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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Body Cart

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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Body Cart

I'm hoping to get my 55 Panel in the garage for the winter and am seriously looking at removing the body from the frame. I'd like to weld up a cart (1 1/2" or 2" squate tube) for the body to move it around and raise it up off the floor to work on it. Has anyone done this and would be willing to share some dimensions or pix? Size of the cart isn't a problem, I was hoping for dimensions between body mount holes that might save some time/effort. Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Will take the front clip off along with the doors. I assume I will need to weld bracing in the door openings. Any thing else I should look out for? I've never done this and could use all the help I can get. Been trying to sell at least one of my T-Birds to finance the Panel. No luck so far. But I still want to try to start on the 55.

Thanks for all the info on this board.

Jeff from northern Wisconsin
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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I built a cart from 2 x 6 for the cab; with 4" wheels. I built it 1 1/2" lower than the frame; used 2 x 4" from frame to cart to "unload the cab. Was able move cab on / off frame without help.I even welded without fires

tom
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Don't know anyone who has made a cart for a panel body. If the floor is solid you shouldn't need to add any additional bracing just because you took the doors off, the doors are not structural. If you plan on replacing the floor or chopping the top, then you should add some structural bracing before removing the body from the frame.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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i have seen a couple of guys who bought sets of wheel dollies and welded jack stands to them and then tube between the four, kind of a rig job, but pretty easy, cheap, and reusable
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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I just used 4 x 4 wood post with casters on the bottom. Put a caster on the ends of each post and one in the middle. I would like to have it higher, but I am not working on the body yet. Starting with the frame. It will roll anywhere in the shop. I even left the post long on the ends to pick it up with straps and hoist. Then you can put stands under it and roll the frame back in.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I have thought about making it in wood, I'm certainly better in wood than metal anyway. I'm probably overthinking the whole thing. Should follow the KISS principle.

Jeff
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ttpenman
Should follow the KISS principle.

Jeff
Yep!

I too made mine with 2x6's and 4-4" caster wheels.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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This may not work as well on a panel as a truck cab, but just take a junk 53-56 frame and cut it down as much as you need. Then you don't have to worry about alighning mounts. Then weld legs as high as you need and casters.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Or you could build something like this and add caster wheels to it so you can move it. It also rotates 360* for work on the underside.

 
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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mechmagcn -- now that's a cool idea for working on a cab!! I always loved the idea of a rotisserie (sp?) for working on a vehicle. My knees are shot which makes working down low tough. On a stand like that I can worked standing or on a stool. I wonder if I could mount a frame to the rear door opening of the panel and the firewall to make mounts like you did and make the body spin. Sure is something to think about. Wonder how much the body alone weighs?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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I've also seen body stands that had 1/2 hoops on each side so you could roll the body on it's side to work underneath.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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Fatfenders56 has a picture in his gallery of the roll-over frame like the one Ax mentions. Probably could be adapted to work with a panel but you might need a couple gorillas to roll it.
 
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