I have a 71 F250 equipped with a 360 and C6
The rear seal was leaking like a seive...
The local Napa store told me it could either have a rope or rubber seal. I took one of each. Once I got the oil pan/rear cap off I noted that it had a rope. (crappy luck) While attempting to pack the upper seal for repair, the seal rotated and I managed to remove the top part of the rope. Rather than attempt to install the top half of the new rope I chucked it and installed both parts (halves) of the rubber seal. Went together without a hitch (followed directions with new seal) Did I mess up or is this newer type seal still compatible with my leaker seal engine? I think it is as I ordered a rubber seal from TA performance for a 350 Buick a few years ago (it to was equipped with a rope seal) and low-and-behold I received a 429 Ford rubber seal. I installed it and it worked perfectly!

My next question...I located the torque rating for the mains but can't find anything on the oil pump to pickup tube. What is this torque requirement? Also what should the oil pan bolts be torqued to? I am going to try and get this beast back together tomorrow morning...A quick reply would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Steve G.
Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada

 

Steve, the newer style rubber seal should work fine, and the oil pump pickup tube gets 12-15 ft/lbs. I've never torqued my oil pan-just always snugged it up.

 

Thanks. I put it all together and it seems to be working OK. Still leaks a bit (few drops) not like the lake it used to. When they get old and worn out I guess sometimes you just can't get them to stop leaking completely (maybe slight groove in crank or something) I had a Chebby like that years ago, spent a fortune rebuilding it and then changed the rear crank seal three times and couldn't get ot to stop leaking.....POS!