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I am trying to get the rear yoke nut off to replace the pinion seal. I've read a lot of posts on the subject and can not find my answer... is it a left hand thread or is just a tight SOB?? I tried for two hours using every ounce of strength I had and can not make it budge. I've sprayed PB blaster on it for the better part of a week hoping when the time came it would loosen but I was wrong. I have a pipe wrench on the yoke, and it is jammed against the bed floor. Any ideas.
This may not sound kosher, but when I took mine off, I was down to the last straw. I held the yoke with a wrench like you are and on the nut had a socket and ratchet. I have a 2-3 pound rubber mallet and struck the ratchet with quick hard blows. After about ten strikes, it loosened up.
i was unable to budge mine until i held the pinion flange steady with a big-a$$ pipe wrench and then loosened the pinion nut with a large breaker bar and a 1/2" socket. normal threads.
Thanks for the replies. I'll get the pig off tomorrow. I pulled so hard tonight that I thought I was going to pull the truck off the jackstands with me under it! Tomorrow, impact wrench, piece of pipe or the torch!
To remove mine, I took a long piece of flat bar and drilled two holes along the edge, placed two bolts into the flange. I had to grind a bit off the edge of the bar to make room for the socket that was in my longest breaker bar. Pulling the two bars together worked good for me. You could place the end of the flat bar on the ground and press down on the breaker bar to turn the nut.
...Terry '52 F1
ps. I think I slipped a long pipe over my breaker bar, 'grunt' 'grunt' more leverage!
Last edited by Overkill-F1; Sep 14, 2007 at 12:35 AM.
I have had luck with putting the truck on the ground (tires) putting a bar on the breaker long enough to lay on the ground and then pushing the truck itself using the weight of the truck and your leverage advantage to help bust it lose..
does this work? slide a breaker bar inside the tube to push against the floor. the other end bolts into where the u-bolts would go, and the big 1/2" drive ratchet goes on the nut thru the center hole.
Havi!! You have too much time on your hands!. My flat bar took 15 min to drill and grind a notch for the socket. It only uses two bolts. It looks like you spent an afternoon making that tool! BUT, it does look good and multipurpose I bet!
...Terry
well, from here on out, the plasma table at work will do it. Programmed with various bolt hole patterns. And the tube will be 1/4" wall dom with a 1 3/4" O.D. scrapstock, of course.
From work, I also have 1/4" flatbar remnants that are 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" right triangles.....great for gussets.
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