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Alright guys, my injectors are on the way, but i have a couple questions for the reinstall.
I didn't take my oil galley plugs out. Unfortunatly I can't get the connectors undone so I can remove the valve cover gasket. So the "rails" i guess, have been draining for two weeks now as I await the new sticks. So I go the clean the oil/fuel out of the bores.
So my plan is to put the injectors back in but remove the last 2 glowplugs in each head and crank her over a couple of times until the oil/fuel mixture comes out (with the maxi #9 fuse removed).
Then reinstall the glowplugs and begin the process of bleeding the oil back in the lines.
Does this sound like a good plan?
Also, how do i get the copper washer out of the bore? I forgot to check if all of them stayed on the injector.
well, if you sent the cores back, id call the company to check on the presence of the copper orings. if not, id get ahold of a pick set with a curved tip and try to fish them out that way. tj gave me the great idea when i did my injectors to pull the oil/fuel out with one of those giant turkey injectors (looks like a big syringe with a long needle on it). that seemed like a good idea, but i sacrificed the old shop vaccuum with a short piece of 1/4"id tubing taped to the hose. that really did the trick! best of luck.
if you can get a good angle on the bore and a good flashlight you'll be fine. if you have the finances and/or the inclination, buy a borescope for rifles. that will allow you to get a look at alot of things not normally visible. its basically a little lighted scope on a long flexible tip. the tip is inserted into anything you want to look at (ie. bore, cylinder, turbo, exhaust). not sure on the price, and a slightly outlandish idea, but i suppose itd work!
I can't believe that I overlooked that before I sent them away. I guess I will have to inspect each bore and fish them out with a pick set. Hopefully those last bores by the firewall won't be too much of a pain.
Farm69, question: Did you remove the rear most injector on each head first? If so then 98% of your fuel and oil will be in the those two cylinders.
As far as removing only the last two glow plugs....unless I knew for sure that there was no fuel/oil in the other cylinders I'd pull every glow plug. Make sure that you have a heavey towel over the heads when you crank it over or your truck will get a fuel/oil bath under the hood, on the windshield and fenders.
On edit: use a small mirror to look into the injector cups on the rear cylinders. You may need two mirrors, one to look in an the other to shine the light on to reflect it into the injector cup.
Last edited by plowhand; Sep 13, 2007 at 06:27 PM.
Reason: addition
Crank it over several times by hand before you put the injectors back in. That's all you have to do. The cylinders will be clear by the third compression stroke. No need for turkey basters or anything else.
If the washers are still in the cups you'll be able to see them. Just hook them with a scribe and they'll come right out.....if they are there.
How in the world did you get the injectors out without removing the vc gasket? Also, if you can't remove the, then they are most likley melted. You can get new connectors and pins at ford for like 32 bucks. It would be well worth the time.
I didn't pull those little plugs or pull the valve cover gaskets either. I unplugged all injectors, glow plugs, and all 4 harness legs. I tried a battery syringe with a piece of tubing on it to suck out the fuel/oil, but didn't get much out. You should be able to find those copper washers if they are down in the sleeves, you probably want to take a look down in there anyway and wipe them out to make sure they are clean before you reinstall the injectors. I dunked each one in clean oil before sliding it in. With all glow plugs out, I roll the crank by hand a few revolutions. It's amazing how much will squirt out if you don't put the valve covers back on. Then jump the starter solonoid on the passenger fender with a screwdriver to blow out the rest. Fill up the HPOP, replace plug, and then jump the starter solonoid again. Then crack open one of the big plugs on the heads, you'll hear the air come out and oil moving. Repeat a few times until the hpop stays full. Then reconnect everything and it should start right up. You can leave the valve covers off to verify that all your new injectors are pumping oil.
There are a couple big brass colored hex head plugs on each head that point inward toward the valley, I can't remember what size, but probably something around 5/8". Cracking one on each side seems to help get the air out. I did it until no air came out and the hpop stayed full. When I tried to start it for the first time it only had to crank for a second or two.