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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

carb issues still....

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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 12:56 AM
  #1  
51merc's Avatar
51merc
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From: medicine hat, ab
carb issues still....

So, getting the list of things to do shortened with the help of you guys here...really appreciate it.
Seems Im able to do carb kits in 4 bbls, but the simple 2 bbls are giving me grief ive never had before! Can't get this thing to stop leaking!! I can tell it was leaking from the previous owner due to the discoloring on the intake...was hoping a carb kit would help...
One thing im really troubled/confused/perplexed on is the valve on the inside of the float bowl! The one i took out has a shaft with a spring on it that moves up and down. The carb kit comes with 2 similar valves but difference in appearance from the one that i have! I have seen one of the valves in pictures on the outside of the carbs...and the instructions aren't clear enough to give me any clues! Confuse anyone yet? Need an expert to tell me which one actually to use?? A pic would be incredible...im thinking that if im using the wrong valve, it will leak the gas from the bowl and flow out of the base gasket which is what im experiencing!!! damn, now ive confused myself.
gonna sleep on this one.
cheers
Rick
 
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 07:41 AM
  #2  
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
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From: NM
Go here for a manual that is for a very similar carb:

http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H2110-1957/

The power valve and economizer valve look very similar, but if you look at the stems of them, one works opposite of the other. The gasket on the power valve is the key to preventing leakage overnight (bowl is dry, takes a long time cranking to start the engine). Also the surfaces of the bowl assembly where it joins the cast iron throttle section. If the power valve sticks out too far from the bowl assembly, and the dome hits the throttle section, but someone tightens the screws, the bowl surface can become warped and no amount of tightening will help. Check for clearance by assembling without a gasket; if the two surfaces don't come together without interference, the p.v. gasket may be too thick or it's the wrong kind.

Anyway, if your read thru this manual thoroughly, you'll know everything there is to know about these carbs! You can print off each page or right-click and save them to your puter, pretty tedious but it's free...
 

Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Sep 9, 2007 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 10:17 AM
  #3  
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51merc
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From: medicine hat, ab
Ross...thanks for the link and the valve tips! Slept on the situation and am going to try it all again with a different carb that i have taken apart and left in varsal overnite. Like i said, have done this a lot before with zero issues, so im hoping the clarification will help.
My carb does not have the spark control valve and the one of two carb kits that i have only has one valve in it...so going to use that one for the power enrichment valve.
thanks again...
cheers
Rick
 
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 10:31 AM
  #4  
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
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If it's any consolation I have had several carbs for my truck apart multiple times, trying to get a good combination. For good low speed performance and economy, the key is to get and keep the passages that lead to the venturis clean. There are emulsion tubes that unscrew from the venturi boosters that are like a tube-within-a-tube, and varnish can plug the very small holes in the tubes and pack the space between. Run a copper wire around in there and soak-soak-soak!
 
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #5  
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I don't know anything about Mercurys, but if it has the same carburetor as the Ford 239, you can buy a NOS carburetor and kiss your problems good-bye.
 
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