When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow, I finally got my dad's '68 running, maybe only on 4 cylinders, but it runs. For those of you who don't know, I have been trying to get my dads 68 running, but it hasnt run in about 20 years. I have swapped fluids, new carb, blah blah blah..... My question is this.....does it hurt it to run diesel through the oil system (while the engine at idle) to clean out the crap and get the valves unstuck and get it back to running on all 8 clyinders. I have heard of people doing this, but I don't know if it is a particular ratio, or if you can run just straight diesel in place of the oil and change it after 10 minutes of running. I don't think that that would be a good idea, but I've never done this before, so I don't know. Appreciate any help with the subject, thanks guys.
Normally you fill the crankcase with diesel and let in soak. Then remove the plugs and turn in over by hand, with the valve overs removed so you can watch the valves.
Personally NO I would not. ATF, yes if a lifter was sticking. But only 1 qt.
First of all congrats are in order, the feeling of accomplishment and saving something is a dang good feeling.
Secoundly, I have ran diesel in oilling sstems for awhile after getting the motor running and it works and I believe without harming any components. This was before I heard that ATF type F does the same thing if not better, in the future I will go with typre F.
thanks for the congrats, it was a great feeling the first time we turned the key off of run to let the starter cool and it kept turning over real rough.....it was a "oooh its alive!!" kind of feeling
I'll try the Type F I suppose, whats the difference B/T type F and Mercon?
Tpe F as I know it is the only ATF that uses the cleaning lubricate element that we are looking for, for free up valves and what not.
Another trick I use is to put 2 stroke oil in your gas. Sounds strange but todas unleaded is pretty dry and beats the heck out of these old gas guzzlers.
I wouldn't recommend running straight diesel or more than a quart of ATF for that matter.Both will do a good job at removing sludge but the downside is the sludge ends up in the oil pan where it tends to block the oil pump pickup screen.
If you have that many stuck valves pulling the heads may be the only option.
the valve seals are probably shot so you could allways pull the valve covers(this would be a good idea anyway to check for bent pushrods) and soak the valve stems down with pb blaster and pull the valve back up then turn over the engine.repeat as many times as it takes workin them open and closed
I knew a guy who did the same thing with varsol. He put in fresh oil, and a new filter, but replaced 2 qrts of oil with 2 qrts of varsol. He'd run it in the driveway for a few minutes until the lifters started to tick. Then he'd change the oil and filter, replacing 1 qrt of oil with 1 qrt of varsol, and run it again for a few minutes until it rattled. Then he'd change the oil and filter a third time, and be good to go. He said he'd done this a few times on different engines, and never had any problems. He's an "old school" certified mechanic, so I'm sure he knew what he was talking about, it does sound kind of dangerous though.
We used diesel on the old 292s & 312s, but ATF seems to work just as well. Pulling the pan and rocker covers is sometimes the only option for a "keeper". I once dejunked an old Lincoln with similar problems. The car ran fine so long as it never saw the highway. Anyway, the car was in such good shape we pulled the pan and cleaned it properly. (Another Quaker State horror story)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.