I'm looking at a 1970 F250 Camper special. 84,000, 2 wd, 360 motor, 4 spd, nothing else at all. The body and frame are in very good condition needs some seal work (various small oil leaks). Asking $3000.00, offered $2000.00, was rejected. How much is this truck worth ?
Thank you

 

If the Body and Frame are solid (rust/cancer free) and not beaten to high heaven I think $3,000 is a fair price. Even if it had factory air much of the components are worn with age and parts are next to impossibe to find. Many end up converting to better aftermarket systems anyway. Power steering is an easy add on but does not add much to the overall value. Factory disc brakes are nice but hard to find. That does add value, but..... if you convert to later (more abundant to find) F-series Disc Brake systems the parts are cheaper. So I would say his asking price is not too terribly out of line. Besides if you loose out on the opportunity of a great project truck over a $1000 you may be the one who looses!

 

I went to the NADA site and put in your information under classic cars and trucks and here is what it gave me. Seem a bit high to me:

<TABLE style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Wednesday, September 05, 2007
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</TD></TR><TR><TD>Original MSRP: $2,908 <TABLE class=summaryTable id=ctl00_ctl19_tblSummary style="WIDTH: 100%; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 rules=cols border=1><TBODY><TR class=summaryData><TD></TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=middle>Low Retail</TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=middle>Average Retail Value</TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold" align=middle>High Retail</TD></TR><TR class=tableHeader><TD>Base Price</TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD></TD></TR><TR class=summaryData><TD></TD><TD align=right>$7,025</TD><TD align=right>$11,350</TD><TD align=right>$16,400</TD></TR><TR class=tableHeader><TD>Options</TD><TD></TD><TD></TD><TD></TD></TR><TR></TR><TR class=summaryDataAlt><TD>390 V8 Engine</TD><TD align=right>$300</TD><TD align=right>$400</TD><TD align=right>$525</TD></TR><TR class=summaryFooter><TD>TOTAL PRICE</TD><TD align=right>$7,325</TD><TD align=right>$11,750</TD><TD align=right>$16,925</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD>Back to Top
</TD></TR><TR><TD><TABLE class=summaryDefinitions style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; WIDTH: 100%; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 20px"></TR><TR><TD>Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 20px"></TR><TR><TD>High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *. * "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

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Sorry for the double entry.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I will buy the truck, he said he'd go $2500 with out the cap. It's never been driven in the winter, any thoughts on Rhino lining

 

Give him a $2000.00 offer for two, maybe three weeks. Should it not move and he wants to take your offer by an end date you will pay that amount.

I think there are several trucks that you could buy for two grand. Just look around and don't jump at the first one that you see.


John

 

I made him the offer a couple of weeks ago and went back to see him yesterday. The problem is that being in Western New York its hard to find a good used truck without paying the long dollar and with the emission tests on 96 and up buying private party can be risky.

The ol ford is a one owner and hes in his 80's and the truck has never been out in the winter. I was really hoping he'd move on his price a bit more but nope.

 

You rust belt folk do have additional challenges that others do not. I guess it is your decision and if you drive by the the Ford dealer and start looking at window stickers and his price may not be so bad after all.


John

 

Am I reading it correctly in that it's only got 84K original miles? That's pretty low and can certainly go a ways towards making it worth the price of admission. For $2500, in the condition you say it's in, it sounds like a pretty good deal for an East coast truck.

 

Be careful about "Various small oil leaks." I had this condition...and every seal I replaced made the remaining leaks worse! Turns out the rings were gone and the blow-by pressure was what was shoving the oil (and coolant) out of every crevice it could find in the engine.

 

Hate to bring up old threads but I just paid 800$ for my 1970 f-250 camper special. Not the prettiest but runs strong.

 

Never driven in the winter? 84K miles?

Y'all use salt on the roads there, correct?

Find yourself a lube rack, put it up in the air, and inspect that undercarriage. Look for rust in the floor, and around the cab mounts and radiator support. Look for signs of fresh undercoating, that can hide the sins. A magnet is handy too, and never buy anything at night under flourescent lights. White paint can mask simple body dents and bondo. Look carefully down each side for signs of wavy sheetmetal.

Never driven in the winter? What'd he do then, hitch up the sleigh?

84,000 miles? Back then the odometer returns to zero after 99,999.9 miles. It isn't like the odometers of today that go to 999,999.9.

So, only 84K miles? How many times has the odometer been around?

Am I being Sarcastic? Outspoken? You bet...in 50 + of years collecting cars, I've seen many ppl buy stuff, believing every word the sellers sez, only to end up with a pig in a poke.

It's your money, spend it wisely, and don't fall into the "buck fever" mode.

 

Well, it's obviously worth more to him then it is to you.... Value is a relative thing, heck if you go buy the NADA price it's dirt cheap!!! Or, maybe the guy's like me. I set my price, if you buy it, fine, if not, that's fine too. I don't negotiate on the price at all unless there's a trade in involved, then the trade has to be something I really want!!!! Not everyone is into the tire kicking and price haggling. When I sell a car I know what it's worth to me and never have seen a reason to take anything less.

It all comes down to is what your willing to pay equal to what he is willing to take.... The value someone else places on the truck means nothing....

 

Hey, if it was a 1970 Chevy truck for $2500 it would be a parts truck. Pay the $3000 and help us all get the value of our trucks up! By the way, my truck has rhino lining and so did my 1998 Lariat- it is great.

 

I paid $50 for a clean 70 CS with rod kicked 428, now paid $300 for a 70 CS 360 C-6 disc brakes that runs with 94K original miles no odie roll overs. Straight sheet metal used to pull trailers on a private ranch as it hasn't been tagged for 17 years. All I want is the trans, driveshaft, steering pump and box as spare parts and the disc brakes, part out the rest cut up the frame.
Sorrry back to your post.

In your location I would go south on vacation to salt free states having many clean bumpsides running around, buy and drive it home.

Have you checked the rearend for slack, driveshaft spline slider for slack, looked at the ends of the spring leafs where the shorter ones dig into the longer leafs hence many odie rolls, jacked up and checked king pin tie rod and drag link slop? Sealer still in tact in the rain gutters, lift the mats and check for body rot besides as posted above the cab mounts.
Sorry to sound harsh, maybe this is a solid and sound truck and called rare due to not being a rust bucket in your salted state.
Be careful I sense emotion with purchasing this vehicle that I do not have an attachment to.
To add it is better to pay more for a good truck than to repair a used up rust bucket, look what you'll have in the end a nice truck or a money pit rust bucket.
Great find if this is a true low mileage clean truck.