Green Grease?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Dracut, Massachusetts
Green Grease?
Anyone out there use green grease, the stuff they use on speed tv? is the cost justified? its like 8 bucks for a tube of the green stuff, and 2 bucks for the stuff ive used for years. what are some of your thoughts?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Amongst others, marine grease may often be green. I did have some turquoise grease (Slick50, non-marine) and it wasn't much better than the regular stuff. Depending on the use you may need different greases, but for automotive use, one usually want a grease with moly in it. Unless they can show with some hard data that it is really better than the regular stuff, I wouldn't buy it for $8.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
To get the most benifit from the moly, it needs to be at least 3%. Some have moly but not enough to do much good. Also moly doesn't play well with bronze bushings so avoid using it on bronze alloy bushings.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Here are two greases that I like and use the most: Delo blue #2, and Hydrotex #2 white. Just try washing them off your hands! Both contain a "tacky" element and have given good service in wheel bearings, trailers, 5th wheels and drive lines.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
Originally Posted by kotzy
stormrider,please explain the moly deal with bronze bushings. Never heard that before, would like a little insight. Thanks. kotzy
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Storm Thanks that makes sense and may be fact. I was told the particals are so small and that is what made it suspendable in gear oils. We used it in manual gear boxes with bronze bearings on the counter shafts, and we also greased chassis parts with moly grease. This is a new slant I never heard before, or someone came up with an alternative and trying to sell it. Anyway, when everyone thinks the same no one thinks much, you have given me something to ponder. Thanks again. kotzy
Last edited by kotzy; Sep 21, 2007 at 05:31 PM.
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From: SW Va
Moly loaded lubes in gear boxes with (yellow metal) bronze gears or bearings isn't rcommended either.
So we need to be careful of the lube recipe we use on ALL of our equiptment.
Moly under heat & pressure, doesn't react well with yellow metals, so don't use a moly loaded lube on such.
This after I talked to a lube engineer at Chevron, about a straight weight lube for my old JC Penny tillers gear box, which specified a straight weight 140 gear lube, for it's bronze worm gear & I couldn't find a small contaner of straight weight GL-1 lube anywhere!!!!
He recommended their straight weight 460 lube, but I can't find it in anything less than a 60 gallon drum!!!!! lol
Anyway we need to be mindful of the lube specfications our manufacturers affix to our machinery, as those specifications aren't applied willynilly & without forethought.
So if we aren't lube engineers we'd be well advised to follow the specified lube call-outs for our machinery, lest we shoot ourselves in the foot, trying to improve, or re-engineer our lubrication needs, without ALL the facts!!!!! lol
So we need to be careful of the lube recipe we use on ALL of our equiptment.
Moly under heat & pressure, doesn't react well with yellow metals, so don't use a moly loaded lube on such.
This after I talked to a lube engineer at Chevron, about a straight weight lube for my old JC Penny tillers gear box, which specified a straight weight 140 gear lube, for it's bronze worm gear & I couldn't find a small contaner of straight weight GL-1 lube anywhere!!!!
He recommended their straight weight 460 lube, but I can't find it in anything less than a 60 gallon drum!!!!! lol
Anyway we need to be mindful of the lube specfications our manufacturers affix to our machinery, as those specifications aren't applied willynilly & without forethought.
So if we aren't lube engineers we'd be well advised to follow the specified lube call-outs for our machinery, lest we shoot ourselves in the foot, trying to improve, or re-engineer our lubrication needs, without ALL the facts!!!!! lol
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