out to starter) not the later 4 post type(two big on ends and two small posts in the middle). The selenoid has "12v" stamped into the top so I assumed it was a 12v unit just in an old style???
Could this still be a 6v sel. and it just wont pass the current to the starter because its looking for more amps to push thru???
Battery check is now showing apx. 13.3 but after a couple of tries it drops to
about 12.7 or so.
what do ya think?
ED
Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, at the battery posts, cable ends or at the starter. Or possibly a starter problem.
You could try hooking battery booster cables directly from the battery to the starter.
I would use some jumper cables and jump straight to the starter like Morris suggested. If it still won't turn over by going straight to the starter then the starter has some problems or is bound up....more frosties, more time
Thanks, Jumper cables is a good idea, I'll give it a try in the next couple of days. Play time is over, I have to go back to work this week.
I'll post the progress, thanks again, Ed
William, next to the starter, your horn requires the most current.
Very true. Consider adding a relay to power the horn if you don't already have one. Aftermarket wiring systems usually come with two (one for headlights and another for the horn) but some original wiring replacement systems may not. I salvaged one from my donor car that was originally used for power door locks since I used the OEM wiring from that car. All modern vehicles use a relay for horns. Some of the older ones were wired directly. My 48 did not have one originally.
Congrats on the progress!
Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Sep 25, 2007 at 07:31 AM.
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