1973 429 problems
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1973 429 problems
Hi everyone, I just picked up a 1973 F-100 4x4 with a 429 and a 4 spd
The truck was off the road for a few years and I drove it from the previous owners house to my house (15+ miles)
Truck ran great up until I pulled onto the road right in front of my house.
When I pulled out I tried to get on it more than I had before and it started spitting and sputtering and backfiring.
It limped the rest of the way to my house, the more gas I gave it the worse it would backfire and then halfway up the driveway (uphill) it just didn't have enough power to move
It would idle and if I gave it gas with the clutch in it would rev up but when I would let the clutch out it would just spit and sputter and backfire and not go anywhere
I pulled it the rest of the way up the driveway then about 5-10 minutes I started it up and moved it around the yard and it seemed to run good again.
I took the distributor cap off and the terminals are so corroded I can't believe it ran at all but if this was the cause I think it would have ran rough all the time??
I ordered a carb kit and am going to try rebuilding the carb first because I noticed it leaks gas anyway (its a Motorcraft 4300)
Thanks for any help
The truck was off the road for a few years and I drove it from the previous owners house to my house (15+ miles)
Truck ran great up until I pulled onto the road right in front of my house.
When I pulled out I tried to get on it more than I had before and it started spitting and sputtering and backfiring.
It limped the rest of the way to my house, the more gas I gave it the worse it would backfire and then halfway up the driveway (uphill) it just didn't have enough power to move
It would idle and if I gave it gas with the clutch in it would rev up but when I would let the clutch out it would just spit and sputter and backfire and not go anywhere
I pulled it the rest of the way up the driveway then about 5-10 minutes I started it up and moved it around the yard and it seemed to run good again.
I took the distributor cap off and the terminals are so corroded I can't believe it ran at all but if this was the cause I think it would have ran rough all the time??
I ordered a carb kit and am going to try rebuilding the carb first because I noticed it leaks gas anyway (its a Motorcraft 4300)
Thanks for any help
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 201
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Congrats on what sounds like a fun truck to own & drive!
The first thing I'd do is toss the points & condenser -"Pertronix" makes a cool drop-in ignitor that nobody will know is there except you.
Second, I'd toss the 4300 carburetor as there is no support for it unless you have a barn full of old books & parts. The 4100 was a better carb, but it suffers for the same reason: no parts (read jets) so one can't experiment, or fine tune. This is one area where a Holley 4150 or Edelbrock will pay off handsomely.
Having said that, the I'd start with an oil change. Go with something light like 5W-30 and change it at 500 mile intervals 2 or 3 times, then go with a quality 15W-40 like Delo 400. Change the fuel filters often too as there is bound to be gunk in the tank, and knowing Murphy well, it will find its way to your newly rebuilt carburetor.
It has been my experience that older 429/460s that burn oil do so not because they are worn out, but because the valve stem seals are shot. It's an easy fix. So if the engine has never been overheated, it should run for 200,000 miles. The only other weak link on high-mileage units is the timing chain itself.
The first thing I'd do is toss the points & condenser -"Pertronix" makes a cool drop-in ignitor that nobody will know is there except you.
Second, I'd toss the 4300 carburetor as there is no support for it unless you have a barn full of old books & parts. The 4100 was a better carb, but it suffers for the same reason: no parts (read jets) so one can't experiment, or fine tune. This is one area where a Holley 4150 or Edelbrock will pay off handsomely.
Having said that, the I'd start with an oil change. Go with something light like 5W-30 and change it at 500 mile intervals 2 or 3 times, then go with a quality 15W-40 like Delo 400. Change the fuel filters often too as there is bound to be gunk in the tank, and knowing Murphy well, it will find its way to your newly rebuilt carburetor.
It has been my experience that older 429/460s that burn oil do so not because they are worn out, but because the valve stem seals are shot. It's an easy fix. So if the engine has never been overheated, it should run for 200,000 miles. The only other weak link on high-mileage units is the timing chain itself.
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Senior User
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Hello, Thanks for the reply
I'd like to toss the motorcraft carb for a Holley or Edelbrock but I don't have the money right now so I'll see if I can get this one working good
Also someone already converted it over to the Duraspark ignition
I'd like to toss the motorcraft carb for a Holley or Edelbrock but I don't have the money right now so I'll see if I can get this one working good
Also someone already converted it over to the Duraspark ignition
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Smart conversion with the Duraspark! I suspect filthy gas tank syndrome on the sputtering, along with the cap and rotor.
Might want to install a clear sight fuel filter to see what is trying to come out the tank. I would also keep a new fuel pump around as a spare.
Might want to install a clear sight fuel filter to see what is trying to come out the tank. I would also keep a new fuel pump around as a spare.
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Hi thanks trino
I was thinking that junk in the tank might be part of the problem because there is a fuel filter that screws into the carb inlet and than also another one in the line, so it appears someone else was having troubles with dirt in the tank.
The one in the line is a metal one, I'm going to replace it with a clear one
I was thinking that junk in the tank might be part of the problem because there is a fuel filter that screws into the carb inlet and than also another one in the line, so it appears someone else was having troubles with dirt in the tank.
The one in the line is a metal one, I'm going to replace it with a clear one
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Yeah, the screw-in one is factory, but it is nice to have a clear one too. I found them near impossible to find in Canada; Haven't looked here in US yet...
Might want to do all the tuneup tricks like spark plug wires too, just to have a solid starting point when ruling out other problems...
As ugly as it sounds, pulling the fuel tank may be in your future... The bolts holding the straps can be almost welded in place from rust. I think new tanks are reasonable, and probably come with new straps and bolts, unless you can clean your tank out sufficiently, and maybe just buy new bolts...
Might want to do all the tuneup tricks like spark plug wires too, just to have a solid starting point when ruling out other problems...
As ugly as it sounds, pulling the fuel tank may be in your future... The bolts holding the straps can be almost welded in place from rust. I think new tanks are reasonable, and probably come with new straps and bolts, unless you can clean your tank out sufficiently, and maybe just buy new bolts...
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