So frustrated?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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So frustrated?
My engine keeps giving me codes indicating a misfire. But I changed my plugs and wires a few months ago. Do you think I need a new distributor cap? Or should I just get a whole new tune up? I want to do it my self but I dont have time. How much is a tune a the ford dealer for just plugs and a cap? 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L manual
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
A 1996 Ranger has a cap and rotor? I would have though everything was coil fired by then. Come to think of it, I think my dad's 2.3 is coil pack. Lots of things can trigger a missfire, have you considered a faulty injector? What kind of plugs did you use.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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1996 2.3L doesn't have a distributor. It has two coil packs, each with four plugs. Each pack contains two coils which fire on two paired cylinders, (one on compression, one on another's exhaust strokes). That makes eight spark plugs.
One of your coil packs may be going bad, there might be something wrong with the ICM, or your fuel system may not be up to par. I'd check the packs resistance from the center connector prong to one of the outside connectors, (primary resistance). It should be around 5 ohms, if memory serves correctly. Not exactly, just not too high. Procedure for checking secondary resistance can be found in a service manual like Haynes or maybe Chiltons, (haven't read that one yet). I'd also check the fuel pressure both with just the key on, running, and then with the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. They should be within specifications listed in the manual as well. Also, check the fuel filter while you're at it. No real test, but if you've never replaced it before it might be a good idea.
If all of these check out, replace the plugs and wires with either Motorcraft or Autolite wires and double-platinum plugs. Reason for the double-plats is that the plugs undergo more wear with the "waste-spark" system described above.
If this doesn't fix anything, it might be your ICM or 'puter. Take it to a diagnostics shop. It will save you much time and money throwing cash at the problem and having it not work. I thought we had my computer fixed, (ironically, the exact same truck as yours. '96 2.3L 5-spd. Dad and LSP mechanic though it was the connector into the computer. Drove it to school yesterday, but didn't make it home), but it turns out no. So far, cheapest PCM we found was at CarQuest, but you still have to have it programmed. The dealership can get you one pre-programmed according to the serial numbers, for an absurdly higher price...
Best of luck. Hope this all clears up, (speaking from someone who did their advanced math and calculus studying on the side of the road yesterday
).
One of your coil packs may be going bad, there might be something wrong with the ICM, or your fuel system may not be up to par. I'd check the packs resistance from the center connector prong to one of the outside connectors, (primary resistance). It should be around 5 ohms, if memory serves correctly. Not exactly, just not too high. Procedure for checking secondary resistance can be found in a service manual like Haynes or maybe Chiltons, (haven't read that one yet). I'd also check the fuel pressure both with just the key on, running, and then with the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. They should be within specifications listed in the manual as well. Also, check the fuel filter while you're at it. No real test, but if you've never replaced it before it might be a good idea.
If all of these check out, replace the plugs and wires with either Motorcraft or Autolite wires and double-platinum plugs. Reason for the double-plats is that the plugs undergo more wear with the "waste-spark" system described above.
If this doesn't fix anything, it might be your ICM or 'puter. Take it to a diagnostics shop. It will save you much time and money throwing cash at the problem and having it not work. I thought we had my computer fixed, (ironically, the exact same truck as yours. '96 2.3L 5-spd. Dad and LSP mechanic though it was the connector into the computer. Drove it to school yesterday, but didn't make it home), but it turns out no. So far, cheapest PCM we found was at CarQuest, but you still have to have it programmed. The dealership can get you one pre-programmed according to the serial numbers, for an absurdly higher price...
Best of luck. Hope this all clears up, (speaking from someone who did their advanced math and calculus studying on the side of the road yesterday
).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Wouldn't there be an EDIS module that controlled the firing of the coils? It can be removed and tested at a parts house. Is it a P030X type code? The X indicates which cylinder is misfiring, or if random misfire, is another (un-remembered) digit.
If you used high quality wires, and decent plugs, most likely they are not the problem. You can idle the engine in the dark to determine if there is leakage through the wire insulation. Leakage will show as arcing to ground, or slight glows from the plug wires.
tom
If you used high quality wires, and decent plugs, most likely they are not the problem. You can idle the engine in the dark to determine if there is leakage through the wire insulation. Leakage will show as arcing to ground, or slight glows from the plug wires.
tom
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by markfh11q
1996 2.3L doesn't have a distributor. It has two coil packs, each with four plugs. Each pack contains two coils which fire on two paired cylinders, (one on compression, one on another's exhaust strokes). That makes eight spark plugs.
One of your coil packs may be going bad, there might be something wrong with the ICM, or your fuel system may not be up to par. I'd check the packs resistance from the center connector prong to one of the outside connectors, (primary resistance). It should be around 5 ohms, if memory serves correctly. Not exactly, just not too high. Procedure for checking secondary resistance can be found in a service manual like Haynes or maybe Chiltons, (haven't read that one yet). I'd also check the fuel pressure both with just the key on, running, and then with the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. They should be within specifications listed in the manual as well. Also, check the fuel filter while you're at it. No real test, but if you've never replaced it before it might be a good idea.
If all of these check out, replace the plugs and wires with either Motorcraft or Autolite wires and double-platinum plugs. Reason for the double-plats is that the plugs undergo more wear with the "waste-spark" system described above.
One of your coil packs may be going bad, there might be something wrong with the ICM, or your fuel system may not be up to par. I'd check the packs resistance from the center connector prong to one of the outside connectors, (primary resistance). It should be around 5 ohms, if memory serves correctly. Not exactly, just not too high. Procedure for checking secondary resistance can be found in a service manual like Haynes or maybe Chiltons, (haven't read that one yet). I'd also check the fuel pressure both with just the key on, running, and then with the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. They should be within specifications listed in the manual as well. Also, check the fuel filter while you're at it. No real test, but if you've never replaced it before it might be a good idea.
If all of these check out, replace the plugs and wires with either Motorcraft or Autolite wires and double-platinum plugs. Reason for the double-plats is that the plugs undergo more wear with the "waste-spark" system described above.
Originally Posted by tomw
Wouldn't there be an EDIS module that controlled the firing of the coils? It can be removed and tested at a parts house.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Rock, that just shows to go ya! My stuff is old, including grey cells, so I comment from experience more than book knowledge. Guess my skill set needs updating, or maybe the vehicles sitting out on the drive.
I thought I had read somewhere that the coil packs were persnickety about their grounding, and if removed, all original fasteners were needed to ground everything properly. Seems that some don't bother with putting them all back, leading to problems down the road, FWIW.
tom
I thought I had read somewhere that the coil packs were persnickety about their grounding, and if removed, all original fasteners were needed to ground everything properly. Seems that some don't bother with putting them all back, leading to problems down the road, FWIW.
tom
