A/C clutch or something else?
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A/C clutch or something else?
Hi, i have a '91 f-150 w/ 302. My a/c was running fine last summer for a while; with only a small leak, but the compressor just stopping working while i was driving one day. I really havn't had the time to fix it since, so im just getting around to trying to find the problem. The freon level is fine, i've also already jumpered the wires at the accumulator and the compressor didn't run. It's getting power at the compressor, so i'm kinda thinking it's probably the clutch?
Also, i'd like to convert it to R-134a cause im sick of paying for R-12, ive read somewhere before to never use an off the shelf conversion kit on a ford; if so, could i piece together my own "kit" with the correct parts?
Thanks for the help!
David
Also, i'd like to convert it to R-134a cause im sick of paying for R-12, ive read somewhere before to never use an off the shelf conversion kit on a ford; if so, could i piece together my own "kit" with the correct parts?
Thanks for the help!
David
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
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From: St Louis
If it has power at the clutch and a good ground, it's the clutch. Check the coil, should be around 3.5 ohms. Replace if open.
Check for excessive gap if the coil is good.
Why bother changing refrigerant if it's not leaking? A conversion won't be as effective.
Steve
Check for excessive gap if the coil is good.
Why bother changing refrigerant if it's not leaking? A conversion won't be as effective.
Steve
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Since your AC Is leaking, and when it has leaked enough that it requires a recharge, Then is a great time to convert it to R134a.
Here are your parts list.
Accumulator
Orifice tube, You can get a VOX, its a variable orifice tube, costs about $30 vs $5 for standard, but gets colder.
R134a Conversion kit from the PARTS STORE, not the soap and underwear store. The kit must have Steel fittings and ester oil. Make sure to remove the valve cores from the R12 fittings on the truck now.
You'll need to replace the O-rings and Spring-locks, The source of your leaks.
Evacuate the system to 28-30" of vacuum, recharge with R134a to 80% of the old R12's charge weight.
Here are your parts list.
Accumulator
Orifice tube, You can get a VOX, its a variable orifice tube, costs about $30 vs $5 for standard, but gets colder.
R134a Conversion kit from the PARTS STORE, not the soap and underwear store. The kit must have Steel fittings and ester oil. Make sure to remove the valve cores from the R12 fittings on the truck now.
You'll need to replace the O-rings and Spring-locks, The source of your leaks.
Evacuate the system to 28-30" of vacuum, recharge with R134a to 80% of the old R12's charge weight.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 592
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As I've now learned. Smack the clutch with a wood handle to see if it engages. If it does, then it's gap. If it doesn't, then it's likely the coil.
If you can find someone with an MVAC license to buy you a 30# bottle of R12 from Ebay, it's actually cheaper than 134a by the can from a store (I paid $8 a pound for my last can).
If you can find someone with an MVAC license to buy you a 30# bottle of R12 from Ebay, it's actually cheaper than 134a by the can from a store (I paid $8 a pound for my last can).
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