Front end options
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Kershaw, South Carolina
Front end options
I was planning on going with a IFS on the 1950 f-1, but while talking with my dad over the weekend, I may just keep the straight axle. This truck is being re-done for my son and will be his first truck(he is 10 now). My question is what are the advantages and disadvantages of both? I just need some direction. He does not want the truck lowered.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
If it will be an occasional driver with little exposure to traffic and you want to keep that truck feel then there's nothing wrong with the original straight axle. However, if the truck will be driven daily or in heavy traffic or long distances, then the IFS would be better. The IFS will improve handling, braking, steering, and ride comfort. However, any IFS will lower the truck 2-3 inches or more. My guess is that when he's ready to drive your son will appreciate the IFS... 
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,765
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From: Kalispell, MT
You can always change it later..............
I'm one of the exceptions - I prefer the straight axle. My 48 is a daily driver and I think the IFS improvements that some guys count on are a bit over-done. But it mindset does sell a lot of aftermarket parts. IMHO of course.
I'm one of the exceptions - I prefer the straight axle. My 48 is a daily driver and I think the IFS improvements that some guys count on are a bit over-done. But it mindset does sell a lot of aftermarket parts. IMHO of course.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The beam axle is a proven commodity still in use today and you already have it. Spring leaves can be eliminated to soften the ride. Weak point is the steering box, a 1920s design that is only good for ~ 30K miles IF well maintained. It is expensive to rebuild and still leaves you with "armstrong" steering. Replacing it with a Toyota 4x4 PS box is a easy and major improvement.
The Jag IFS is practically a bolt in swap on the F1 but will drop the front end a fair bit.
That would be my first choice if the beam needs a total rebuild or you want IFS.
The Jag IFS is practically a bolt in swap on the F1 but will drop the front end a fair bit.
That would be my first choice if the beam needs a total rebuild or you want IFS.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
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From: Wellington, CO
Originally Posted by bsteele52
Do you have to buy a kit for the toyota box or is it a salvage yard item? If so what year toyota?
Get (or make) a mounting bracket and pitman arrm and you are in business!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Kershaw, South Carolina
I just found an article on here that discussed all the options. I think I will go with the manual yota box. My son doesn't want it dropped any(I think that is more of his grandpa than him as the truck was given to him by his grandpa). Has anyone left the beam in with the drum brakes?
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
My beam had disk brakes already installed when I bought it. Drums are perfectly fine if in good shape, and better than disks if you are going to leave them manual since they are self energizing (at least I think they were in 50?) I'd recommend that all the hydraulic components be replaced, Master cylinder (dual chamber even better), wheel cylinders, all hydraulic lines and hoses, don't trust 60 year old parts where safety is involved.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 368
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From: Archer, Fla
I've read through the different options, and did a Volare swap on a 59 I had previously, but a question on the Cordoba swap. In the article it says it's for trucks up to 56, but is it a viable option for the 57-60 trucks? I have a Doba that has already had the front end overhauled.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: I live in Mustang, OK
I wanted to keep the beam under my 50f1 until I noticed it had a bit of a twist in it. I decided to go with the Jag IFS for a better ride. Also went with the Jag IRS. We will see if that was a good choice when it's finished.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,063
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From: Valley Center, California
I agree with AXracer. My last '49 had Drum all around which I rebuilt carefully from the Master to the Shoes. I drove that truck daily for 8 years with no problems. I drag raced it often and slowing was never an issue.
No doubt a Disk system is better. I usually can never say enough about safety and caution but as I get older, I drive slower, and Drums (in perfect repair) work just fine for me.
No doubt a Disk system is better. I usually can never say enough about safety and caution but as I get older, I drive slower, and Drums (in perfect repair) work just fine for me.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Disks are not necessarily better than drums across the board. Disks are less subject to heat fade and less wet sensitive than drums. Drums stop better when cold and require less pedal pressure. Drums are far easier and better to use for emergency braking. Disk "emergency" brakes are really for the most part just parking brakes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Another consideration as to whether to use drums or discs is the engine of choice. Although drums may be adequate for the original engine or a later small displacement stock V8 like a 289/302, any larger engine with more horsepower and possibly weight (although those old flatheads were pretty heavy) would be prudent. It's always best to update your braking system if you increase horsepower to much extent.