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Looking at my block heater cord where the prongs are today, and the cord is severed and useless. Just wondering if the part numbers are the same for all of the 7.3 from early 99 to 2003. I have a early 99 and am already aware that not all parts cross-over from year to year. Thanks for the help guys!!
I believe that that particular part is standard across virtually all model years, as it is simply a 110 volt power supply cord going straight to the thermocouple in the engine block. In fact, you can simply splice in a good short power cord end as a replcement, or also splice back together the existing cord where it is severed. If you use a new cord, make sure not use a 16 or 18 gauge cord due to the power load.... need to use a 14 gauge cord to be safe.
I've read somewhere in this forum that the cord can get pinched and either start a fire or get severed as yours did. Might want to try to tie it outta the way or re-route. The pinch point should be obvious if that's how the cord got severed
You're right, Curtis... mine just arrived last Friday so I can get it installed before I have to start using the heater again. I wasn't as careful as I thought, and I actually outsmarted myself when I bought my plug. I found the 20-amp plug for $2 less than the 15-amp version, so I ordered it to get "extra insurance". Turns out that the 20-amp version has an odd shaped plug blade arrangement, and now I have to get a new female plug end for my cord so I can use the darn thing (there were no pictures of the plug blades before I ordered, and I'm not of the "electrical kind" to have known better by default).
My actual heater wire got damaged last season right where it goes into the factory molded/sealed plug. I started to look for the complete replacement factory cable with plug and boy was I shocked. Anyway, I went to a electrical shop ( I guess you could also go to Home Depot) and got a heavy duty outdoor 15amp replacement plug and also encased the existing cord from the block to the new plug in some of the corrugated plastic loom wire wrap. Works like a charm and sure beats the stealership cost! Hope this helps!
Mine went bad where you plug in the extension cord. I cut off the end and spliced in a piece I cut off of a short extension cord from Home Depot. If you do this make sure the cord you use is at least 12 gauge and use the shrink wrap butt splices to make a weather tight seal at the splice.
thanks guys, goes anyone know if the heating element is the same part number across the board like the cord is? When I did plug my truck in last year it didn't seem to make a difference in ease of starting, and with 171,000 miles, I wouldn't be surprised if the element was bad.
Yes, you could, but if you find that the circuit is open (infinite resistance) it just tells you the circuit is open. You will then need to check the heater itself to determine if the cord is the problem, or the heater.
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