I am currently looking at a 1994 F350 with the Turbo Diesel 7.3 (non-powerstroke I believe) and manual transmission.

For someone who has never owned a diesel before, what are the types of things I need to get used to as an owner? From maintenance to everyday driving?

I am not going to be doing a lot of pulling, just carrying the family and a bunch of gear, but I like the diesel for it's reliability and a trailer may be in the future.

I have heard that the maintenance costs of a diesel can eat you alive.....is this true? (i.e. oil/filter changes, air filter changes, fuel injectors, injection pumps etc.)

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Chris

 

I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 year around on mine, change oil & filter every 5000 miles. Antifreeze should be a good brand like Zerox, Peak, tested once a year for PH and anti-electrolysis chemical concentration. I get my test strips for free at the local New Holland dealer, NAPA dealer carries them. Put additive in if needed. Antifreeze changed out every 36000 miles, just like a car, and flushed, longer periods are possible if you use the extended cycle stuff but it cost more. Use distilled water when mixing coolant and DO NOT use Prestone coolant even in your car. Block heater makes for faster warmups and easier starts in cold weather, but you probably don't need it unless below -15 degrees f. I have mine on a time clock so it turns on 3 hours prior to my needing the truck. Tirers will wear a little faster on the rear because of all the torgue, rotate once a year so they wear out at the same time. Use a combination additive to your fuel like Stanadyne performance Formula and it will keep the injectors clean, boost cetane(improves fuel mileage) and lubricates the injectors. If you are not driving a daily or are buying fuel in bulk, you should add biocide to the fuel once or twice a year, diesel fuel, especially the new ultra low sulfur grows bugs easily. At oil change time make sure the oil filter is prefilled with the oil you are using. Most normal maintenance on these is easy and you can do yourself.

 

Forgive me, but could you please explain testing the coolant for pH and anti-electrolysis chemical concentration? Do you add the additive for cavitation?

Thanks,
Chris

 

I work on power boilers but the chemistry principles are the same. Hot water is less agressive if the ph is between 8 & 10. Cavitation is caused by air or steam bubbles collapsing as they pass pump impellers and orifices, normally your cooling system is under pressure which prevents steam and once you have thermally cycled it after being open there should not be any appreciable amount of air bubbles left in it. Electrolysis is a chemical removing of material and occurs usually where a small voltage develops like around dissimilar metals, like steel sleeves and a cast iron block and is speeded up with flow. The additive package in your better coolants is designed to keep the PH above 8 and prevent electrolysis,prevent corrosion and lubricate your water pump bearings. THIS ADDITIVE PACKAGE IS CONSIDERED A CONSUMABLE and needs checked once every year or 12,000 miles. Diesels require higher amounts of certain additives then cars and the test strips are designed to specifically test those items. Typical strips are 2" long and have a chemical coating on both ends. One end test coolant ph and the other test for the anti electroysis portion of the additive package. You dip both ends and then compare to a color chart to see if both are in range. put additive in if out of range to the low side. Every three years or 36000 miles on normal antifreeze you should drain, flush and replace it. Always use distilled water when mixing your antifreeze. The most common mineral in water is calcium and when heated calcium comes out of solution and plates out, especially in radiator & heater cores. distilled water is mineral free, don't put in what hurts you. Also Prestone antifreeze doesn't have much of an additive package to protect your cooling system, they used to use an oil in it that causes any corrosion (rust particles) to clump together and plug your heater & radiator cores. GM has been using Prestone out of the factory so it is best to dump & flush it as soon as possible on them and put in some good stuff like Zerox or Peak.

 

Thank you for the excellent description. I now understand the mechanism.

Much appreciated,
Chris

 

stormyrider,

I interviewed the owner of the 94 F-350 this evening and he told me that he has been running Prestone in the truck only. The truck has 169000 on the odometer, and they bought it four years ago with 160000. I believe the previous owner also only used Prestone (not certain, didn't ask).

How much of a problem is this?

Should I show up with the anti-freeze tester?

Thoughts?

Chris

 

Stormyrider that is an excellent education there.
But I think that the word "Prestone" needs to be changed to "Dex-cool".

 

Why are you looking at something so old?

 

Extremely limited on funds.

 

I would show up with an anti-freeze tester. While some anti-freeze is better than others, with an anti-freeze tester, you will know if they used the proper additives to keep the PH where it's suppose to be.

 

I would get the test strips and check it to see if it has the proper additives in it. Also be prepared with the Prestone to need to clean the heater and radiator cores. This is a common problem with that brand. That mileage isn't a big concern on the engine unless they have not been maintaining the additive package and that is an area that in the past Prestone has been weak at.

 

stormyrider,

Sounds good, I'll take the strips with me when I show up to test-drive the truck.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

Separate question,

The stock air-filter is in place and the previous owner before the current owner supposedly took meticulous maintenance records of the truck. I was told to be carfeful about any aftermarket filter on the truck because it can damage the turbo and the turbos are PRICEY!!

Please advise,
Chris

 

The amount and size of particulate getting through is what can cause cause damage. Any oil coated filter has a problem with the turbo pulling the oil coating off and then the filtering decreases considerable. K & N is one that uses an oil coated filter and I would avoid. Also you need to consider where the air is taken from. On diesels cooler air is better, you don't want a filter that draws from inside the engine compartment as that is hot air and cost you power. At the request of the Military Ford has a redesigned air intake on the market that is much improved and is competitive with the aftermarket systems in performance. It is called the AIS intake, I got mine from a Ford dealer for $198.00 plus UPS. It also solves the PITA on access to the drivers side battery that the original setup had. THe other thing that needs done is where the air intake snokel inlet is , it is against a plastic bulkhead behaind the grill withput any clearance. Cutout the area in from of the snorkel and you will breathe a lot better plus be drawing cooler outside air.

 

I am currently trying to choose between an F350 that has a 460 5-speed and the IDI 7.3 turbo and a 5-speed. Both crew cabs and 4x4.

What should be the determining factor?

Is maintenance the same on both? Cost of parts?

Any insight is greatly helpful,

Thanks,
Chris