Frame paint options....
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Spokane USA
Frame paint options....
Ok .... decision time. My F1 Frame is done and the rust and yuk is all gone via a full blasting treatment, and now I'm ready to lay on some nice black on it. I'm confused though as to what is really the best way to go these days. I used to just use some good enamel after some decent primer, but there are so many options now, I am not sure which to go with. I know about Zero Rust as a good means to prevent future rust, but with the condition of the frame being now so clean, I'm wondering if maybe a good epoxy primer, and then some good single stage heavy body black would be the best.
It would be great to hear how others have handled this phase and what has been the results with various different materials.
Thanks
Bob in Spokane
It would be great to hear how others have handled this phase and what has been the results with various different materials.
Thanks
Bob in Spokane
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Colonsay Sk. Canada
I always use a paint/primer called Por 15. Strong as nails. looks decent too.
It kinda pricy 50 bucks for a quart. (if memory correct)
But man if you need proof. The first time I used it didn't wear gloves. My hands were black for a week then I started to use a nail clipper to take of a laer of skin. LOL
It kinda pricy 50 bucks for a quart. (if memory correct)
But man if you need proof. The first time I used it didn't wear gloves. My hands were black for a week then I started to use a nail clipper to take of a laer of skin. LOL
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I would go with a rust encapsulator like POR-15 or Rust Bullet. These are epoxy paints, there rust encapsulators. I used POR-15 on the top and bottom of my F-4's cab floor. The stuff is tough a iron. I couldn't scrap it off with a claw hammer. It's a mess to use, like Snowking said, you can't get the stuff off of your skin, you have to let it wear off. Next time I am going to try Rust Doctor, it's water based and cleans up with water. A member of this board used it and recommended it to me a few years back.
Do a search on "rust encapsulator" on this forum and you should find some helpful information.
Do a search on "rust encapsulator" on this forum and you should find some helpful information.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
I`ve used black Zero Rust over my 56 M100`s sandblasted frame. It goes on nicely with a cheap spray gun and seems to stick very well with a nice semi-gloss sheen.
This was only earlier this year so I have no idea of how well it will stand up over time.
This was only earlier this year so I have no idea of how well it will stand up over time.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,886
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
One more thing about POR-15, it's not only expensive but you can't paint directly over it. You have to buy a binder made by POR-15, which isn't cheap, before you can paint over it. I think most of the other encapsulator products you can paint right over. Also, all of the encapsulator products will not hold up under the UV of the sun and must be topcoated. On the frame, under the truck this probably doesn't matter much because the frame is out of direct sunlight.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
A friend of mine used por- 15 on his sandblasted frame. I know he spent most of the day painting it because he top coated it in big bird yellow. He was painting well into late evening so he didn't have to buy the binder that bobj49f2 mentioned. I think that there is about a 6 hr window after the por15 sets up.
John
John
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: south-central PA
i have friend that just used the POR products on his sand plasted frame, he used thier primer and topcoat. looks great, but is alittle to glossy for my taste. also i know the original POR-15 topcoat will slowly oxidize if left in the sunlight.
I'm using the "rust encasplulator" from eastwood products on my frame, it was not blasted, just flap brushed and wire wheeled. then i'm going to use their "extreme chassis satin black" says it's 60 to 70% gloss. i've never used it before, but looks how i want. and is designed to got with thier primer on rusty frames.
i just figure one should make sure the primer and topcoat are compatible and applied on a good day, meaning hot and low humidity....... my experience is this can really make a big difference.
I'm using the "rust encasplulator" from eastwood products on my frame, it was not blasted, just flap brushed and wire wheeled. then i'm going to use their "extreme chassis satin black" says it's 60 to 70% gloss. i've never used it before, but looks how i want. and is designed to got with thier primer on rusty frames.
i just figure one should make sure the primer and topcoat are compatible and applied on a good day, meaning hot and low humidity....... my experience is this can really make a big difference.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Woodruff, SC
I've been using a product called Ospho for a few years now with good results. It's a phosphoric acid based rust encapsulator that runs about 25 bucks, The local Sherman Willians has it here. After sandblasting you paint on with a brush and let set up overnight then paint.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Moro Bay, AR
If I had it to do over again, I would use one of the encapsulators. I sandblasted my frame and primed with self-etching primer, then sprayed Nason chassis black paint. This paint scratches very easily, and I don't think it will hold up well to daily driving.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Originally Posted by mechmagcn
I sandblasted my frame and primed with self-etching primer, then sprayed Nason chassis black paint. This paint scratches very easily, and I don't think it will hold up well to daily driving.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Weston-super-Mare (UK)
I'm using por15 right now to do this exact job - you can paint over it if you use the right primer. Alternatively, if you want it to stay black but don't want to worry about it fading they also do a product called blackcote, which you can paint straight over cured por15 and isn't affected by UV light.
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From: Spokane USA
Wow..... lots to think about here. As usual the folk on this forum have the info. It would be still interesting to hear from those that have used other products too. It's all good..............
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