gear change
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 893
Likes: 8
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
gear change
i am going to change gears from 3.55 to 4.10. what extra things am i going to need? Ex. new crush sleeves, ring gear bolts, washers, nuts, shims, pinion and carrier bearings, pinon seal? any of those things or any other things besides thread locker rear cover seal those kinds of things and could I get them from a local parts store.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Please take no offense when I ask this, but... If you need to ask which parts are required for the job are you sure that you're qualified to do the swap? It is a bit more complicated than you might think. There is a lot of trial and error that must be done to ensure a proper installation (no whines, clunks, and most importantly, wearing/breakage).
EDIT: If you feel confident enough to take this job on, then the easiest way to go about rebuilding a differential is to buy a rebuild kit for your axle, which contains all the needed parts for the job (seals, bearings, shims, crush sleeves, etc etc). Also remember that you are crossing the 3.73 threshold for the front axle and you'll need to replace your carrier with one that can be used with 4.10s. Lastly, don't forget that the front axle is not a regular d44 but a high pinion/reverse rotation.
I think for a brand I would go with a well known name. It is not worth it to save a few bucks with gears because it is such a critical component in the drivetrain. I have heard good things about Auburn and Yukon, not sure about the others. Isn't Richmond kind of a budget brand?
EDIT: If you feel confident enough to take this job on, then the easiest way to go about rebuilding a differential is to buy a rebuild kit for your axle, which contains all the needed parts for the job (seals, bearings, shims, crush sleeves, etc etc). Also remember that you are crossing the 3.73 threshold for the front axle and you'll need to replace your carrier with one that can be used with 4.10s. Lastly, don't forget that the front axle is not a regular d44 but a high pinion/reverse rotation.
I think for a brand I would go with a well known name. It is not worth it to save a few bucks with gears because it is such a critical component in the drivetrain. I have heard good things about Auburn and Yukon, not sure about the others. Isn't Richmond kind of a budget brand?
Last edited by Skandocious; Sep 19, 2007 at 10:17 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: CANADA
Most gear/parts places can supply complete install kits to go with your new gear sets. No thinking involved. Some even come with set up bearings I hear. Doing it yourself? Got the tools? A Good cleaner, New oil, and friction modifier if necessary. Its wise to get a new pinion shaft lockpin (not sure if it would come in a kit)
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 893
Likes: 8
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
my dad is a mechanic and he would be helping me with it. just looking up parts to see total cost or at least an estimate of the big parts. I did see install kits avaliable. but we already have lock tite and gasket material, lubes and oils, cleaners, markers those kind of things that came in this install kit and there are other things that my dad can get through work that is why i was asking. and a post on here said that you can use the same carrier bearing just seeing if that is right or not. To me i would say that you need a new one since you are changing ratios.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Not just your carrier bearing... The entire carrier housing. I believe the spider gears get reused.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
SKAN did you change your gears or did it come with 4.10 if you changed them how much of a change did it make in your pickup
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
The carrier is the assembly the holds the spider gears and the ring gear around it. It is also the component that holds a locker or limited-slip if your truck is equipped. I just had my gears changed from 3.55s to 4.10s two days ago and it made a big different in acceleration and throttle response; the truck doesn't feel like its struggling to get going anymore, just feels kind of weightless. Most importantly, it will help me tow my new boat.
Here's a picture of the carrier out of my rear end (I had it replaced with a new Ford Trac-Lok), I forgot to take a picture of the front carrier:
The housing is the big shell that houses the spider gears and related parts (the most prominent part of that picture) You can see the spider gears in the opening on the right side.
Here's a picture of the carrier out of my rear end (I had it replaced with a new Ford Trac-Lok), I forgot to take a picture of the front carrier:
The housing is the big shell that houses the spider gears and related parts (the most prominent part of that picture) You can see the spider gears in the opening on the right side.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 893
Likes: 8
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
ok thanks that is what i thought it was. is there any tips that you can give us the only rear ends that my dad has worked on where in big trucks.
with your taurus fans did you upgrade your alt. that is the biggest reason why i havent done that yet is i cant get any straight answers from that.
with your taurus fans did you upgrade your alt. that is the biggest reason why i havent done that yet is i cant get any straight answers from that.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
I didn't swap the gears myself so I can't really offer too much advice about the actual procedure. I toyed with the idea but decided it was better to leave to the professionals after I researched it a bit and found out how hard it is to get it RIGHT. I know there are instructional DVDs on the internet that walk you through the steps. Mike (Mr. M) knows where to find those, maybe he'll get on here sometime and comment.
As for the Taurus fan, I have the stock 95amp alternator that came in my truck and it does just fine on the fan's low speed. On the high speed the fan does pull my battery gauge down a considerable amount, about 10-20% depending on engine RPMs. To be honest, I only even need to run the fan about 5% of the time and even then, the low speed pushes MORE than enough air. I have the high speed on a switch in the cab just in case I really need to chill the engine FAST. I would like to upgrade to the 130amp so I could use the high speed without worrying for my alternator, but I really don't think it's necessary. I haven't realized any adverse effects due to this mod so far...
As for the Taurus fan, I have the stock 95amp alternator that came in my truck and it does just fine on the fan's low speed. On the high speed the fan does pull my battery gauge down a considerable amount, about 10-20% depending on engine RPMs. To be honest, I only even need to run the fan about 5% of the time and even then, the low speed pushes MORE than enough air. I have the high speed on a switch in the cab just in case I really need to chill the engine FAST. I would like to upgrade to the 130amp so I could use the high speed without worrying for my alternator, but I really don't think it's necessary. I haven't realized any adverse effects due to this mod so far...
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 893
Likes: 8
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
ok thank you for all your info it has been a help. if i think of any more i will post. by the way i like your pick up i almost got a red one just like but when i found it the had sold it that day. i was very disappointed.
you can check how big your alt is with a multimeter right?
you can check how big your alt is with a multimeter right?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Thank you for the compliment.
And I can't imagine that using a multimeter would be a very accurate way of testing the alternator, because it produces different amps at different RPMs.
What year and engine is your truck? Is the alternator regulator fan internal or external?
Internal (3G and most likely 95amp):
External (2G and most likely 75amp):
And I can't imagine that using a multimeter would be a very accurate way of testing the alternator, because it produces different amps at different RPMs.
What year and engine is your truck? Is the alternator regulator fan internal or external?
Internal (3G and most likely 95amp):
External (2G and most likely 75amp):