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Hello everybody im just swining by from the bronco II forums because I am currently gather peices to drop a 302 in my BII. i was hoping to get some advice as to which year of 302 I should go for. I want it to be carbed thats for sure. Also I will not be seeking huge hp since my Bronco is not a huge lead weight. I going to stick with a 2bbl motorcraft 2150 carb because I have seen them on the trails and they do not stall out even on very steep grades. I have decided to do long tube headers and custom 2.5 exaust all the way back with a high flow cat and maybe even dual pipes. the cat is to pass emissions here in Vancouver. I was hoping for around 170-200hp. So which year is best and are my hp figures attainable with a 2 bbl carb?
Go for a 5.0 SEFI dude, thats my opinion. If you insist on old school, still go for a late model 5.0 block. Idealy one from an exploder if you can find one. (wrecked V8 exploders are harder to come by) They have a high torque roller cam, one piece rear seal, and GT40/GT40P heads depending on year.(GT40P heads are better in stock form but have angled spark plugs and limit headers) Your HP numbers are very attainable, with proper carb work you'll be over. Bonus if you can find a complete engine, then sell the efi equipment to pretty much anybody in the fullsize bronco/truck forums, they'll be fighting over it. I'm looking for a set of GT40Ps if you come across any!
So I can convert an EFI 5.0 to a carb 5.0 without a problem. Don't get me wrong I love EFI and it is very reliable, I'm just not in the mood to run all new high pressure fuel lines on my truck. What am I looking at for a good price on one of these later 5.0 engines? Is 500$ in the right ball park?
shouldnt have a problem. FYI, I havent had older and late model heads side x side but Ive heard the ports can be off a bit so make sure your heads and intake are compatible. most late model heads have emissions ports on the back but they can just be blocked off. Throttle body injection is a good way to go as well, they run low pressure. Not sure on prices, depends on what you get (short block/long block/complete) just call some wreckers and ask.
Just look for an HO out of a mustang or mark 7, there is a ton of those floating around and you know what your getting with one of those engines, you shouldnt have any problem with torque with the HO cam.
shouldnt have a problem. FYI, I havent had older and late model heads side x side but Ive heard the ports can be off a bit so make sure your heads and intake are compatible. most late model heads have emissions ports on the back but they can just be blocked off. Throttle body injection is a good way to go as well, they run low pressure. Not sure on prices, depends on what you get (short block/long block/complete) just call some wreckers and ask.
There's nothing different about the ports to cause intake fitment problems. They're completely interchangeable from carb to EFI.
the mountaineer had the gt40 intake and heads with the roller cam if you spend the money to get one of those then you should stay fuel injected if you you want carb then you will need an intake from the carb motors and the distibutor from one also
If you get a roller motor and use a carb, you will need a distributor from a 85 Mustang GT with a 5-speed. This will have the right cam gear for the roller cam and will have vacuum advance and be compatable with the Durasprk II ignition. Or you could go with a stand alone HEI unit like I did in my 63 F100 from Performance Distributors. Their DUI is a nice 1 wire set-up that is precurved for your application.
If you get a roller motor and use a carb, you will need a distributor from a 85 Mustang GT with a 5-speed.
These are available from your local parts house as reman units. Advance Auto sells em for about $55 ($75 without a core, any distributor core will do, it doesn't have to be the exact one)
There's nothing different about the ports to cause intake fitment problems. They're completely interchangeable from carb to EFI.
I know their interchangable, port size and location is what i was refering to. I heard early and late models can be off a bit from each other. nothing a grinder cant fix though
Baddad, that's a good tip for a rebuilt distributor. It's not too much more than the cost of the steel distributor gear, and presumably you get new advance springs etc. Come to think of it, $55 must be less than the cost of a new steel gear and a new vacuum advance unit. Is Advance Auto quality OK? I have found a lot of other parts store items poor quality in recent years, so lousy that I had to return them.
So I can convert an EFI 5.0 to a carb 5.0 without a problem. Don't get me wrong I love EFI and it is very reliable, I'm just not in the mood to run all new high pressure fuel lines on my truck. What am I looking at for a good price on one of these later 5.0 engines? Is 500$ in the right ball park?
Yup, they will run with a carb also. Just remember the tip about the dist gear. Few other things is depending what its going in, you might have to plug the inblock dip stick hole. and also about 1982, the balance on the motor changed, so if its a early app, you may need to swap to a later flywheel/flexplate