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Can't get mine to crank. Just put the motor back in after a complete tear-down. I've checked the firing order three times and it's right. The engine acts like the valves are opening at the wrong time(popping back through carb.). Installed a new timing set while I had it tore down and I had a friend check it to make sure i did it right. I also tried moving the dist. around while trying to crank and nothing changed. I set #1 at TDC and ran the firing order CCW. Anybody got any ideas?
You are probably 180 out on the ignition timing. There are two points in 1 engine cycle that the piston is at the top. One time is to ignite the fuel air mixture and start on the power stroke. The next point is when the exhaust has been expelled and the piston is ready to move down and bring new air/fuel in. Try turning the rotor 180 degrees and putting it back in place.
Well, when I set the dist., I had the crank at TDC and set the #1 plug and started the firing order from there. I feel like the dist is ok and the chain is one cog off. I'll know when i get more time to look at it. Thanks.
What I am trying to say is that there is 2 TDC points per cycle. A right one and a wrong one. The only way you could possibly tell is to watch the valves move.
Changed the timing 180deg and got it to crank but it runs like crap. I'm not sure yet whether it's a carb. problem, timing or firing order. it got dark on me and I had to quit tinkering. I have to hold the acc. about half way to keep it running and it still sounds like it has a skip. Maybe i'll get into it again tomorrow.
What I have done when the timing is off and the truck barely runs is to move all the wires either backwards or forwards around the dist. cap. This way, if it does not crank, I can just move wires the opposite way vs. moving the distributor again and hoping I get the timing within a 20 degree arc. Then, once the engine has run a few minutes and is warm, then I try adjusting the distributor with a light.
One way I have thought about making sure you are at TDC on the intake stroke is to remove plug #1 at TDC, pour oil into the spark plug hole and hand crank the engine to TDC again. If the oil spills out, you were on the exhaust stroke, if it gets sucked in, you were on the intake stroke.
Some books recommend putting a cord in there to see if it gets sucked in or out, but, after having lost an object in a spark plug hole I am a little leery about putting in anything non fluid.
>One way I have thought about making sure you are at TDC on
>the intake stroke is to remove plug #1 at TDC, pour oil
>into the spark plug
This could foul the plug when you put it back in, or even hydrolock the engine which is really bad for rods, starters, etc.
To determine 180 degree errors I use my compression tester and a timing light. Hook up the #1 plug wire through the spark plug resting on the block or other ground. Point the timing light at the dial of the compression tester and crank the engine. If the needle "kicks" at the same time as the flash you have it in correctly on the compression stroke; if the kick and the flash are separated by 1 crankshaft revolution it's 180 degrees out. It's easy to tell the difference.
I got it going today. It turns out the timing was off 180+. I also had some carb. problems. Once I swapped the carb. out and played with the timing a little, I got her running slick as a whistle. My problem now is the tranny. I've had to do some fab. work and I'm catching h*&^ getting it back in. Gonna try again tomorrow.
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