Project Lazarus
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Project Lazarus
Hey everybody, I'm new to this forum.
Here goes:
My truck
-1978<o></o>
-F150 Supercab<o></o>
-2wd<o></o>
-351M<o></o>
-C6 auto<o></o>
My 1978 Truck has not seen action since 1993. Almost 14 years, it has sat in the yard. I have decided to get it running again. The engine and trans was rebuilt completely in 1989. It has about 5k on the new engine.
<o></o>
After 14 years of non-use, what steps do I need to take to get the old 351M/C6 running again?
<o></o>
I am not a mechanic.
-Paul
Here goes:
My truck
-1978<o></o>
-F150 Supercab<o></o>
-2wd<o></o>
-351M<o></o>
-C6 auto<o></o>
My 1978 Truck has not seen action since 1993. Almost 14 years, it has sat in the yard. I have decided to get it running again. The engine and trans was rebuilt completely in 1989. It has about 5k on the new engine.
<o></o>
After 14 years of non-use, what steps do I need to take to get the old 351M/C6 running again?
<o></o>
I am not a mechanic.
-Paul
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
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From: Southern Delaware
prime the oil pump, drain the gas and refill, take off carb and clean it. inspect plugs, wires and cap., flush coolant/radiator. inspect the trans fluid and level. just cover the basics. but I would def. prime the oil pump, which requires pulling the dist.
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What about the gasoline? I'm pretty sure the tank was never emptied and may need replacement. Should I drain it and try to clean it out? Anybody done that before can give any tips?
oh and thanks 79150toy!
-Paul
oh and thanks 79150toy!
-Paul
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After a few minutes of research, I found how to do the gas tank.
I got the truck moved today from our back pasture to the short grass, it wasn't easy, almost all the tires were gone.
My initial inspection shows that the radiator core was emptied, the gas tank was filled to full. I think that may have saved my gas tank and core. The battery is still connected but not working. Everything else looked as the same as it was when I was in High School. I even noticed the dipstick for the 351M was in the front.
One major problem, tho, the hose between the radiator and the water pump had been cut off leaving the water pump exposed and it appears from initial visual inspection to have rusted pretty good. Is that a major problem or just get a new water pump and good to go? Or does corrosion creep further into the block? I'm kinda scared now.
Anyone want to see pictures? I can post a link to my flikr acct.
-Paul
I got the truck moved today from our back pasture to the short grass, it wasn't easy, almost all the tires were gone.
My initial inspection shows that the radiator core was emptied, the gas tank was filled to full. I think that may have saved my gas tank and core. The battery is still connected but not working. Everything else looked as the same as it was when I was in High School. I even noticed the dipstick for the 351M was in the front.
One major problem, tho, the hose between the radiator and the water pump had been cut off leaving the water pump exposed and it appears from initial visual inspection to have rusted pretty good. Is that a major problem or just get a new water pump and good to go? Or does corrosion creep further into the block? I'm kinda scared now.
Anyone want to see pictures? I can post a link to my flikr acct.
-Paul
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
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From: Southern Delaware
I wouldnt be too concerned with it. I would just run plain water in it to flush it. Then, pull the t-stat, inspect it and flush the whole system. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge, to make sure it doesnt overheat. Then replace the pump if need be. It would suck to replace the pump, just have all the gunk in the engine screw it up and replace it again.
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your right, the thermostat is right there on top. It appears corroded.
Also the bottom hose appears intact to the radiator.
Should I replace all the belts and hoses? They appear to be dry rotted on initial inspection.
And would good old soap and water clean the engine bay out? It is covered with years of old nuts that squirrels hidden and mud dabber nests.
-Paul
Also the bottom hose appears intact to the radiator.
Should I replace all the belts and hoses? They appear to be dry rotted on initial inspection.
And would good old soap and water clean the engine bay out? It is covered with years of old nuts that squirrels hidden and mud dabber nests.
-Paul
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Senior User
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From: Southern Delaware
suprisingly, ive started engines worse looking than that.In fact, my engine bay on my daily driver looks worse. the belts are intact, so before you put new belts on, you should make a thorough assessment of the overall condition of the engine. Putting belts on a seized engine wouldnt help unstick the pistons or crank. just spray a little bit of wd40 on the belts. But pulling the t-stat and inspecting it and replacing the hoses would be good idea. Also, see if you can turn the crank by hand after you prime it.
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Well I finally got time to sit underneath the beast.
The drain plug stripped. It seems frozen. It was a big bolt head, 7/8's I don't think that was factory.
Should I worry about the oil that is in there?
Any shortcuts to avoid pulling the distributer? big mess of wires I want to avoid.
I am about 2 inches from yanking this motor and putting in another one. Never was happy with this one anyway.
-Paul
The drain plug stripped. It seems frozen. It was a big bolt head, 7/8's I don't think that was factory.
Should I worry about the oil that is in there?
Any shortcuts to avoid pulling the distributer? big mess of wires I want to avoid.
I am about 2 inches from yanking this motor and putting in another one. Never was happy with this one anyway.
-Paul
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Main reason wasn't engine, it was wiring, durn thing kept catching on fire. under hood, behind dash. Stupid wiring is dry rotted but should be enough to start at the moment.
I still gotta drain the gas tank. whee! (that was a sarcastic whee).
-Paul
I still gotta drain the gas tank. whee! (that was a sarcastic whee).
-Paul