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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rear Yoke nut

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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:16 PM
  #1  
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Rear Yoke nut

Hello,

I am trying to get the rear yoke nut off to replace the pinion seal. I've read a lot of posts on the subject and can not find my answer... is it a left hand thread or is just a tight SOB?? I tried for two hours using every ounce of strength I had and can not make it budge. I've sprayed PB blaster on it for the better part of a week hoping when the time came it would loosen but I was wrong. I have a pipe wrench on the yoke, and it is jammed against the bed floor. Any ideas.

Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Do you have a friend with a really good impact wrench? That's the best way to get that thing loose.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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This may not sound kosher, but when I took mine off, I was down to the last straw. I held the yoke with a wrench like you are and on the nut had a socket and ratchet. I have a 2-3 pound rubber mallet and struck the ratchet with quick hard blows. After about ten strikes, it loosened up.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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i was unable to budge mine until i held the pinion flange steady with a big-a$$ pipe wrench and then loosened the pinion nut with a large breaker bar and a 1/2" socket. normal threads.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Sounds like the consensus from this highly esteemed group is... you need to get mid-evil on that bad-boy
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I'll get the pig off tomorrow. I pulled so hard tonight that I thought I was going to pull the truck off the jackstands with me under it! Tomorrow, impact wrench, piece of pipe or the torch!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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To remove mine, I took a long piece of flat bar and drilled two holes along the edge, placed two bolts into the flange. I had to grind a bit off the edge of the bar to make room for the socket that was in my longest breaker bar. Pulling the two bars together worked good for me. You could place the end of the flat bar on the ground and press down on the breaker bar to turn the nut.
...Terry '52 F1
ps. I think I slipped a long pipe over my breaker bar, 'grunt' 'grunt' more leverage!
 

Last edited by Overkill-F1; Sep 14, 2007 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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I have had luck with putting the truck on the ground (tires) putting a bar on the breaker long enough to lay on the ground and then pushing the truck itself using the weight of the truck and your leverage advantage to help bust it lose..
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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Got it off today using an impact wrench. Got the seal replaced and no leaks.
YIPEE.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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something to make in your spare time, lol.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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Havi,
I'm lookin....
Now tell me what zackly I'm lookin at....

I'm sure I could use it, if I knew how.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:47 PM
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does this work? slide a breaker bar inside the tube to push against the floor. the other end bolts into where the u-bolts would go, and the big 1/2" drive ratchet goes on the nut thru the center hole.
 
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Last edited by havi; Sep 14, 2007 at 08:50 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Havi,

That looks like it would work to me, where were you yesterday???
Are you selling them? Every Ford guy needs one.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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Havi!! You have too much time on your hands!. My flat bar took 15 min to drill and grind a notch for the socket. It only uses two bolts. It looks like you spent an afternoon making that tool! BUT, it does look good and multipurpose I bet!
...Terry
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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well, from here on out, the plasma table at work will do it. Programmed with various bolt hole patterns. And the tube will be 1/4" wall dom with a 1 3/4" O.D. scrapstock, of course.

From work, I also have 1/4" flatbar remnants that are 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" right triangles.....great for gussets.
 

Last edited by havi; Sep 14, 2007 at 09:41 PM.
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