Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
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Junior User
Joined: May 2002
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Just got a call from the machine shop and am told that my block is cracked around one of the freeze plugs. This is a 390 out of a 75 F-250 2WD Crewcab with a C6. What are my options at this point? Could a crack in the block be fixable? Where would I find a replacement block, approximate price, and will it be guaranteed to clean up ok? What are my other engine options that will bolt up to a C6? I wouldn't mind staying with a 390 since I already have a presumably good intake and set of heads, but what are my options?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Los Alamos, NM
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Thats too bad, sorry to hear about it. If the machinist didn't say anything about it being repairable, thats probably an indication that its not a good idea. You should be able to find a 360 pretty easily, as the only differenct between a 360 and a 390 is the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons), which is usually the hardest part to come up with. 360s are more common and less desirable, generally speaking. You are probably looking at $100-200, maybe alot less, for a block at a junk yard. Also, the only thing that will match your tranny is another FE: 352, 360, 390, etc. Good luck!
Jayson
Jayson
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Bill, if you are anywhere close to North Carolina I-85 exit 175, I can help. My email is below. 
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 962
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From: Collierville, TN
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
That is reasonable -- jump on it. You can disassemble it, use the block for your rebuild, and sell the crankshaft, rods, heads and miscellaneous parts on ebay or elsewhere for twice what you paid for the motor. A complete running 360 or 390 goes for $300-350 around here (Memphis), and parted out a 390 will bring $400-650.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Brea CA
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Old Blue Crew, just curious what the casting number on the block is (under the alternator). I have a D3TE block that has a crack between the freeze plugs on the passenger side. Have heard that these early FE block castings from the Michigan Casting Center had some problems and were crack prone.
Barry
Barry
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Jun-02 AT 01:34 PM (EST)]I didn't see a casting number directly under the alternator, but C5AE-A was cast on the right side of the block at the front, just around the corner from the alternator. Is this the # you're looking for? I also have DIF (Detroit Iron Factory?) cast on the block.
Picked up the block today and there is a 1.5" crack coming out of the front left freeze plug, as well as two cracks about 1/2 inch above the right rear plug, each 1-1.5" running parallel to each other. Looks like she is toast.
Bill
Picked up the block today and there is a 1.5" crack coming out of the front left freeze plug, as well as two cracks about 1/2 inch above the right rear plug, each 1-1.5" running parallel to each other. Looks like she is toast.
Bill
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Post Fiend
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From: Brea CA
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Thanks Bill, those are the numbers. C5AE-A is a ’65 390, that’s a pretty old block for your truck, must have been replaced before. I believe DIF stands for Dearborn Industrial Factory. Did it get below freezing over there sometime? Usually the blocks break out in the lifter valley.
Barry
Barry
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
> Did it get below freezing over there
>sometime? Usually the blocks break out in the lifter
>valley.
>
>Barry
Yeah, we had a heck of a winter, and while my coolant tested at -20F that may not have been enough. Any ideas of what to do with a useless block? Somehow I can't seem to justify loading and transporting it for the 5-6 dollars I will get at the scrap yard.
Bill
>sometime? Usually the blocks break out in the lifter
>valley.
>
>Barry
Yeah, we had a heck of a winter, and while my coolant tested at -20F that may not have been enough. Any ideas of what to do with a useless block? Somehow I can't seem to justify loading and transporting it for the 5-6 dollars I will get at the scrap yard.
Bill
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Well, I will be picking up a block at a salvage yard this Saturday. Any advice other than to get a guarantee against cracks and to make sure it's not already bored .060 over?
Bill
Bill
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From: Brea CA
Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Just off the top of my head I would say make sure you get the original main caps with it. You don’t want the hassle and expense of align-boring. Also be sure it has the 4-bolt motor mounts on each side of the block.
Barry
Barry
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
>Just off the top of my head I would say make sure you get
>the original main caps with it. You don’t want the hassle
>and expense of align-boring. Also be sure it has the 4-bolt
>motor mounts on each side of the block.
>
>Barry
Great advice, thank you very much!
>the original main caps with it. You don’t want the hassle
>and expense of align-boring. Also be sure it has the 4-bolt
>motor mounts on each side of the block.
>
>Barry
Great advice, thank you very much!
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Grrrrr!!!!! Cracked Block
Time for plan B. The block I located is bored .080 over. I found a 360 at another salvage yard in a '73, but it has two hole motor mounts. Could someone clue me in on the whole two-hole versus four-hole thing?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks,
Bill